Which scope level is best?

Jason- I do look through my scope and then down through my barrel. I guess as far as my eyes can see it is. I only use One pc scope mounts also. Not sure if that helps but seems to. I know if I am zeroed at 300 yards and I click up 32 clicks, With no wind and me pulling trigger good,it is a bullseye at 600 yards.
Now I have taken this rifle out to 1400 yards and while I am not near good enough shot to tell you if it is the Idiot behind the trigger or the scope not being perfect I can't say. I will still pull pretty good groups with it. I still have much to learn about doping the wind a mariage (sp). At 1000 yards it will hold inside 8 to 10 inches or better with ease. I know a lot has to do with having a good scope.
I run a Sightron3- 8-32-56. Very very nice scope and tracking is perfect.

Last week now ( stupid) I did make 3 changes and all I can say is WOW. Things really came together all at once. Changed powder, Primer and got a new Fancy front rest for it. Can't say which one made the difference or a combination of all 3, but man am I happy with it now. Can't wait to get to 1000 again to see what it does now. Excpecting much better from it.
 
1 degree at 1000 yards also subtends 60 MOA which subtends about 600 inches and that's about 50 feet. Bullets that drop 30 feet from bore axis at a thousand yards need about 6/10ths degree elevation departure angle to hit point of aim; 36 MOA in rifle sight jargon.

If your scope is 1/4" off to one side of the bore axis, that's the maximum parallax error possible from any range from zero to infinity; insignificant for practical use when zeros are set to 1/4" off from group centers.
 
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I hear today about thousands sightrons and I am in the market I might give one a shot I just had a camera mount four a weaver mount and I got board so now when I'm prone and I'm shooting 600 meters I just move my head and my 60 power spotting scope is there I'm not using it for shooting just for checking my shot groups and I never shot 1000 Bart I was just guessing 9 ft I guess I under estimated eh!!!
 
Bart you asked how I leveled the barreled action on the stock ?? It's a 900 dollar h.s . persisicion kevlar stock completely aluminum pillar and block bedded already I just had to skim it like they say
 
Bart, Springfield used to make a scope with an internal level. I have four of them. The level is seen at the very bottom of the cross hair. You do not see the entire level, only the center of it. I guess they figure if you do not have enough sense to get close, the level wont help you much to hit anything.:D They are hands down the best scopes for the money I have ever purchased. I paid $495 for them. They are on par with the highest end Leupolds made at that time.(98-2000,forget exactly when I bought them) Supposedly, they were an exact copy(made in Japan) of a scope they had made in the U.S. and submitted to the Navy for trials as sniper scope.
 
Back to the OP’s question, I prefer the side mounts. The reason is I don’t need to change my cheek weld to see it, also I shot with both eyes open so I simply change focus to my non-dominate eye to verify level.

DPI7800

That's where I was headed but I've changed my mind. I have one that mounts at 12 o'clock on the tube, a SWFA that is off to the side but up around 11 o'clock, and a B-Square that attaches to the scope rail on my crossbow. The later two are ok using both eyes but it's hard for me to short focus with my left eye and I feel like I'm cross-eyed.

Seems like with the one that mount at 12 o'clock, I can sort of pick up the bubble with me peripheral vision with still looking down range, albeit having to lift my head, but not all that well. After looking at all 3 again, it seems the 12 o'clock model would be the least susceptible to getting knocked off. Thanks.
 
As long as the bubble is small Ann the lines close together cause is you have a cheaper level with a small bubble and wide lines you are still guessing 3 4 5 degrees to center it between the lines expecially if only one side of the level is seen with close lines you only need see one side of the level
 
I use bubble levels on many of my rifles. I find they do indeed help with consistency. I have the Vortex level on the 700. I have one of the center line ACDs on my Savage LE .223. I also have some of the B Square levels on a couple of other rifles and they seem to work pretty well, but they protrude somewhat from the side, which could make them rather vulnerable, but mine have held up okay so far, and I do use the Varmint AR rather a lot. The B Squares are easy to mount, while the others will certainly try your patience.
 
Jason, a 1/4" long spirit level shaped to the perimeter curve of a 2.865" radius circle can have five 1 degree cant marks every 1/20th inch centered across it. That size would easily fit in the bottom of a scope's reticle cell.
 
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As I said earlier, Springfield has already made a scope with a level in it. It works wonderfully. Have no idea why they quit making it.
 
I suggested decades ago to several top scope makers to put a small spirit level inside the scope at the bottom of and behind the reticle cell so it could be seen and centered on the vertical reticle at its bottom. Even submitted a simple drawing showing its design.
Click to expand...

We have two KonusPro M-30's that have an internal bubble level just like this ^^
Beyond me, why lower/intermediate "level" scopes like this have them, and absolutely none of the top-tier scopes, do?
 
I use the Wheeler level that flips out http://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Anti-Cant-Indicator-30mm/dp/B008YLR34S . It is very easy to see . If you have a scope with large eye relief . It sticks out far enough to see with the eye you're using to look down the scope . It then flips back down when cased .

guns148.jpg
 
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