I recently bought a new Springfield mil spec. It is my first 1911 and also my first semi auto pistol. So far I have put 250 rounds through it but have not been able to make good accurate shots with it. Ive been shooting at a 12 inch round target that has about a 3 inch center bullseye and all of my shots are going 3 to 4 inches to the right and also 3 to 4 inches low. I have even shot as close as 7 feet from the target and I still hit low right. Not all of my shots are low either, some are just to the right. I have spent a lot of time on the internet trying to find out what I could be doing wrong and everything seems to lead towards trigger control. I have also learned how to correctly hold the gun with my thumb on top of the safety and keeping my hand up as high as possible on the grip. I spent some some time dry fire practicing to see if the front sight moved away from the center of the target at all when I pull the trigger but that didnt seem to be an issue. I can hold the gun steady aim for the center of the target and pull the trigger and still be able to keep the front sight pointed where I want it. Just when I think im doing well with the dry firing I load the gun and take my shots but still seem to hit the target anywhere in the 7 to 9 o'clock position and about 3 to 4 inches away from center. I just got back from shooting again today and while I was out I had to stand literally 4 feet from the target before I could hit the 3 inch bullseye. What els can I be doing wrong? Could it be an issue with the gun?
Why cant I shoot my 1911 accurately
- Thread starter Kingcuda
- Start date
Aguila Blanca
Staff
What makes you think this is the "correct" way to hold the pistol?Kingcuda said:
I know many trainers teach this hold, but I also know others who don't. That hold doesn't work for me, at all. Too many years of holding the 1911 using a real-world grip (I started in the Army, in 1967) have developed enough muscle memory that trying to use an unnatural grip like laying the strong hand thumb above the safety creates all kinds of problems.
Questions:
What is your weak hand doing when you shoot? What part of your finger is contacting the trigger? How tightly are you gripping the pistol? Are you pushing forward with the strong hand and pulling back with the weak hand?
Some things like this are awfully difficult to shake out in posts on a forum.
One very easy thing you could do that might help immediately is to hand the pistol over to a well-seasoned shooter that you can use as a baseline to quickly determine what the same pistol does in someone else's hands.
This will give no final word and this will also not address what you are doing with it, but it certainly can take a very large variable -OUT- of the equation quickly.
One very easy thing you could do that might help immediately is to hand the pistol over to a well-seasoned shooter that you can use as a baseline to quickly determine what the same pistol does in someone else's hands.
This will give no final word and this will also not address what you are doing with it, but it certainly can take a very large variable -OUT- of the equation quickly.
First off you're far from the only person to ever have this issue. I highlighted the above because I've seen it a lot. What people are discounting is that the human body is pretty clever. It knows the difference between live ammo and dry fire practice. You may have a flinch that only occurs while actually firing. One way to diagnose this is to mix in snap caps with live ammunition at the range when you're loading the magazines. Then jumble the magazines. You should have it so that the hammer falls on what is a dummy round without you knowing beforehand. In many cases you'll see yourself flinch. I've done this with my wife and it helps you diagnose the problem, and it also seems to help people work on the issue in that they practice better trigger control as a result.
Lastly, keep it simple. Stance and grip can vary from shooter to shooter. The real keys, imo, are a good sight picture (get that front post in the rear notch but focus in on that front sight) and then make a slow, steady press to the rear (think of that trigger like a doorbell and the pad of your finger is just pressing it straight back to the rear) when that front post is where you want it. You may find you surprise yourself with the recoil at first, it's fine and won't cause any damage. When you get slow fire down, then pick up the pace slightly. That should take care of your windage. If you find yourself still shooting a little high or a little low, play around with the following sight pictures as pistols can be set up differently in terms of point of aim translating into point of impact:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sight+pictures&espv=2&biw=1680&bih=965&tbm=isch&imgil=Dza5MN6KE0B6zM%253A%253BjmqHQhjlIgMyzM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fforums.1911forum.com%25252Fshowthread.php%25253Ft%2525253D290257&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Dza5MN6KE0B6zM%253A%252CjmqHQhjlIgMyzM%252C_&usg=__TlzcbP4AryNGAj1Jry3mNxv_GgU%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjIqaizr7fMAhVHmh4KHbTuBPwQyjcILw&ei=PywlV4iOF8e0erTdk-AP#imgrc=Dza5MN6KE0B6zM%3A
lee n. field
New member
Possibly. More likely it's you, something with your technique.
