What's wrong w/ Kimber Series IIs?

Ok so, back on topic, the conclusion is the problem is may the thing may NOT go off if the grip safety is not fully depressed??

Correct, the grip safety has to be fully depressed or it won't release the firing pin. Hold your Kimber with a girlie grip and it won't fire.
 
No Skunk

The point about the grip-safety requiring full depression is not what all the talk is about.

It's the possible failure to return-to-batery reported by GUNTESTS and a few owners at 1911.forum & the Unofficial Kimber forum.

There is a transfer-bar that is pushed up past the frame when the grip is depressed. This is suppose to occur. It then moves the firing pin block inside the slide allowing firing pin travel.

The problem is that the transfer-bar has to much extra float, and during recoil it can purtrude higher than required and catch on the slide's firing pin block. It then leaves the slide about a 1/4" out of batery. The disconector is now not in the grove on the slide. The result is trigger pull but no action.

We can duplicate it with every Series II Kimber in the shop here. Just hold one upside down with pressure on the grip-safety. Pull back the slide and give it a little shake. Now slowly ride the slide down. It will stop 1/4" from batery. The 'shake' allows the transfer bar to pertrude to it's extreeme.

Apparently the higher level of recoil in the lighter models produce the greater energy needed to allow the transfer-bar to ride that high.

All that would be required to fix this is a return/rebound spring on the frames transfer-bar. This would not allow the extra extension thats causing the hangups.

I never had a falure of RTB when the parts were in. I just don't like the 'perfect grip idea' in a defensive gun. This is a different problem than the one being addressed. The result of this would be a 'click' instead of a boom, because the firing pins travel would be blocked by the Series II safety.

To see my point-With an empty chamber, attempt to push in on the firing pin with a pen. Now start depressing the grip safety. Notice that the grip-safety must be right against the frame before the fire pin travel is allowed.

I want to get of the first couple rounds regardless of the grip. A person might be drawing and firing one suppresive shot just to gain cover, assuming the aggresor already has cover. Hopefully you won't take a Weaver stance and fight it out in the open, while the BG is using a vehicle for cover.

What if you are already hit? You might not be able to get a perfect grip. There is no telling what could happen in a real life event. The grip pressure is the last thing I wanna worry about.

I've lived through close quarters battle in '96, while in the military. I can tell you that nothing can prepare you for what happens to your mind when the adrenaline starts. Hearing a 'click' would be the worst sound I can imagine.

Scouts Out!
Cavalry!
 
DSK, good points. I suppose it's probably a great idea to have those parts, and a screwdriver, handy in case of a shooting, so you can put them back in right away! :D
 
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