Would you trust Ballistol in your .460 or .500?

For anyone who read the article, here is the web store for Lubriplate where you can get less than wholesale quantities of their products. It also beats Mr. Cunningham's attempt to sell you this stuff under his name in tiny quantities at severely inflated prices.

The two best in class products mentioned in the article are:

Oil:
Lubriplate FMO 350-AW

Grease:
Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0

Food Grade Best in Class Grease and Oil for Firearms
 
"trust" ? "baby" ?
I don't understand your concerns.:confused:
Ballistol is the most popular gun lubricant in the world. Less so in the U.S. But it is an excellent product, as are many others.
Just do what works for you.
Too many of these unfounded concerns and you will soon be walking around with a foil helmet on your head.
 
I use Ballistol for different calibers up to .454 casull. If there are more impurities than usual, I use Robla Solo Mil it loosens copper, tombac and lead excellent and it is from the Ballistol factory :)
 
Hoppes #9 bore cleaner....

Id add that the older Hoppes #9 bore cleaner is a good add-on/addition to Ballistol or Gunzilla/Slip2000.
It has a nice scent and no fumes or strong odors.
There's a new format of Hoppes for modern weapons(polymer frames).

CF
 
Ballistol

I use Ballistol on everything I possibly can use it for. From Guns to my Hardwood Floors. The only thing is it does not cleen the burn rings from Revolver Cylinders.
 
[Ballistol]...The only thing is it does not cleen the burn rings from Revolver Cylinders.
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I'd bet it might. I use BreakFree, nothing else. I don't go out of my way to clean the front of the cylinders. But if I apply some at the range, immediately after shooting, I can clean a lot of it off once I get home an hour later, with a patch or a toothbrush. BreakFree contains teflon. I think Ballistol is oil only. Perhaps the continued application of the teflon fills micro pits and voids and keeps the stuff from sticking. I'd have to guess that the pure oil Ballistol would do the same thing, maybe just not stay in the pores as well as the teflon.

But any product with oil in it would likely remove any carbon/lead/copper if you let it try and dissolve the gunk long enough and then applied some physical brushing.


Sgt Lumpy
 
The only thing is it does not cleen the burn rings from Revolver Cylinders.
Click to expand...

I've found nothing that is good at removing those rings short of a sandblaster. I've tried all of the recommended solutions and none work worth a hoot. (Including the lead removal rags which I fail to see how anyone claims work on those rings.)

I leave them be now.
 
I've found nothing that is good at removing those rings short of a sandblaster. I've tried all of the recommended solutions and none work worth a hoot. (Including the lead removal rags which I fail to see how anyone claims work on those rings.)

I leave them be now.
Click to expand...

That has been my experience. I have tried everything and just got used to them being there. I don't think sandblasting after every use would be good for the revolver lol.
 
Flitz on a piece of paper towel will remove those rings from a revolver's cylinder face. I tried it once... I was amazed, ends up looking newer than new... and I will NEVER do it again.

The next time you shoot it, they'll be back. Removing them with Flitz does mean that you are using an abrasive. I did the math. It was a lousy exchange. I learned from the experiment and it's now in my past. ;)
 
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