Will my revolver safely handle +P??

If you don't reload and don't have a reloading manual where you can easily look up the 38 S & W and the 38 Spl. cartridge (which will show the difference dimension wise) - then look it up on Wikipedia - it too, will show you the dimensions and the difference between the two. Easily done so that it can be easily understood.

As far as using "hotter" (+P) loads in an older revolver . . . and I don't care how good of a condition it is . . . I guess that's up to the owner but please don't stand in the next station next to me at the range. A person "can do" anything . . . but to me . . . it's no different than exceeding the maximum loading data recommended by the powder mfg. "because a little more won't hurt". And usually those people that do it and have a problem are the first to complain about all the "safety features" that a gun mfg. has to put on their product.

No offense to the OP or others . . but if a revolver is older and designed for "standard" ammo . . then that's what's intended to be shot out of it. If you want a hotter load, then spring for a newer handgun that's designed for it. Call me what you want but over the years I've seen too many folks with injuries . . eyesight, fingers, etc. from improper ammo being used.
 
As a footnote to Carguychris's footnote,

seems like there are about a dozen different revolver rounds (ok, maybe not quite that many) in .32 and .38 caliber with some variation of Colt, S&W, Long, & Short in their names. They all came out between the 1880s and WW I, and most before 1900.

Some are interchangeable, (shorts in a long chamber), some are identical except for the name and the bullet style they were originally loaded with (Colt had theirs loaded with a flat point bullet, S&W with a round nose). And some don't match or interchange with anything else.

It can get rather confusing quickly, and some research is a good thing, to be certain of which round is being discussed.

It is a well known fact that the great gun rivals hated putting the other guys name on their guns, and until forced to by economics, seldom did one maker chamber their guns for the other's cartridges. S&W and Colt, and Remington and Winchester all played that game for many years. That rivalry still exists, but it has faded alot. More than a few years ago, most of the makers decided it was better to sell guns in anyone's chambering than to lose a sale because you didn't chamber the other guys cartridge.
 
That cylinder looks kinds long for that gun to be .38 S&W. I have three .38 S&Ws one IJ, one H&R and one Enfield. THe Enfields and Webbleys are by far stronger then IJ or H&R.

If you really want to shoot it you are going to have to become a reloader if it is .38 S&W. THe books say you can not use .38 Special cases and shorten them. This just aint so because the .38 S&W is so low powered about the same as a 9mm.

Supposedly when you cut the .38 Special cases down and use them for .38 S&W you split cases. I haven't split one yet. I use a Lee mold for 105 grain SWC bullets.
 
Bill, It might be a refinish, but I have my doubts. I don't know why anyone would take the trouble on an inexpensive gun. Also, wouldn't it have some signs of screws being turned, or indications of use overall on the gun? There's this to consider as well (from another forum): Regards.

"saf: Having been a gunsmith's apprentice for a short while, I have observed several factors which can influence the color of blued steel. In addition to the chrome content, the nickle content of the steel is a factor. It is an oversimplification to state "steel is an iron alloy". It is a combination of maybe 20 or more ingredients - all are variable. The steel and bluing formulae and temperature are factors, as is the exposure to the solution. Case hardening is also a factor. A competent gunsmith cannot always accurately predict the exact color of a reblued firearm. Even a "perfect" blue job can "plumb" with age. Some early Ruger single action pistols have plumb frames. They did not come from the factory like that. Older pieces and antiques will plumb from age. It is one way of indicating authenticity. The type of oil or grease can also influence the patina of an older firearm. Look around at gun shows and really look at some of the older, (and now expensive) domestic firearms like Colt revolvers and quality older shotguns."
 
I can't explain why one would refinish it.
I can say they weren't this color originally, and they aren't known for changing color.
 
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