My first formal class a bunch of years ago (Midwest Training Group's Intro to Defensive Pistol) completely changed the way I was shooting. There're a lot of details of grip, stance, trigger control, etc. that affect the outcome. I shot much better coming out of that, than going in. (I need to do a refresher, if I ever have time and money. I've gotten sloppy.)
Take a class.
^ I would definitely take a class as well. Be mindful when you sign up for the course what is covered and what experience level they expect. Personally I developed my fundamentals a bit before I started taking courses, but at the same time you don't want to just keep practicing bad behavior as that's not helpful. I only point that out in that you don't want to be struggling so much with the course that you're not paying attention to what's being presented or benefiting from it. Again, be candid with the instructor about your experience and skill level. We all start somewhere and a good instructor will direct you accordingly.
I'd try some pointers out first, but definitely get some instruction. Be mindful too of the experience of the person teaching you; there are imo charlatans out there. The NRA Basic Pistol course is a decent way to expose yourself to the basics, just be sure the instructor teaching it does include a live fire part of the course.
I'd try some pointers out first, but definitely get some instruction. Be mindful too of the experience of the person teaching you; there are imo charlatans out there. The NRA Basic Pistol course is a decent way to expose yourself to the basics, just be sure the instructor teaching it does include a live fire part of the course.
Tucker 1371
New member
Are you shooting left or right handed? If right handed consult the chart below. Also, the front sight is preached about a lot in both pistol and rifle shooting, but it's not the only thing. Make sure your front sight isn't drifting to the left in relation to your rear sights. 
Lastly, it could be the gun. And I may know a likely culprit if that is the case. The SAI milspec model appears to have an arched mainspring housing. Nothing wrong with that, it is as John Browning intended the 1911 to be. However, I have the same issue with Glocks as you have with your 1911, exactly the same actually. For whatever reason the further I get from the target the further my shots, with Glocks and Glocks only, tend to drift low and left. If you look at 1911s with an arched MSH and compare them to Glocks you will see they have a similar geometry and for some shooters this doesn't work.
Try diagnosing your shooting a little more, adjust your trigger finger position a little (more trigger finger), ensure your front sight remains aligned with your rear sight and if that doesn't correct the problem and you are 100% sure you've done everything you can, go buy a flat MSH for your 1911. They are not difficult to install. All you need is a punch.
Link to mainspring housing for sale
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...7_a_7c12465_a_7c555102001_d_555102001_d_10735
Lastly, it could be the gun. And I may know a likely culprit if that is the case. The SAI milspec model appears to have an arched mainspring housing. Nothing wrong with that, it is as John Browning intended the 1911 to be. However, I have the same issue with Glocks as you have with your 1911, exactly the same actually. For whatever reason the further I get from the target the further my shots, with Glocks and Glocks only, tend to drift low and left. If you look at 1911s with an arched MSH and compare them to Glocks you will see they have a similar geometry and for some shooters this doesn't work.
Try diagnosing your shooting a little more, adjust your trigger finger position a little (more trigger finger), ensure your front sight remains aligned with your rear sight and if that doesn't correct the problem and you are 100% sure you've done everything you can, go buy a flat MSH for your 1911. They are not difficult to install. All you need is a punch.
Link to mainspring housing for sale
http://www.brownells.com/handgun-pa...7_a_7c12465_a_7c555102001_d_555102001_d_10735
Last edited:
boatdoc173
New member
a couple ? come to mind
1. are you a newer shooter?
2. which hand is your shooting hand?
