Why do Lee pots leak?

I weighted the valve handle on mine and it works ok.

That said, I found that ladle pouring is more my style, so I'm in the market for a standard, non bottom pouring pot.

I never had an issue with temperature swings. I put my Lyman thermometer in the melt and leave it there, and it seems consistent. I pull it out when pouring, but otherwise I guess I have never really paid attention to the temperature swings you guys have.
 
I cannot say that mine has never evacuated it's self while in the heating up stage. It could have easily been prevented had I not gone to answer a call.

That said I only paid something like $60 for mine when it was new, and I fully have easily recovered that with just the cost of surf weights I poured up.

The temp control is really nothing more than a rheostat to give it more or less juice. The temp will vary as the level in the pot drops. I was simply using the cut off sprues to keep it relatively constant, but as I got more into trying to have some resemblance of consistency with my weights I added in the PID controller. Talk about the cats meow. Now I just pick out which mold I want to use, set the temp for that alloy and rock along. My bullet weights usually only vary by a grain or three at the most now as long as I keep up a good cadence.

While this don't really matter much if one is pouring up bullets to simply punch paper with, when your reaching out some to distances beyond 50 - 100yds it does make a difference.

As for the other brands, I can't say they are or would be any better than what I am using now. They all get hot, and melt alloy. The final product comes from the mold and how it was poured. Other than being able to say I use a Lyman or RCBS or Ballisti-Cast, I doubt I would know the difference after the bullets were cooled, lubed and sized.
 
The temp control is really nothing more than a rheostat to give it more or less juice.
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I disagree. As I cast with my Lee pot, I can hear it click off when it reaches a "high limit" and then click back on when it reaches the "low limit" (just like your furnace and air conditioner). Therefore, I do believe that Lee pots have a rheostat plus upper and lower limit switches. If it was just a rheostat the pot would not shut off and on to maintain temperature. Anyone disagree...explain it to me please.
 
I have a LEE 20lb pot. It drips. I have learned to live with it.

I think I'll add a weight to mine and see if it eliminates the drip, if it does I will be happy, if it doesn't I'll still be happy. Either way I win.
 
Mine drips a little occasionally, usually if my alloy isn't quite as clean as it should be. I did lap the valve before I ever used it, and I also widened the hole just slightly with a drill bit. Whenever it starts to drip it's because of impurities in the melt - with real clean alloy it's a non-issue for me.
 
Come on folks

Err - Ah folks, I think we have gotten off subject here!

I wanted to learn WHY Lee pots leak. What, if anything, can be done to stop the leaking. The majority of posts report the pots leaks.

There are some smart people that post on this forum. Unfortunately I am not one of them. Surely, some gurus most know what is causing the problem.

Several posts indicate the problem is dirty lead. Don’t really buy that, as I used the RCBS Pro Melt to melt tire store wheel weights and range salvage from the early ‘80s till the early 2000's. No leaks! Also, as Snuffy points out, just about everything floats in molten lead. But doesn’t that include dirt, sand and other crud? Therefore, don’t understand cleaning out the pot regularly. Wouldn’t any “crud” that peeled off the pot just float to the surface to be skimmed off. Have never cleaned my RCBS pot in the 25 - 30 years I have owned it.

I do flux the mixture frequently. Usually several times using a “pea size” piece of bullet lube, whenever I add lead to pot.

Adding weight to the valve control seems to make some sense. The RCBS valve control appears to be much heavier than the Lee. More sealing pressure on the flow valve control rod.

Come on folks. Help me out! Why do Lee pots leak and can anything be done to stop the leaks?

Thanks,

Jerry
 
Come on folks. Help me out! Why do Lee pots leak
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Poor design (not heavy enough to seal), less than perfect fit between valve and valve seat.

and can anything be done to stop the leaks?
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Add weight to the valve rod. Lap the valve and seat.
If those two things do not solve the problem, remove the valve system and replace the valve with a self-tapping metal screw and use a dipper. Questions answered.
 
Hi Dahermit,

Thanks for your somewhat brusque reply. Didn't really answer question, simply restated other responses.

However, I guess I need to stop going to "Strarducks" for coffee. Put $5.00 in jar every day. When / if the Pro Melt quits I will have enough to hopefully buy a new a new Pro Melt.

Wouldn't consider ladle casting - Why would anyone? Started casting with a cast iron pot and ladle. Never go back. Bottom pour casting is 2X - 3X faster.

Jerry
 
Wouldn't consider ladle casting - Why would anyone?
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Because it works and is fuss free.
I used to do bottom pour with a good pot. I would go back if I ever get a good pot. But, for now, I don't do enough to justify buying a Lyman and will stick with my El Cheapo Lee.
 
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I have 2 of the old 10lb pots, I haven't used them for about 20 years but they really are one of Lee's best products next to the powder dippers. I bought the pots when I was poor and loved them. Prior to that I used a ladle, makes good bullets but so slow it wasn't funny. I'll buy the 20lb Lee pot if I ever get back into casting.
 
Bottom pour casting is 2X - 3X faster.
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You think so because you have never seen me casting with two identical molds (two-six cavity Lees at the same time for instance), for each bullet I cast, and the benefit of having worked in production for many years. You guys with bottom Lee bottom pours spend more time swearing, trying to get the leaks to stop, clearing debris, trying to flux with the valve systems in the way, than you do casting. Not to mention culling out the bullets with dirt/imperfections in them. :p
 
You are just funnin' us.
Lee pots don't leak.
Attached Images Leepot-1.jpg (115.0 KB, 35 views)
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What the....??? Did you fall asleep while you were casting? :eek:

I've seen wine bottles used as candle holders with less drippage than that, and they were using candles that were SUPPOSED to drip. :rolleyes:

My Lee 20 pounder will drip a tiny bit, depending on how clean my alloy is, but that's just crazy.

I'd have to chalk it up to operator error. Either you didn't clean up as you went, or if it leaked that bad, that fast, your error was in continuing to use it. :p
 
That happens when you turn on the pot and walk away and wait for it to heat up. Due to the handle not having enough weight on it, when the lead starts melting, the rod starts to float up in the lead and the valve opens and you have run away lead pot. I had that happen once. Adding a couple of ounces at the end of the handle kept it from happening again.
 
Replace the wooded knob with one made of steel the added weight will stop the drip if you have a good seal.

About once a year I clean my pot out put a little valve grinding compound in the valve where the rod fits into and give it a spin for awhile with and a cordless drill. It cleans things up nicely and help promote a good seal.
 
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