Winter Hunting: Stainless versus Blued Barrel

Regardless , I either use my Sako stainless with synthetic stock or Ruger No 1 stainless 45-70 with laminated stock in really wet weather....in fair to nice weather it might be one of my blued lever actions ! The Sako is easy to field strip and dry out but the lever guns not so much ! To each their own and the stainless guns shoot nicely...the .243 cal Sako is almost unfair its so accurate and easy to shoot ! A friend of mine has A Tikka that is really accurate as well :D
 
I've just bought a Tikka T3 in 6.5x55SE , I waited for the shop to find me a blued one. There were plenty of stailess ones available, but I prefer chrome molly. After 45 years hunting, in all conditions, I've had no rust problems with any of my rifles.
 
shiny

My only gripe about stainless is that some versions are too shiny! Seems pointless to go to extremes in camo and concealment, and have a neon rifle.

I've thought hard about getting my worst offender professionaly coated or finished in some manner to fix this, but tape is cheap and not as messy as paint.
 
I've never had even a single moisture/rust issue, since I started using the paste wax.

I agree completely. Automobile wax works fine, but I try to use the kind that doesn't have polishing compound.
 
First off... I hate shining things on hunting rifles. :mad:

That said, I live in the coastal mountains in Oregon and the humidity here is horrible. Anything not well oiled will rust. Indoors or outdoors. For that reason and that reason alone I'm slowly switching to Stainless.

If you're worried about rust well on a hunting trip just keep your gun well oiled and cleaned and it won't be a problem.

Boomer
 
The ultra high end stainless barrels are usually more accurate for a longer period of time than the ultra high end blue barrels. That is what I have always been indoctrinated to believe by the bench rest crowd I shoot with anyway. Have no doubt to dispute them because that is all you ever see them shooting.
In a hunting rifle, I do not think it makes 2 cents worth of difference.
 
I generally prefer stainless because it's - stainless. Stainless steel rifles require less maintenance and are less likely to emerge from storage with a patina of rust somewhere or another where the oil did not stick, was dried out or rubbed off.

You also have an option of two "looks" as one can put camo "bow tape" on a stainless arm without worrying about water creeping under the tape and generating rust on a hunt. So if you just gotta have camo, it's quick work to apply bow tape, then remove it after the hunt.

When applying the bow tape, you can use it to tape a little plant material to the gun here and there to break up the outline, ghillie style.

Try that on a blued gun and water will get under the tape and rust the gun.

Polished stainless looks really good but is a scratch magnet. Frosted stainless looks very nice too and is more durable.

Brushed stainless is the most repairable, as a small scratch can quickly be eliminated by judicious application of a "Scotch-Brite" abrasive pad, being careful to make the new scratches go the right direction to match the rest of the gun.

The other stainless finishes are not so easy to repair, but start off looking better.

I used to look down on brushed-stainless finished guns, before I figured out how repairable they were. Now I prefer the brushed finish.

Somebody will always point out that "if you do XYZ, your blued gun will never rust".

Well nobody is perfect, and in my experience a stainless gun is a heck of a lot more forgiving if "XYZ" gets delayed, belayed or overlooked for some reason or another.

Having said all that, I will mention that a polished and blued gun looks awfully good. - Only the frosted stainless approaches that level of beauty.
 
As a lad, I spent some time in the hunting camps in the Adirondacks. The guns in those days were ALL blued steel and wood. Never saw any rust on any of them, ever. Even guns carried so much the bluing was gone on receivers didn't get rusted, because of the way they were cared for. Temps ranged from mid 30s to -20F (and yes, we did go out and hunt in the real cold).

I think the main reason there wasn't any rust issues was the way the guns were treated in camp. From the time of arrival until the after the last day hunting, those rifles never saw the inside of a warm tent or cabin.

They were stored outside (a locked wooden box on the cabin porch at one camp). smart guys removed most or all of the oil for sub zero temps. Condensation was never an issue, until the last day, when the guns were brought in, allowed to warm up, then broken down, wiped and cleaned.
 
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