3. is the gun new in the box or just new to you?
newer shooters sometimes jerk the trigger and/or may use too much finger on a 1911 trigger( if you are righty--this will jerk the shots right and sometimes low)
if it is used gun, the sights may be off target as well
if you suspect the gun is at fault., have a friend or 2 shoot it too. and bench rest shoot it as well.
if you really think the issue is your shooting>>
print some of the free shot corrective targets you can find online. choose right or left handed shooter and they can help guide you as to what YOU are doing wrong
also they now make dry fire cartridges with laser lights that you can use during your dry fire practice to be sure poa=poi all day long
good luck
1. are you a newer shooter?
2. which hand is your shooting hand?
3. is the gun new in the box or just new to you?
newer shooters sometimes jerk the trigger and/or may use too much finger on a 1911 trigger( if you are righty--this will jerk the shots right and sometimes low)
if it is used gun, the sights may be off target as well
if you suspect the gun is at fault., have a friend or 2 shoot it too. and bench rest shoot it as well.
if you really think the issue is your shooting>>
print some of the free shot corrective targets you can find online. choose right or left handed shooter and they can help guide you as to what YOU are doing wrong
also they now make dry fire cartridges with laser lights that you can use during your dry fire practice to be sure poa=poi all day long
good luck
I have worked one one sample of a SA mil-spec.Not much of a sample to draw conclusions from,but frankly,it was not particularly well done.It had issues.
Meaning,it may well be all about you and your technique,
But I would not assume the pistol was actually sighted in via firing.
The sights are on the slide.The barrel launches the bullet.
And each person ,position,grip,and even load will shoot to a different place.
Its true something like trigger length can influence your finger pushing the gun around.Maybe.Or recoil anticipation or?
Maybe your technique is fine and your sights are off.
For a lttle while,forget where the group is.Just see how good of a group you can shoot.
Have realistic expectations.Mil-spec is not National Match.If it shoots 4 or 5 in at 25 yds,that may be what it does.Add your error,as a human,6 in groups at 25 yds might be within expectation.
Are you using a 6 ocklock or a center hold? That can make a big elevation difference,
Meaning,it may well be all about you and your technique,
But I would not assume the pistol was actually sighted in via firing.
The sights are on the slide.The barrel launches the bullet.
And each person ,position,grip,and even load will shoot to a different place.
Its true something like trigger length can influence your finger pushing the gun around.Maybe.Or recoil anticipation or?
Maybe your technique is fine and your sights are off.
For a lttle while,forget where the group is.Just see how good of a group you can shoot.
Have realistic expectations.Mil-spec is not National Match.If it shoots 4 or 5 in at 25 yds,that may be what it does.Add your error,as a human,6 in groups at 25 yds might be within expectation.
Are you using a 6 ocklock or a center hold? That can make a big elevation difference,
I've heard of people insisting that you should rest the thumb of your strong hand on the top of the safety of a M1911 while shooting. The only real reason given is so you don't unintentionally bump the safety up into the on position. I have shot 10's of thousands of rounds in M1911s with my thumb down on the grip where it belongs, and have yet to bump the safety up into the on position. Around half of the top grip screw should be visible above your thumb, or just barely covering the top grip screw. Shooting low right means you are squeezing your grip on the pistol while pressing the trigger (for a right hander). Imagine the top grip screw on both sides are thumb tacks, with the points facing outward. Those imaginary thumb tacks should never have enough pressure on them to poke into your hand. A proper grip is on the front strap and the back strap. Your thumb is barely touching the left grip, and your palm is barely touching the right grip.
Tucker 1371
New member
This sounds like too much trigger finger (pulling the gun right)
This sounds like too little trigger finger (pushing the gun left).
Can you clarify KingCuda?
The above is some great advice.
Any new (to me) gun I get I shoot it with all the support I can get. I sit down at a table with sand (or rice) bags use both hands and try to take all the human error I can out of shooting the gun and try my best to shoot it EXACTLY the same and see what kind of group it shoots. I don't worry where the group is just how tight a group. If the gun shoots a tight group then that will shame me into doing my part to shoot the same tight group. If the group is off target then I adjust the sights if possible or work on my 'technique'.
