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Who hunts deer w/ a 12ga & rifled/slug barrel?
- Thread starter Uncle Ben
- Start date
NightSleeper
New member
We have a lot of shotgun only country here in WI. Can't hunt with a rifle in most of the southern part of the state.
I'd say accuracy is closer to 200yrds if you have a rifled barrel and scope. I just got my first buck last November with my Remington 11-87 by the way!
Technically a slug barrel is just a barrel of a certain length (18 inches maybe?) Most of us up here use rifled barrels.
I'd say accuracy is closer to 200yrds if you have a rifled barrel and scope. I just got my first buck last November with my Remington 11-87 by the way!
Technically a slug barrel is just a barrel of a certain length (18 inches maybe?) Most of us up here use rifled barrels.
Brian Pfleuger
Moderator Emeritus
Night Sleeper said:Technically a slug barrel is just a barrel of a certain length (18 inches maybe?) Most of us up here use rifled barrels.
What makes you say that? I've seen slug barrels from 18 or so all the way to at least 24 inches, maybe more. I think the only difference is typically the sights. Slug barrels generally have "rifle" sights or no sight system at all, while bird barrels generally have a rib and bead, or at least a bead.
Current model 11-87 deer guns have 21" barrels, Browning Silver deer guns come in at least 22 and 24" barrels.
I see alot of people say "It's the law", but not go into depth why it's the law.
This is exactly the reason why. I grew up in ND and MN, hunting pheasants, ducks and geese primarily. I still go back to hunt with my family every year, where I hunt, it's all prarie.
If I were to miss a deer with my Winchester M70 7mmWSM (which I use here in Idaho), I may injure an old lady sitting in her rocking chair knitting and watching Dr Phil, a mile and a half away in her farmhouse. This was the exact referance that my firearms instructor in ND gave to our class. Now when you already have shotguns to hunt birds, which most people who hunt do in MN, ND, and SD, the economical option is to shoot slugs, instead of purchacing a new muzzleloader rifle.
If I miss a deer here in Idaho, then my bullet only travels 600 yds across a valley into the next valley. And if you see orange past the target, you shouldn't be firing
Doyle said:Why use a slug instead of a rifle ? Only because the law says you have to. Any other reason just doesn't make sense. Some people try to justify it by saying "it's a perfect brush gun because it busts through brush". Hogwash. If you can see the deer clearly enough to shoot, then a rifle will get the job done there as well as in open places the shotgun could never compete. If you can't see the deer clearly enough to shoot, then DON"T SHOOT. It MIGHT have some validity in areas where you can legally use a rifle but are so close to populated neighborhoods that you are concerned about bullet travel in the event of a miss. Even in that case, a muzzleloader would give you superior accuracy and range without any extra bullet travel danger.
This is exactly the reason why. I grew up in ND and MN, hunting pheasants, ducks and geese primarily. I still go back to hunt with my family every year, where I hunt, it's all prarie.
If I were to miss a deer with my Winchester M70 7mmWSM (which I use here in Idaho), I may injure an old lady sitting in her rocking chair knitting and watching Dr Phil, a mile and a half away in her farmhouse. This was the exact referance that my firearms instructor in ND gave to our class. Now when you already have shotguns to hunt birds, which most people who hunt do in MN, ND, and SD, the economical option is to shoot slugs, instead of purchacing a new muzzleloader rifle.
If I miss a deer here in Idaho, then my bullet only travels 600 yds across a valley into the next valley. And if you see orange past the target, you shouldn't be firing
Steve_in_SEMich
New member
Uncle Ben - Where rifles are legal to use, most hunters would use a rifle. Unless the hunting area is thick with brambles/shrubs/small trees, then a shotgun slug, either rifled or saboted, will be a better "brush-buster". I respectivefully disagree with Doyle - a 300-535 grain projectile traveling 1000-1500 feet per second slower than a 75-180 grain rifle bullet will deflect less and not be torn apart by the small obstacles (not unsafely blocking your view). I hunt in Michigan and New York - both have shotgun areas. In my Browning Gold Hunter, the cantilever scope base on the barrel is very sturdy and I have great accuracy with Federal Premium + Barnes bullets, Remington Copper-Solids, and the 1 1/4 ounce Lightfields. As others have said - recoil is significant. I gave up shooting slugs with my Winchester Pump shotgun. Since switching to the semi-auto, shooting 20-30 slugs for testing and training is comfortable.
