Why the Accu-trigger blade?

It's "Fixable"

I've never seen one with a trigger that shape.
I've got 5 Savage rifles with the Accu-Trigger, and none of them look like that
.Neither do mine and in fact this is the first time I have seen one of these. :confused:

it just gets in the way when putting your finger in the trigger guard,
I can understand your dislike/frustration as I would not live with this one. Being as cheap as I am I would clip/modify the front of that blade. In my mind, I already have and would not effect it's purpose. Another option would be to contact Savage, for assist. I have always found them to be very helpful... :)

Note:
I've got to walk the suggestion of modifying the existing blade, as I would first have to define how deep the blade has to go into the trigger. As I said, I've never worked with one like this ???!!! :confused:


Be Safe !!!
 
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That's true, it's fixable. I'm just trying to get an understanding of why a blade is supposed to better. It sounds more like an extra safety rather than improving how the gun shoots.

I have already redesigned the bolt to prevent it from damaging the stock, if you're not familiar with a B-Mag they have a cock on close handle that will go down at any time (bottom center picture in link below), it will damage the stock if you don't have it pushed all the way forward before going down. It's a stupid design, I re-engineered it as soon as I dented the stock a few days after I bought it. The bolt now stays up until you push it home (like a normal bolt action).

https://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?65178-Bmag-bolt-mods
 
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On my 12FV I replaced the a accutrigger with a Timney and proceeded to adjust it as light as I could. This caused it to discharge a couple times when closing the bolt, not good.
Yes, this often happens when people who don't know what they're doing try to work on something they don't understand. It's also the reason why gunsmiths check their trigger work by slamming the bolt. It's a learning experience when you close the bolt on a live round and it goes off! Most Timneys are sold as hunting triggers for trigger pulls in the 3 lbs range, and the sear spring on Savage rifles is strong enough to override trigger spring pressure if set too light. Buy a rifle with a different sear systems and it may or may not happen when you adjust the trigger too light.
 
Safest? Really? How is this safer than a normal trigger?

When a normal trigger fails, it is usually due to wear or slop being introduced into low sear engagement without enough spring force holding it in position.

The accutrigger blade will catch the sear unless you were pulling the trigger when it failed. They usually fail when closing the action.....so, that is how it is safest.
 
Yes, this often happens when people who don't know what they're doing try to work on something they don't understand. It's also the reason why gunsmiths check their trigger work by slamming the bolt. It's a learning experience when you close the bolt on a live round and it goes off! Most Timneys are sold as hunting triggers for trigger pulls in the 3 lbs range, and the sear spring on Savage rifles is strong enough to override trigger spring pressure if set too light. Buy a rifle with a different sear systems and it may or may not happen when you adjust the trigger too light.
First of all, you have no idea of my experience with rifles and triggers so your comment about not knowing what I’m doing is irrelevant. When I set this trigger up I tested it thoroughly with no initial problems. I didn’t have any misfires until having fired several hundred rounds before the problem showed up. This is on a range rifle only, not a hunting rifle hence the reason for the light trigger. My intention of this post was to let the OP know what to be careful about if buying this trigger, not your opinions on the degree of my experience.
 
Before I posted the first thread I went and pulled the trigger without pulling the blade and it fired, so for my gun anyway it is not true that it will not fire until the blade is flush. It would make sense if that was the purpose but obviously it is not.
Did it fire or did it snap? It will not fire without blade depressed. If yours does, get on the phone to Savage ASAP.
 
Did it fire or did it snap? It will not fire without blade depressed. If yours does, get on the phone to Savage ASAP.
It was a learning process, I posted after that thread that it didn't impact the cartridge, just clicked, I would rather it didn't release the hammer because I did have a FTF once when my finger was not flat on the trigger. It would be much better if the blade stops the trigger from being pulled rather than a firing pin block, I can see when wearing gloves I would get FTF's.
 
The Accutrigger on my Savage could not be set very light without dropping onto the safety tab. I replaced it with an aftermarket which I set to suit my taste and it did not trip when the bolt was slammed shut.
 
Hmm. I find it strange that anyone would have trouble with the Accu-Trigger. I've owned several Savages in a variety of calibers over 30+ years, and I've never had any problems with any of them. I like them. And I have many friends that I've turned on to Savages, not one of which ever had any problems with them either.

Basically I treat them as an adjustable two-stage trigger, which I've always been partial to for precision-type shooting or game hunting.

But I've never had one misfire or malfunction or not fire when I wanted it to. I did bend one once through sheer stupidity, but replacing one is about as difficult as changing a lightbulb.
 
I hope you guys know that my only Accu-trigger experience has been with a B-Mag .17WSM, they are already known for a bad bolt design. The higher quality Savages probably have better triggers than my B-Mag, I never used a high end Savage to compare. For one thing the blade on mine is too far forward, others I have seen the blade is much closer to the trigger. I might look into seeing if it can be moved back a little making it easier to get my finger in, but I don't use the gun that much though so it hasn't been a priority. I did add shims to the blade to keep it centered in the slot, it was rubbing on the slot before.

OdEHHWf.jpg
 
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It was a learning process, I posted after that thread that it didn't impact the cartridge, just clicked, I would rather it didn't release the hammer because I did have a FTF once when my finger was not flat on the trigger. It would be much better if the blade stops the trigger from being pulled rather than a firing pin block, I can see when wearing gloves I would get FTF's.
My experience with accutrigger is that on 10,12 109, etc. it works great. On Axis, it is problematic. Its almost like same trigger but totally different quality level.
 
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