Why not just flip the light switch?

If he meant weapon-mounted lights, then your point is correct. If he meant a hand-held SureFire or similar, then your point is partially correct. The schools mentioned recommend against solo home-clearing, but they do recommend use of separate lights for target identification.
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No, MLeake, the folks at TR had absolutely no problems with weapon mounted lights for target identification in structures. As they realized and noted in the instruction, weapon lights are so bright that you can aim one straight down at the ground and still see everyone in the room. Sure enough, we could see everyone when this was demonstrated.

I really appreciate you clarifying what everone says, but I think we go it. Thanks.
 
DNS, if you re-read the post over which you are taking offense, you'll realize Willie Lowman asked for two reputable schools that recommend against the use of tactical lights.

You then provided two schools that teach and advocate the use of tactical lights.

IE, apparently you were not answering the question he asked.

But that's ok, as you've got it now...
 
@Mleake--I didn't say the instructor advocated a moving clear--only that he said the law "indulges" the homeowner caught by surprise in his home in the dark and has doubts about his and/or his family's safety. I'm not advocating the moving clear--or even arguing for it--I only mention that I've done it a couple of times without knowing any better because it was my instinct. In both cases, when the guys saw me in a window--they decided to leave the scene--I guess it could have gone the other way but I kinda get the feeling they are more likely to "de-escalate" if they are still outside the home and know someone is actually home. But I will admit that I have no way of knowing whether anyone is actually inside the home other than my dog would probably be going beserk barking and likely attacking. I'm thinking of installing motion-activated lights both inside and outside the home.
 
Lights are good. So are dogs. Other things I've had recommended by some well respected instructors include:

Solid exterior doors, with locks and deadbolts, in solid door frames;

A locked, solid exterior type door between the house and any attached garage;

Landscaping that does not provide hiding spots near the house;

Lockable shutters, and locks on windows;

Burglar bars for sliding doors. Roll-down locking storm shutters for sliding doors;

A good alarm system;

An intercom system;

Verification that there are no unlocked crawl space accesses from the roof or garage;

Locked windows to the basement, if any;

Locked and deadbolted solid door in solid frame between house and basement;

No spare keys around the outside of the house.

Additionally, it was recommended to pay attention for people in vicinity of the garage before one uses the remote from the car - apparently it isn't uncommon for people to get into the garage as the homeowner drives in.
 
Good stuff MlLeake--I like those recommendations. Gotta watch the window stuff--if it's a bedroom or guest room the law may require quick release for fire safety reasons.
 
True, but quick releases work from the inside.

I am only guessing, but I suspect the big three entry points are garage, basement, or else unlocked doors.

Then again, the one time I was burglarized, they kicked in a locked back door that faced a tree line.
 
I haven't read all six pages, but I'll throw in m .02.
Once you "flip the switch" you have done several things:
1. Given up the advantage of surprise, with the exception of the split second where the actual light comes on.
2. You have most likely illuminated yourself to some extent
3. You have given away your approximate if not exact position... Light switch placement is pretty standard everywhere you go. If the bad guy wants to get you, now he just shoots at or near the doorway.
4. Unless you're going to stand at the light switch and work it like a 5 year old, you have completely given up control of when there is light and when there is not.

Granted, 1-3 also apply to using a flashlight, but #4 is the game changer. As a LEO and low light instructor, we teach our guys to use their lights as little as possible while searching for a suspect. When they are used, it is light on 2-3 seconds, light off, MOVE technique (Same concept as "I'm up, they see me, I'm down" bounding movements for those with military experience). In one's own home, a light really shouldn't be necessary at all until the intruder is verified and you've completely got the drop on them. I won't be giving up ANY of my weapon mounted or hand held lights any time soon.

And fiddletown has brought up the best tactic for dealing with an intruder... Let them come to you. Then hit them in the face with a tactical light and proceed with whatever course of action is necessary.
 
For a long time now I've thought of mounting highly directional ultra-bright LED lights on the opposing walls of every possible entryway... or from the ceiling if the wall is distant. Once the door or window is messed with that particular light is automatically activated glaring brightly and into the intruder's eyes... not into mine. A weapon light or handheld light would then just be a backup. A video camera could be activated at the same time sending wireless video to a well-hidden digital recorder.
 