Good luck.
redhologram
New member
It sounds like your trigger press to me. Maybe even rushing to get your shot off when you think you've got the perfect shot set up and you jerk the trigger. Especially since you are saying the closer you get to the target the more accurate you are. That's going to happen. Any flaws you have in your technique are going to become more glaringly obvious the further away from your target you get.
When you shoot, don't stand there and take too long trying to line up the perfect shot. Just step up, push out, find your target and take your shot. That way you aren't overthinking the process and giving yourself too much time to rush when you think you've lined up the perfect shot.
I'd also suggest getting rid of the bullseye targets and getting silhouette targets. Your focus then can be less on trying to hit a bullseye and more on seeing if your shots are landing where you need them to count.
When you shoot, don't stand there and take too long trying to line up the perfect shot. Just step up, push out, find your target and take your shot. That way you aren't overthinking the process and giving yourself too much time to rush when you think you've lined up the perfect shot.
I'd also suggest getting rid of the bullseye targets and getting silhouette targets. Your focus then can be less on trying to hit a bullseye and more on seeing if your shots are landing where you need them to count.
When you are firing, gently squeeze the trigger with the front lad of your trigger. Make sure you pull straight back smoothly. Also it helps to have it surprise you. Press the trigger slow and steady so that the trigger finally coming all the way back and firing the pistol surprises you.
Also a flinch can happen when you are firing and not dry firing. Relax breathe slowly and steadily and grip the pistol hard but not so hard that you shake from tension. You want your thumbs hugging each other and pointing toward your target. Slightly push with your strong hand slightly pull back with your weak hand, this will help stabilize the gun when firing and minimise recoil. Grip the pistol as high up into the beavertail grip safety as you can get it while still being comfortable. Focus on the front sight.
Keep us updated. I am an experienced pistol shooter but I was having accuracy issues with my Walther when I first got it. I believe I was flinching and gripping the pistol harder when firing because of the recoil.
I am very accurate with 1911s and always have been, since the first time i shot one. However I have never shot one with the arched GI style MSH,
Also a flinch can happen when you are firing and not dry firing. Relax breathe slowly and steadily and grip the pistol hard but not so hard that you shake from tension. You want your thumbs hugging each other and pointing toward your target. Slightly push with your strong hand slightly pull back with your weak hand, this will help stabilize the gun when firing and minimise recoil. Grip the pistol as high up into the beavertail grip safety as you can get it while still being comfortable. Focus on the front sight.
Keep us updated. I am an experienced pistol shooter but I was having accuracy issues with my Walther when I first got it. I believe I was flinching and gripping the pistol harder when firing because of the recoil.
I am very accurate with 1911s and always have been, since the first time i shot one. However I have never shot one with the arched GI style MSH,
Do you have a shooter who you know to shoot well enough who can shoot 10 yd groups and make sure the gun is fine?
I had an SA loaded that shot 4" low right 15yd groups....a Kart EZ fit and a short Dawson front sight made it shoot the bullseye. I proved it was not the gun by shooting other 1911's and seeing I could shoot all others to poa!
From there, you need to work on trigger pull with both dry and live fire. Your shooting hand should grip with the force of a solid hand shake. Your off hand should grip slightly harder. There should be minimal to no shaking. Practice builds strength and confidence. This builds precision aiming.
Then work on trigger stroke. Teach your self to know your trigger and stroke it to the rear while fighting to keep your FR sight on target. Work on this stroke until you have a fast, smooth, non-steering stroke. You should start building real confidence in seeing the trigger break as your sight passes over the target. This is "combat" aiming. Hold it on the overtravel stop until you are ready to release and stroke again.
I had an SA loaded that shot 4" low right 15yd groups....a Kart EZ fit and a short Dawson front sight made it shoot the bullseye. I proved it was not the gun by shooting other 1911's and seeing I could shoot all others to poa!
