Which cold blueing....

FLG #1 uses Oxpho Blue for touchup on sight cuts, mag well bevels etc. and it does fine.

FLG #2 uses Oxpho Blue for whole guns. His method is not the same as what Brownells recommends for large areas, he developed his own. They look quite good although I have not put a lot of wear on any one item to see if it is as durable as hot or rust blue.
 
My Marlin 55 was looking rough when I bought it. I wiped it down good with bore solevant and oiled it real good. The majority of the surface rust is gone now. It's very far from new looking but doesn't look like it was left outside now.

Have you considered rust browning? Sounds like your gun already has the first step started for you? I've been wanting to try it for awhile.
 
I recently picked up this H&R Bicycle Hammerless in 32 S&W. Attached are before and after pics from using Oxpho-Blue - 1 application and 1 session of buffing with 0000 steel wool - TODAY.

I haven't spent the time on additional applications but it will look many times better after a few more sessions of heating on low with heat gun, applying, & buffing with 0000. The after picture doesn't do it justice. The camera is much harsher than the naked eye. If I get around to it I will post after pics of the completed project.

BTW, dang shame they don't make these anymore in modern materials. Something in 32 ACP or 327 Mag would be lovely. :)
 

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I reblued a section of my sks - the segment of barrel behind the front sight up to the bayonet lug. I had used the regular old Birchwood casey blueing solution in the past with so-so results - seemed like it just wouldn't take.

But this time with the same bottle it worked well.
What I did different was: degrease by scubbing with detergent and water. Then I dried it, and hit it with something like brake cleaner. Then I ran that section of the barrel under HOT water (faucet in the basement can get pretty darn hot... could have used overflow pressure valve from water heater I suppose) until that whole segment was hot to open up pores, then hit it with brake cleaner again. The metal was bone dry and brake cleaner evaporates quickly. Then I did what others mentioned above by bluing and repeating.

It's worth it to note that Q tips and steel wool will often have its own layer of grease or oil on it which can hamper the process so you may want to hit them with break cleaner too and then let them dry before using or use something else. I don't touch the barrel much so it looks as good as it did last year. Danger is OVER doing it and coming out with a rich deep blue/black when the rest of the gun isn't nearly as blued. Best to stop earlier than too late since you can always revisit and do more. On a less successful note I had tried to reblue a segment of the recoil spring cap at the rear at a single spot. Actually it was a band of rust - perhaps someone had a rubber band on it? This came out splotchy and I should have attempted a larger section at a time so it would blend in better. Good luck.
 
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