Which .38 spl bullet type for new reloader?

B

BondoBob

New member
For my first reload, I'm using a SW 686 357 4" but making 38spl loads or +p. I'd like some recommendations on powder and bullet type.

158 grain seems most available where I am. I'm not clear on soft lead vs hard cast vs plated vs jacketed. What would be the best bullet type to start as a new reloader? I'm just going plinking with these for now. I see you have to vary pressure with different bullet types. I want to find the balance between, too hot and avoiding squib loads. I don't want to spend a lot on bullets, but don't need to get the cheapest either. $0.08 to $0.15 is my price range.

What's up with bullet lubrication and is it really necessary? How do you accomplish this if the bullets are not already lubed or coated? And why is it not needed for FMJ? Or is it?

Also, I was thinking of starting with Trailboss powder, do to the size of the media making it difficult to double charge. Any other recommendations?

I have the lee manual (ABC's of reloading is on it's way to me) and have been reading load data online from various manufacturers. But the available bullets are hard to match up with the available powder these days.

Thanks,
 
Check out Extreme Bullets. They are copper coated and work great as long as you don’t load them past 1200fps. Use lead data and you’ll be fine. 158 gr is standard for .38sp and pretty much any profile bullet will work. I’ve settled on the truncated cone profile myself for my revolvers and round nose hollow points for my lever action. Just crimp them enough to hold but not cut through the thin copper plating. You can test your crimp using an inertia bullet puller. Load up a dummy round and use the puller to see if the copper is scraped off when pulling a bullet.
 
While Extreme 158 gr plated bullets are fine, I'd recommend starting with a different projectile. I don't believe Extremes have a crimp groove or cannelure. This adds a level of uncertainty about seating depth and amount of crimp. I'd recommend a hi-tek or standard led with a crimp groove or cannelure. Or you can always start with 148 gr HBWC seated flush with Bullseye or W231/HP-38.
 
I’d start with either a lead powder coated 158 grain round nose or semi-wadcutter. There’s plenty of load data out there for 158 grain bullets in .38 Special. The powder coat negates the need for lubrication. Powder coat or jacketed bullets don’t have exposed lead and therefore don’t need lube to prevent leading.
 
Mix and Match: 357 and .38 specials

I'll chime in even though there is more experience than I have out here.

For .357 lead bullets, I use 158SWC. I use to use AA9 but the recoil was so much on the top end I thought my frame would eventually wear out or crack. I want something more mild. I tried 11.5gr Blue Dot and my Model 66 groups 1" at 20yds and the recoil is more mild. I was using Gold Dots though, not lead. My practice loads with 158gr OT hasn't been tested yet.

I would suggest 148WC with your .38 special brass with Bullseye. The target loads are mild and accurate. To me there's no use practicing with .357 magnum loads only, develop a flinch and have bad groups. If you don't do this, I use to mix my .38 special loads with one or two .357 loads to force myself to identify and work on avoiding a flinch.
 
Xtreme plated revolver bullets have a bit of a cannelure, but it does not appear very deep and would call for more care in setting a crimp. If you just have to have that copper shine, that is the most economical way to go.

I would start with a 158 grain semiwadcutter, preferably coated so as to reduce the chance of bore leading and cut down on the smoke from smoldering bullet lube.

What's up with bullet lubrication and is it really necessary? How do you accomplish this if the bullets are not already lubed or coated? And why is it not needed for FMJ? Or is it?
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Lead bullets must be lubricated - or coated - to prevent lead fouling of the barrel. Bullets are lead-tin-antimony alloy, which has another name; solder. Soft lead on hot dry steel will stick very well.
Copper does not lay down much deposit on steel, jacketed or plated bullets don't require lubrication.

But the available bullets are hard to match up with the available powder these days.
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There are a lot of bullets and a lot of reasonably suitable powders on the market, you can't expect to find a "recipe" for every possible combination. The weight and material are enough to get started with, but you have to know the process, not just a jump to the big numbers.

You are starting in a good place. There is no published .38 Special load that will over stress your .357 Magnum revolver. But you must be careful not to double charge it.
Yes, Trail Boss will protect you from yourself on that, but it is not wise to depend on it. You might want more than 800 fps as you move along, which would get you into dense powders.
 
I agree with others that say what ever bullet you go with , it should have a crimp grove . Now this is only because you're new and it just cuts down on the guess work on seating depth . With the 38spl you likely don't even need to crimp but go ahead and crimp a little just to get the feel for it .

I consider my self experienced and I want NO part of wadcutters . Just the thought of them confuses me but that's just me .

I think a bulky powder is a really good idea for new reloaders . Not only does it help prevent the double charge , you can actually see the charge in the case to confirm the case has been charged . You can later advance to smaller powders once you get some time behind the press . I was loading 5.6gr of Titegroup into a 357 case the other day . I have to say even after many years of reloading it was a tad unsettling barely being able to see any powder in the case on my Lee CTP little lone trying to see if the charge was the same in each case before seating the bullets .
 