From there, you need to work on trigger pull with both dry and live fire. Your shooting hand should grip with the force of a solid hand shake. Your off hand should grip slightly harder. There should be minimal to no shaking. Practice builds strength and confidence. This builds precision aiming.
Then work on trigger stroke. Teach your self to know your trigger and stroke it to the rear while fighting to keep your FR sight on target. Work on this stroke until you have a fast, smooth, non-steering stroke. You should start building real confidence in seeing the trigger break as your sight passes over the target. This is "combat" aiming. Hold it on the overtravel stop until you are ready to release and stroke again.
I think the first question is, are your shots grouping fairly well? If so, that means you are consistent and the point of impact may be your fault OR the gun's fault or a combination of both.
Here's what I mean. I took a new CZ 1911A1 to the range Friday. Nice gun with quality parts. It shot off paper at 7 yards. I'm guessing about six inches left and four inches low. Even using Kentucky windage, I couldn't hit black in the four mags full I used. I then quit wasting ammo.
Just to verify it wasn't me, I whipped out another 1911 I brought and all the shots from the first mag were in the black (rapid fire). So, I'm going to check with CZ about the sights and, if they don't cover them, then I'll take care of it myself. I had one officer size SA Mil-spec a few years ago that shot several inches low. I had bought it used and didn't like it well enough to fool with new sights so I traded it.
Let an experienced 1911 shooter try it first and see how they shoot. That will at least tell you if its you, the gun, or both.
Here's what I mean. I took a new CZ 1911A1 to the range Friday. Nice gun with quality parts. It shot off paper at 7 yards. I'm guessing about six inches left and four inches low. Even using Kentucky windage, I couldn't hit black in the four mags full I used. I then quit wasting ammo.
Just to verify it wasn't me, I whipped out another 1911 I brought and all the shots from the first mag were in the black (rapid fire). So, I'm going to check with CZ about the sights and, if they don't cover them, then I'll take care of it myself. I had one officer size SA Mil-spec a few years ago that shot several inches low. I had bought it used and didn't like it well enough to fool with new sights so I traded it.
Let an experienced 1911 shooter try it first and see how they shoot. That will at least tell you if its you, the gun, or both.
All good responses above. Like others have said, I am guessing that since you indicated this is your first semi-auto that it has more to do with technique than the actual pistol itself. Not to say that it couldn't be the pistol... It could and I have had one or two in the past that were very poor in terms of sight regulation. But, given what you've described I'm guessing it's technique for the most part.
Great advice above; have someone experienced with the 1911 (and by experienced I mean someone who has spent significant time behind the trigger, not just someone who also owns one) shoot it and see what happens. I can also tell you that understanding the theory of proper technique and executing are two different things. I literally struggled with handgun shooting for years before finally getting something down that resembles consistency. I'm not saying it will take you that long... But it's like any other precision sport: don't expect the theory to translate into results immediately. Think of it like golfing: I know what to do every time I step up to the tee, but what actually occurs isn't always the desired outcome.
Great advice above; have someone experienced with the 1911 (and by experienced I mean someone who has spent significant time behind the trigger, not just someone who also owns one) shoot it and see what happens. I can also tell you that understanding the theory of proper technique and executing are two different things. I literally struggled with handgun shooting for years before finally getting something down that resembles consistency. I'm not saying it will take you that long... But it's like any other precision sport: don't expect the theory to translate into results immediately. Think of it like golfing: I know what to do every time I step up to the tee, but what actually occurs isn't always the desired outcome.
polyphemus
New member
The target chart above applies to one hand firing,you shoot two handed and it tells you nothing.Trigger finger control is critical as pointed out,sounds like you twitch it just before the trigger breaks.You could try the BRASS method:breath,
relax,aim,slack,squeeze.Also the weak hand should just hold,the strong hand
does the firm grip.
relax,aim,slack,squeeze.Also the weak hand should just hold,the strong hand
does the firm grip.