no i follow you just fine .
the lock is a right hand lock thats placed on the left side of your gun . thus its turned backwards .
but if your were to take a left hand lock and place it backwards on the right hand side of your gun , it would be in the same place .
in your case however the lock , which started life as a right hand lock "becky" but is no longer much like the original but for the use of the lock plate which also has been cut down . it would have to face forwards and thus NOT be in the same place . just as you showed in your photo .
but if you had used a left hand lock . that lock could have been placed on the right hand side of your pistol and in fact been in the very same place .
the need for the lock to be on the left hand side was defined by your choice of lock , it not being avalable in left hand and your request for the lock to be placed on the left hand side .
i say that again as a reponse to
as to your frizzen
I think you may be misunderstanding me when I say drawn back .
There are two basic ways to make a frizzen , forging and casting . Well 3 if you want to include milling but that has its own concerns .
With forging the frizzen is brought to non magnetic temperature . This aligns the molecules. The part is then quenched . Which hardens the frizzen .. If its left that way and put to service , it will snap .
So the frizzen is drawn back to give it resilience . IE the toe , pivot lid and just a little up the back , are brought back to the blue stage , IE right around 700 degree give or take .
The frizzen face is controlled to the light straw color stage which is right around 400 , give or take .
Then let stand to cool
If it’s a cast frizzen , then depending on the type of metal used to cast , it may or may not be brought back to non magnetic . For the most part the frizzen’s that would be purchased from say L&R , Davis , Chambers are all cast and unless otherwise stated , are ready for use .
With Jims locks ( chambers) I have never had a frizzen that did not spark very well .
Davis and L&R often are to hard IMO . As such I use Bobs method of drawing by placing the frizzen in the oven at 350-400deg for 1 hour or until the frizzen face has a nice even straw color . Its let stand to cool .
Now what does this all have to do with your frizzen . Well if you look , its cased .
That can be done a couple ways , I wont go into that but to say its most times done at temps above 1560 and below 1700 if your intent is to impregnate carbon . The reason for that is that this is the temp that steel will absorb carbon and achieve very bright and long lasting colors . Which from what you say is probably how your frizzen was done .
These colors however are only surface deep . This is why lower temperature casing doesn’t last very long as it’s the temperature of the steel not the carbon burn off that’s giving the colors .
But with lower temperature casing , your drawing back the hardness as part of achieving the color.
With actual case hardening where carbon is being introduced to the part , the result is that the part will be to hard and break unless its drawn . But in base the part is being drawn by the act of casing
So lets say Larry used a casting or the original Davis Frizzen .. He then cased it to give it a higher carbon content .
On parts like lock plates , this makes for a very slick and smooth surface that parts slide across very well .
For your frizzen , it impregnated more carbon to the face . The amount depends on how much the original part had in it and how long it was kept at temp .
So understand drawing does not mean annealing . Your frizzen is still hard , the temper of the frizzen is just brought back to a point that it will be resilient and spark well ..
it’s a tried a true method that’s been used for centuries
im sorry if there was an misunderstanding.
I was just trying to explain for the sake of the others here who may like your pistol but do not want the lock on the left hand side
the lock is a right hand lock thats placed on the left side of your gun . thus its turned backwards .
but if your were to take a left hand lock and place it backwards on the right hand side of your gun , it would be in the same place .
in your case however the lock , which started life as a right hand lock "becky" but is no longer much like the original but for the use of the lock plate which also has been cut down . it would have to face forwards and thus NOT be in the same place . just as you showed in your photo .
but if you had used a left hand lock . that lock could have been placed on the right hand side of your pistol and in fact been in the very same place .
the need for the lock to be on the left hand side was defined by your choice of lock , it not being avalable in left hand and your request for the lock to be placed on the left hand side .
i say that again as a reponse to
The reason is if you had it on the right side the lock would have to be moved
fauther foward.
as to your frizzen
I think you may be misunderstanding me when I say drawn back .
There are two basic ways to make a frizzen , forging and casting . Well 3 if you want to include milling but that has its own concerns .
With forging the frizzen is brought to non magnetic temperature . This aligns the molecules. The part is then quenched . Which hardens the frizzen .. If its left that way and put to service , it will snap .
So the frizzen is drawn back to give it resilience . IE the toe , pivot lid and just a little up the back , are brought back to the blue stage , IE right around 700 degree give or take .
The frizzen face is controlled to the light straw color stage which is right around 400 , give or take .
Then let stand to cool
If it’s a cast frizzen , then depending on the type of metal used to cast , it may or may not be brought back to non magnetic . For the most part the frizzen’s that would be purchased from say L&R , Davis , Chambers are all cast and unless otherwise stated , are ready for use .
With Jims locks ( chambers) I have never had a frizzen that did not spark very well .
Davis and L&R often are to hard IMO . As such I use Bobs method of drawing by placing the frizzen in the oven at 350-400deg for 1 hour or until the frizzen face has a nice even straw color . Its let stand to cool .
Now what does this all have to do with your frizzen . Well if you look , its cased .
That can be done a couple ways , I wont go into that but to say its most times done at temps above 1560 and below 1700 if your intent is to impregnate carbon . The reason for that is that this is the temp that steel will absorb carbon and achieve very bright and long lasting colors . Which from what you say is probably how your frizzen was done .
These colors however are only surface deep . This is why lower temperature casing doesn’t last very long as it’s the temperature of the steel not the carbon burn off that’s giving the colors .
But with lower temperature casing , your drawing back the hardness as part of achieving the color.
With actual case hardening where carbon is being introduced to the part , the result is that the part will be to hard and break unless its drawn . But in base the part is being drawn by the act of casing
So lets say Larry used a casting or the original Davis Frizzen .. He then cased it to give it a higher carbon content .
On parts like lock plates , this makes for a very slick and smooth surface that parts slide across very well .
For your frizzen , it impregnated more carbon to the face . The amount depends on how much the original part had in it and how long it was kept at temp .
So understand drawing does not mean annealing . Your frizzen is still hard , the temper of the frizzen is just brought back to a point that it will be resilient and spark well ..
it’s a tried a true method that’s been used for centuries
im sorry if there was an misunderstanding.
I was just trying to explain for the sake of the others here who may like your pistol but do not want the lock on the left hand side
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