If the range is less than 150 yards, you'll be happy using shotgun slugs on deer.
If the range is less than 150 yards, you'll be happy using shotgun slugs on deer.
Brian Pfleuger
Moderator Emeritus
Unless the hunting area is thick with brambles/shrubs/small trees, then a shotgun slug, either rifled or saboted, will be a better "brush-buster". I respectivefully disagree with Doyle - a 300-535 grain projectile traveling 1000-1500 feet per second slower than a 75-180 grain rifle bullet will deflect less and not be torn apart by the small obstacles (not unsafely blocking your view).
The idea that slugs are "brush-busters" has been conclusively disproved many times over. They may well deflect "less" than a rifle round over a short distance, but they most certainly do deflect and they deflect to an extent that makes predicting the direction and amount, even over short distances, impossible.
Slug gun/muzzleloader only here in Indiana. With the correct combination of barrel, gun, and slug one can accurately shot 150-200 yards.
As far as the 'brush buster' theory, just as with any projectile, the closer the target is to the brush the better. The slugs that I am shooting (lightfields) are much softer than rifle ammo therefore the effects of deflections are magnified with any significant 'brush' in the bullets path.
As far as the 'brush buster' theory, just as with any projectile, the closer the target is to the brush the better. The slugs that I am shooting (lightfields) are much softer than rifle ammo therefore the effects of deflections are magnified with any significant 'brush' in the bullets path.
Where rifles are legal to use, most hunters would use a rifle.
Not really, most deer I have shot was no farther than 50 yards out. Good ground blind or driven most of my shots have been that close. I do have a weatherby 30-06 too but prefer the shotgun, hunt birds take a slug or two along and bag a deer same day. I have done just that in the past.
NightSleeper
New member
Not really, most deer I have shot was no farther than 50 yards out. Good ground blind or driven most of my shots have been that close.
Yeah, generally the same applies up here. If you want to get to the deer, you gotta' go and find them. Thick brush, marshes, kettles and kames, woods. With the exception of 1 deer all mine were taken at 50yrds or less.
Not really, most deer I have shot was no farther than 50 yards out. Good ground blind or driven most of my shots have been that close. I do have a weatherby 30-06 too but prefer the shotgun, hunt birds take a slug or two along and bag a deer same day. I have done just that in the past.
I get the bird thing...though I don't hunt birds... The rest? I don't get it. It's not like a rifle doesn't work at under 50 yards! And nearly all rifles are more pleasant to shoot than a shotgun...and more accurate too. I guess I'm odd or something, but a rifle seems like a much better tool for deer. You have the short range covered, the long range covered, less recoil, cheaper bullets, more accurate - what's not to love? If I had a choice between my 7mm-08 and a shotgun, I'd take the 7-08. No contest really. Unfortunately the counties in which I typically hunt are shotgun/muzzleloader only.
Zhe Wiz
While I have used rifles, and may again.....
Under typical Eastern conditions a decent slug shotgun is not a handicap.
Shot opps over 50 yards are the exception, not the rule. And while I eye askance ANY claims of brush bucking abilities, the big lead chunks shotguns throw MAY be slightly less subject to deflecting on a twig, leaf or shadow.
Slugs, even from the 20 gauge, provide plenty of power and penetration.
The 20 gauge Rottweil is quite effective, right up there with the 12s.
The other 20s,used at reasonable range, make nice short blood trails when properly inserted.
