Working on a jap type 38

I think I've got a mag box that will work just fine.

The bad spot is a gouge about 5 thou deep and only hanf way around the case and its about 1/3rd inch up and gouge is 1/4" tall
 
Who here has done the 6.5x57 conversion? How did it feed? Extraction issues? Mag well issues? I'm starting to seriously consider it. The 6.5x50 chamber has a bad spot. Possibly where the reamer was tweaked a little sideways or something.

Wachtelhund, do you still have the reamer?
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Yes, I still have it. Great round, no feeding problems. .257 Roberts was modeled after it. I let a friend use it last gun season. He dropped his first buck right in its tracks. An 11 pointer, first buck, unbelievable.
 
If I remember correctly, you had a new barrel installed. Was the work done at the same time to the feed area?
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I think you are referring to me. Yes, I had a new barrel put on, no work was done to the feed ramp. But then my gun was a 6.5X.257 Roberts when I got it. I just checked and there doesn't appear to ever having any work done to the feed ramp.
 
Mike, I'll loan you the reamer and Go Gauge. I use 7mm brass necked down then fire formed to 6.5X57. The 6.5X57 case has a shoulder that is .025" longer than the 7mm shoulder. Here are two of my loads:

120gr Hornady A-Max, IMR 4350 44.5gr : MOA load

129gr Hornady Spire Point, H 4831 45.0 or 45.5gr loads, both print clover leaf groups. 45.0 grains is my deer load. Velocity is 2,800 to 2,900 fps for these loads.
 
257 arisaka feeding problem

After I did the scope I and read about the feeding problem I tried mine and It jammed if I put 2 or more in so its back at the gunsmith, I had shot it before but only put 1 in at a time, we will see what he says.
 
You can't just convert a rifle from one caliber to another by running in a chambering reamer and calling the job done. The bolt face might need work, and the extractor. If the shoulders or general shape of the new cartridge differ much from those of the original round, it will probably be necessary to alter the feed rails in the receiver, the magazine box walls, the feed ramp, or the magazine follower. For gunsmiths who have converted many similar guns, like those who reworked Mauser 98's to .30-'06 after WWII, those things were well known and done almost automatically, so automatically that some "how to" descriptions don't even mention them.

But for the smith or DIY'er doing a first time conversion, the work will be a matter of lots of study and a slow, cut and try, process.

Jim
 
Yep, until "cut" part gets overdone, or the "cut and try" gets tedious, then the DIYer says to heck with it and trades his masterpiece off for someone else to find it doesn't work.

Jim
 
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