Which takedown method do you like the least?

My Ruger 22/45 is a royal pain. Actually, breakdown is very easy - it's the reassembly that seems something like a Rubic's cube. If I burn the right incense and chant just right, then the hammer strut will actually land into the spring cup and that's wonderful. Sometimes it just refuses to cooperate.

The Ruger P97DC is a distant second, only because I keep forgetting to put the breakdown pin / slide release partway in after the slide is partway on, or some such nonsense, along with remembering to push the little whatsit lever down into the mag well before taking the slide off.

It just makes me appreciate the work of Browning, Glock, Makarov, Kalashnikov, Stoner, Garand, Mauser. And sometimes I wonder about Garand. When I assemble the M1's weird little parts like the mag follower, the bullet guide, and a couple of other things that get held in by that pin, I think of the design of the little bones in the inner ear, obviously designed by a mind that lives on another planet.

Regards.
 
New Mk2's are harder!

I have a Mk 2, and do not have that much trouble taking it apart and puting it back together now. I have done it a lot, so it is easy and smooth now. But when I first got it, I would say that it was the worst of all, period. I had more trouble with that thing then I ever thought possible! You need a nylon ar wooden mallet to get the barrel off the frame! :rolleyes: Poor design, period.

Oh yea, the Mk II is another one that you have to pull the trigger. You can do it out side, but the gun must be un-cocked before you can take out the spring in the grip. I have forgoten to do that 2 times, and it is very, very hard to get right after that.

Oh yes, I just got my Cabelas Spring Shooting catalog, and the have a kit in it for the Mk II. Its called a Speed Strip Kit, cost $50, and "Kit includes a two-piece stainless steel bolt stop, hammer, and 5/32 allen key. Installation requires common gunsmithing tools".

If anyone has this now, let us know if it is worth the price and time. :cool:


Least trouble: Beretta 92/96. 2 seconds and slide is off frame, 5 seconds it is taken down completely. If you do what your supposed to, there can be a round in the chamber and it is still safe to strip! But I would no recomend it. ;)
 
My worst was a 1911 with an oversized barrel bushing. Almost (no kidding) broke a bushing wrench. Since it was my first 1911 it made me swear off that design for a while. Then the Kimber CDP's came out and just looked too good.

notbubba and ctc, the trick to reassembling a Cougar is to hold it upside down. With the slide inverted the spring and thing that rides on it stay in place. Then I just ease the frame in place. Take down is just like the 92/96 series for me.

Abominable (can I call you Abby?), I thought that when the recoil spring is properly placed it holds itself in against the slide an barrel?
 
Yeah, those S&W semi-autos have got to be among the worst. It's always a relief when they're back together and working without having bent or broken something while trying to get the slide back to the rear. But I like 'em.

I had a SIG P239 that required me to bend the plastic recoil spring guide towards the barrel until they touched before the takedown lever would rotate. Anybody else ever have that problem?
 
1911, may need bushing wrench, even more with solid guide rod, even more ultra compacts that need pins through the guide rod to hold the spring back. When reassembling, need to line up the swinging link, and the plunger/s.stop interface...

Reassembling the Glock with non captive guide rod, even more with heavier springs.

The famous MK2 rear biatch thingy.

Kahr guns that need the slide stop to be hammered out while holding the slide slightly back.

Ar15, can't let the recievers freely swing around front pin, possibly could crack at the holes (the tough GI gun).
 
A friend and I bought our guns roughly at the same time. At one day at the range the question of field-stripping came up. Odd enough he himself didn't know how to strip his 9mm *&* Traget Champion. I knew it it's taken apart Browning-style, but it took the help of other to finally get his gun disassembled.

My vote for the most difficult to field-strip gun design goes to *&* autos and similar like BHP/1911/HK USP.

Those with a simple lever, like Walthers or Berettas are better, but you still have to manipulate the lever for re-assembling.

In my opinion Glocks are the easiest to field- and detail-strip.
 
Glockgazda:

Actually, Kahr's are pretty easy to take down once you know the trick. Without the trick, it seems to require 3 hands. Here's what you do:

1) remove magazine, lock slide open, and verify that the chamber is empty, both visually and with your finger.
2) do step 1 again.
3) is it really empty?
4) you sure?
5) close the slide
6) put your left thumb through the trigger guard and wrap the fingers of your left hand over the top of the slide.
7) with your left hand in this position, you will be able to retract the slide the to the takedown mark and hold it there.
8) with the slide retracted the proper amount, turn the gun over so you can see the right side.
9) with your right hand, use the plastic handle of a screwdriver to tap out the slide stop.

It takes a whole lot less time to do than it does to explain.

M1911
 
The Automag V is my worst.

You need a tool (I use a rifle case) to compress the outside diameter of the recoil plug against the pressure of a garage door spring to twist a tight bushing for which there is no wrench. This is famous for ripping fingernails.

The slide stop has a locking plunger to keep it from catching the slide during the cycling sequence because of violent recoil forces. This makes the slide stop difficult to extract, and darn near impossible to replace without some extra fingers.
 
Ruger Mark II Target .22

Taking it down is a pain, and putting it back together is even worse!

Sold mine for a Sig Trailside for that very reason!
 
With tight 1911's I try to move the slide back about 1" until the bushing comes off the taper up to the muzzle, bushing will then turn by thumb. No FLG rods for me. Also use the cheater strip, rack the slide back with right index finger pushing in on slide stop, release slide, pull slide stop rest of way out and release slide fwd. while wrapping left hand around dustcover and following fwd to contain recoil spring. 2 second strip easy.
 
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