And unlike,say, 25-06s, the meat is edible right up to the hole.
Under typical Eastern conditions a decent slug shotgun is not a handicap.
Shot opps over 50 yards are the exception, not the rule. And while I eye askance ANY claims of brush bucking abilities, the big lead chunks shotguns throw MAY be slightly less subject to deflecting on a twig, leaf or shadow.
Slugs, even from the 20 gauge, provide plenty of power and penetration.
The 20 gauge Rottweil is quite effective, right up there with the 12s.
The other 20s,used at reasonable range, make nice short blood trails when properly inserted.
And unlike,say, 25-06s, the meat is edible right up to the hole.
woodswalker67
Inactive
Born and raised in Illinois, Marlin Model 512 Slugmaster,(clip-fed bolt-action)1"in 28" twist shooting Lightfield 1-1/4 oz sabots.Absolutely hammers both deer & shooter.
Things come full circle. In the days before smokeless powder, British hunters going into places like the African plains used "bore rifles" to hunt big dangerous game. These guns looked like heavy built double barrel shotguns with express rifle sights. The bores were often rifled but sometimes smooth to allow use of shot shells. They fired a hard cast lead round ball. Very destructive on the large beast. A "10-bore" would fire a 700 grain ball. (10 lead balls to the pound). Then smokeless powder came along and allowed longer range and lighter rifles.
bamaranger
New member
things have changed
Back in the day, when there were no "dedicated" slug guns, and shotguns wore beads, and not dots and Leupolds, the Foster slug, or heaven forbid the "punkin ball" (my Dad had a cigar box w/ a few in it), the shotgun was pretty limited in range due to the sights (or lack of). And so a shotgun was looked upon as a marginal deer getter. Who wanted to lug a 30 inch 12ga pump w/ a 50 yd range around all day when they could have a M94.
Now we've got special bbls, sights and slugs and the shotgun w/ slug seems a pretty effective deer getter, esp since most deer are killed inside 100 yds anyhow.
I am most curious about this 150-200 yd slug shooting and 8 inch group business. Not to hi-jack the thread, but how do you zero such a gun?
Are you simply measuring low groups at 200, but zeroing the gun on at 100? If so whats the drop?????
Or do you zero it x high at 100 to come on at 200? The velocity has got to be low, so the trajectory must be very arcing, ie lots of drop. A long range zero (200?) must result in a very high midrange trajectory, enough for plenty of misses if we count in shooter wobbbles.
How do you zero a .68 caliber rifle??????????????
Back in the day, when there were no "dedicated" slug guns, and shotguns wore beads, and not dots and Leupolds, the Foster slug, or heaven forbid the "punkin ball" (my Dad had a cigar box w/ a few in it), the shotgun was pretty limited in range due to the sights (or lack of). And so a shotgun was looked upon as a marginal deer getter. Who wanted to lug a 30 inch 12ga pump w/ a 50 yd range around all day when they could have a M94.
Now we've got special bbls, sights and slugs and the shotgun w/ slug seems a pretty effective deer getter, esp since most deer are killed inside 100 yds anyhow.
I am most curious about this 150-200 yd slug shooting and 8 inch group business. Not to hi-jack the thread, but how do you zero such a gun?
Are you simply measuring low groups at 200, but zeroing the gun on at 100? If so whats the drop?????
Or do you zero it x high at 100 to come on at 200? The velocity has got to be low, so the trajectory must be very arcing, ie lots of drop. A long range zero (200?) must result in a very high midrange trajectory, enough for plenty of misses if we count in shooter wobbbles.
How do you zero a .68 caliber rifle??????????????
Adding sights is more than just unscrewing a bead. You have to drill and tap the threads exactly inline on both the front and back of the barrel. Plus, you'd have to find the right height sights that match that barrel. Of course, all that assumes your bird barrel has enough meat in the wall thickness to handle screws. By the time you do that, you are better off buying a $75-$100 barrel from Gunbroker.