I recommend a jacketed bullet because they won't lead the barrel like all the other types can if not loaded correctly. Jacketed are the easiest to load because you don't have to worry about stripping off the plating or coating that can cause leading. You just load them and shoot. And bare lead bullets (cast or swaged) produce a lot of smoke when fired. Not fun.

A great jacketed bullet to start with is Zero, available at Roze distribution.
http://www.rozedist.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=RZD&Category_Code=ZBJ-38S

They run 10-11 cents each, depending on the weight and are very high quality - their 9mm and 45 bullets are used by expert bullseye shooters because they are superbly accurate.

Once you load jacketed bullets, you might never want to load anything else. Really.

Here's another tip, if you want your gun to remain as clean as possible, use lead-free primers.
 
I used to cast for the 38, but as I'm still full time employed, I just don't have the extra time that casting and lubing calls for.

So, I've settled on buying bulk plated projectiles @ 158 grains. Very versatile projectile and tons of loads for it. Accurate as well.

My go-to powder is 700-X, but 231 and Unique are in my supply as well. They are all good performers.

38 SPL is a great round to start out with and learn reloading techniques and procedures...

Bayou
 
...bare lead bullets (cast or swaged) produce a lot of smoke when fired.
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Not unless you're loading black powder behind them.;)

BondoBob,

Personally, I would go with a 158gr SWC, either cast or swaged with a crimp groove on it. In most cases, they will come lubed from wherever you buy them. Regarding powder, I would recommend Red Dot powder, as it is a very bulky powder and will not allow you to double charge a case without you noticing it. Hope that helps.

Don
 
These day's when I get out the 38, I'm shooting 150gr semi wadcutter's. I'dmuch rather shoot the 148gr wadcutter but something wrong with my 148gr mold and I'm to lazy to fix it. Year's past, 148gr wad cutter with 2.5grs Bullseye was my go to load!
 
I simplified my reloading life by just using .357 cases and trading the .38 cases away. (I don't have a .38 special gun.)

I can load light .357 loads or heavy .357 loads and I don't have to worry about the shorter .38 cases gunking up the cylinder so the .357 cases won't fit. (Although it really is no big chore to clean the cylinder out.)

Also I don't have to worry about having "hot" .38 loads around that might some how some way find their way into a .38 that can't handle them.

Your choice though and a lot of folk DO reload .38's for their .357 though so this is just a suggestion and not any kind of "warning".

Good luck.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by USSR View Post
Not unless you're loading black powder behind them.

Cast and swaged bullets lubed with a traditional waxy lube produce lots of smoke when fired. That's one of the benefits of coated bullets.
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Sorry, but I have been shooting my cast and lubed bullets for at least 35 years, and while there is some smoke, LOTS OF SMOKE is simply over the top.

Don
 
USSR said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by USSR View Post
Not unless you're loading black powder behind them.


Sorry, but I have been shooting my cast and lubed bullets for at least 35 years, and while there is some smoke, LOTS OF SMOKE is simply over the top.

Don
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Well, I've been shooting cast bullets, including the one's I've cast, at least a decade longer than you (as if that matters), and they are very smokey, produce lots of smoke, tons of smoke, and so on. This is not an over the top description when you're shooting a competition and after the first few rounds the smoke starts to obscure the target. That has happened to me many times. Your lube might not produce as much smoke as other lubes. But smoke is an inherent problem with waxy lubes.

I don't have my own video to share but readers can view how much smoke they produce at the videos at the bottom of the page of the link below.

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/159682-drawbacks-of-cast-bullets/

It's not as much smoke as black powder, but it's a ton of smoke compared to jacketed/plated bullets.
 
74A95 said:
I recommend a jacketed bullet.
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I do too with new reloaders, because jacketed is the easiest bullet to have success with.....and that's what you want. You take a kid fishing, do you go after the fish of 10,000 casts, a Musky? you could, but kids/beiginners like to have success. They just want to catch something, so you go with basic tackle and fish for panfish. Jacketed bullets are more forgiving when it comes to amount of flare and crimp. Really hard to over roll crimp a good jacketed revolver bullet. Hard to shave a jacketed bullet because your flare is a hair too little. jacketed bullets are also not fussy about throats and bores, like lead bullets, and will work with any revolver, regardless if throats are different. Jacketed cost the most, but are generally the bargain with new reloaders because they produce good ammo, even if technique is not perfect. There's always time to experiment with plated and lead once you got some experience. The other suggestion I give is to not buy in bulk until you figure out what works well for you and your gun. While buying in smaller quantities costs a tad more, you won;t end up with 450 bullets that your gun doesn't like of 7.5# of a powder that is not really appropriate for your type of ammo. Again, once you get it figured out and you know what works for YOU bulk is a viable option.
 
I had/have a 357 load using lead lubed bullets and HS-6 powder that is so smokey when in a indoor range the two lanes on each side of me stop shooting until I’m done shooting that load . I can barely get through 6 rounds before I need to back away from the cloud .
 
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