HistoryJunkie
New member
So nothing should be able to go through the breech plug then? I need to read more 
working on an in-line for a friend
- Thread starter HistoryJunkie
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FrontierGander
New member
Evolution Thunderbolt Tracker Manual
https://traditionsfirearms.com/data...utionThunderboltTracker_manual_1362674539.pdf
https://traditionsfirearms.com/data...utionThunderboltTracker_manual_1362674539.pdf
HistoryJunkie
New member
This gun is so full of problems that I feel bad for it's owner. First, the bolt was stuck shut. Then I got a patch stuck down the barrel. Now that the patch is out, there may be something else obstructing the barrel. Currently waiting on the owner to find the breech plug wrench, which if not found is around $20.
The bolt spring follower is missing(before I took a look at it), and it might need another nipple.
Yay.
The bolt spring follower is missing(before I took a look at it), and it might need another nipple.
Yay.
The breech plug does look funny. I can't tell if it's the retaining spring for the primer popped out of place, of if the primer pocket itself is mashed. Luckily that is an easy fix, and if the rifle was that crudded up wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the plug anyhow. They cost about $15.
I'm kinda confused about the bolt spring follower
once the big cap is unscrewed from the rear of the receiver, there should just be a 3" spring and then the bolt itself.
It can be discouraging at first, abused muzzle loaders in particular. I reworked a Tracker, for a buddy that had never owned or shot a muzzle loader in his life. He got it off craigslist for $75. He brought it to me with the actions "welded shut" with rust and corrosion. The last two inches of the barrel was completely void of rifling and badly pitted. Also the stock was sprayed bright green black and brown in splotches and it had no sights, with one of the sight screw holes filled with JB weld.
It's now a decently finished good working rifle that is more than capable of making solid hits on a white tail out to 75 yards.
Main thing you need to do, is get that sucker all apart into each piece ( 8 parts total counting the stock and trigger group) and start cleaning /replacing worn/broken parts from there.
I'm kinda confused about the bolt spring follower
once the big cap is unscrewed from the rear of the receiver, there should just be a 3" spring and then the bolt itself.
It can be discouraging at first, abused muzzle loaders in particular. I reworked a Tracker, for a buddy that had never owned or shot a muzzle loader in his life. He got it off craigslist for $75. He brought it to me with the actions "welded shut" with rust and corrosion. The last two inches of the barrel was completely void of rifling and badly pitted. Also the stock was sprayed bright green black and brown in splotches and it had no sights, with one of the sight screw holes filled with JB weld.
It's now a decently finished good working rifle that is more than capable of making solid hits on a white tail out to 75 yards.
Main thing you need to do, is get that sucker all apart into each piece ( 8 parts total counting the stock and trigger group) and start cleaning /replacing worn/broken parts from there.
HistoryJunkie
New member
In one of the schematics sent to me it showed there being a spring follower, looks like a metal rod/firing pin. Like I said, don't know a whole lot about ML's. If there isn't supposed to be one, maybe I just things mixed up, and that would actually be good news.
Still just waiting to hear back from the owner about them finding the breech plug wrench. Thanks for all your help so far btw, Berdan.
The schematic I'm referencing is on page 4 or 5.
Still just waiting to hear back from the owner about them finding the breech plug wrench. Thanks for all your help so far btw, Berdan.
The schematic I'm referencing is on page 4 or 5.
HistoryJunkie
New member
Very nice! Words cannot explain how bad I want out of Illinois.
I feel for ya on that one.
I believe the metal rod your seeing that fits inside the bolt spring was for the older rifles. I believe the newer models did away with that and just have a heavier spring with a solid nub on the end of the bolt. But would have to see the gun in person to tell for sure. Traditions may be able to tell you by the serial number.
just to give you an idea of what the breech plug probably looks like on the end inside the barrel...
As you can see the flash hole the spark comes through to ignite the powder is a tiny little sucker.
I believe the metal rod your seeing that fits inside the bolt spring was for the older rifles. I believe the newer models did away with that and just have a heavier spring with a solid nub on the end of the bolt. But would have to see the gun in person to tell for sure. Traditions may be able to tell you by the serial number.
just to give you an idea of what the breech plug probably looks like on the end inside the barrel...
As you can see the flash hole the spark comes through to ignite the powder is a tiny little sucker.
.
Most barrel obstructions, and usually boolit/powder loads, can be cleared from a barrel via the use of a CO2 ball Discharge tool, pressed hard into the rear of the breechplug into the flash hole/channel.
Barring that, you really should concentrate on removing/neutralizing any possible load in the barrel - which can be very dangerous, if not fatal, should it accidently discharge from a tool spark.
If I had it in my hands, I would immerse the entire rear section of the gun (preferrably the entire rifle, laid in a trough) in a deep pail of kerosene (from any Hess gas station or hardware store), pouring the barrel full with it (if upended).
After soaking in the kero for a few days (minimum), any powder inside the load (?) should be wet enough to be safe to fiddle more with.
It's normal to insert a wire into the rear of the breechplug, and have it stop when it hits the internal transition from the (relatively) large primer hole to the much finer flash hole in the front end of the breechplug - BUT, if there's no load or other obstruction, you should be able to see a tiny pinpoint of light through the flash hole.
.
Most barrel obstructions, and usually boolit/powder loads, can be cleared from a barrel via the use of a CO2 ball Discharge tool, pressed hard into the rear of the breechplug into the flash hole/channel.
Barring that, you really should concentrate on removing/neutralizing any possible load in the barrel - which can be very dangerous, if not fatal, should it accidently discharge from a tool spark.
If I had it in my hands, I would immerse the entire rear section of the gun (preferrably the entire rifle, laid in a trough) in a deep pail of kerosene (from any Hess gas station or hardware store), pouring the barrel full with it (if upended).
After soaking in the kero for a few days (minimum), any powder inside the load (?) should be wet enough to be safe to fiddle more with.
It's normal to insert a wire into the rear of the breechplug, and have it stop when it hits the internal transition from the (relatively) large primer hole to the much finer flash hole in the front end of the breechplug - BUT, if there's no load or other obstruction, you should be able to see a tiny pinpoint of light through the flash hole.
.