I've read these all, and it seems that neither solution is ideal.

I may start practising my shooting one handed, holding my nightvision monocular to my dominant eye!
I bought it initial to nature watch at night when camping but I may as well practice with it for HD too: sounds like the best no-light option to me!!!

If nothing else, my point shooting will get really good!!
 
Pond said:
I've read these all, and it seems that neither solution is ideal.

I may start practising my shooting one handed, holding my nightvision monocular to my dominant eye!
I bought it initial to nature watch at night when camping but I may as well practice with it for HD too: sounds like the best no-light option to me!!!

If nothing else, my point shooting will get really good!!
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If this is a serious post, I must ask... Have you ever tried to walk and negotiate obstacles with night vision? Particularly a monocular?
 
If this is a serious post, I must ask... Have you ever tried to walk and negotiate obstacles with night vision? Particularly a monocular?
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'
It was semi serious.

Yes, I have tried and yes it is difficult, but my home is essentially comprised of two straight corridors, quite open plan, one on top of the other and, being my home, I know where the obstacles are.

I don't really believe that I would use this method, but I do think I might use the momcular to get a lie of the land.

All this is quite hypothetical for me as I don't think any HD situation would involve someone already in the home, unless they got in while we were out.

I see no harm in practising once in a while to see how such shooting might feel...
 
I have small night lights strategically place in all areas of my home. These are energy efficient LED units with light sensors that turn off when sunlight filters through the window shades. At midnight I can see well enough to recognize a threat. I still want to install some directional break-in-activated lights that will blind a threat so I'll always have the advantage. Again though... I'll have a weapon light as a back-up.
 
I have night lights pretty much in every room... just enough to see furniture, appliances, the odd toy left out, and anyone who shouldnt be there. My reason for the night lights is mainly that I have teenagers. Teenagers do stupid things, at stupid times. Like sneak in and out... at odd times. This is my soloution to the possibility of accidentally shooting the wrong person.

Nothing big... just 6 watt plug in night lights.
 
If forced to clear your house, seems to me you have the advantage in the dark, since you should know your home's layout far better than the BG ... in that case, a flashlight gives you the ability both to use brief flashes of light to locate said miscreant and a. blind him and/or b. shoot him. Preferable of course is holing up somewhere you can defend and calling the cavalry, but that isn't always possible.
 
bikerbill said:
If forced to clear your house, seems to me you have the advantage in the dark, since you should know your home's layout far better than the BG ...
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I don't see why you think that gives you an advantage. To ambush you, all the BG needs to know is that you're coming and from where. The latter is easy because rooms have only a limited number of ways in; and they're obvious, unless your home has secret passages.
 
bikerbill and fiddletown I think the poster you're refering to is assuming a BG who doesn't know his home... which is a SERIOUS MISTAKE.
 
Mike1234 said:
bikerbill and fiddletown I think the poster you're refering to is assuming a BG who doesn't know his home... which is a SERIOUS MISTAKE.
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For my part, no. My point is that it doesn't matter. Even if the BG doesn't know the layout of the house, he still has the advantage. You may know your own house; but even if the BG doesn't, it still doesn't tip the scales in your favor.
 
Try playing "hide and seek" with your kids during the evening/& low light and determine who sees who first. Family time as a bonus?
 
Massad Ayoob gives a lecture on this topic. He has his place rigged, and recommends that others rig their places, so that he has a master lighting panel in the bedroom.
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In most places you would have to hire a licensed electrician to do this sort of stuff in compliance to code, and that isn't cheap. Might end up being cheaper just to rent a dozer and dig your own moat.

I'm not engaging in house clearing. No way, no how. There's nothing in my house that's worth taking a bullet for and the valuable stuff is bolted down inside a 1100 pound steel box anyway.
 
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fiddletown... I agree and what I meant was that any BG might be someone who is already familiar with our residence. Many crimes are committed by those we know and by whom we may be close to... sad, scary, and painful as that may be.
 
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