What's the difference?

1

1hogfan83

New member
I'm thinking of getting into cap and ball shooting and I really like the look of the 51' colt navy but I want a .44. I'm not a history freak in the sense that everything has to be totally accurate but with the look of the 51' and a .44 you can get both in the dragoons. I've been looking at the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd model dragoons but can't find the differences. Any help would be appreciated.
 
1st model: cylinder stop notches are oval/round; squareback trigger guard
2nd model: rectangular cylinder stop notches; squareback trigger guard
3rd model: rectangular cylinder stop notches; rounded trigger guard

BTW, Dragoons are huge compared to the '51s.
If you don't care about historical accuracy, get one of the modified '51 frames with a '60 rebated cylinder in .44.
 
The Dragoons have round barrels, the navies have octagonal barrels and yeah the dragoon weighs four pounds.

dragoon_zpshjbufddh.png
 
Then the weight wouldn't be an issue. I'd opt for a Dragoon or Walker in that case. My Ruger Old Army typically draws attention. Either of these make it pale in comparison. I usually get lots of questions.

If you shoot a good bit casting is certainly the way to go. I bought cheaper Lee equipment and scrap lead at $1/lb which means I can get 48 0.457" balls for that dollar or 35 of my 195 grn bullets. Can't beat those prices and takes no time to break even, especially where boolits are concerned.

Since historically correct isn't an issue for you you might also look into a steel framed incorrect .44 cal 1851 Navy. It weighs a little more than a pound less than the above mentioned revolvers and might well be more comfortable and handy as a hunting sidearm were you to so choose to.

And if hunting is a consideration I'd suggest Swiss, Olde Eynsford, or Triple 7 powders as they are much more energetic and can produce no less than .45 ACP performance if not warmer .45 Colt performance (my Ruger Old Army with it's more accurate 35 grn charge with my 195 grn WFN boolits likely gets close to 500 ft/lbs).

You may also want to make your own lube and wads.
 
I make what's known as Gatofeo's #1 lube. He found it in an old gun magazine from the 30's or 40's showing an historic recipe for outside lubricated bullets from the late 19th century.

It's melted in a double boiler and is by weight:

1 part mutton tallow
1 part paraffin wax (Gulf Wax)
1/2 part beeswax

I use this on wads, pistol bullets, Lee REALs for my rifle, and I'm told it works well for patched balls also.

Gatofeo claimed to have tried everything and found this to work the best. I'm happy with it.
 
Howdy

I used to make my own BP lube by melting Crisco and beeswax together in a double boiler. Ratio was 50/50, exact ratio did not really matter very much.

By the way, don't think of wads such as a patched ball in a flintlock rifle. You don't really need wads with a C&B revolver, but a lubed felt wad between the powder and ball helps wipe out the fouling from each proceeding shot, and also gives a little bit of extra insurance against a chain fire.
 
I don't plan on hunting with the gun, it's most likely going to be a plinker, is the purity of the lead that important?
 
Pure lead is easier on the parts of a cap n ball loading system. Too hard and it will break parts.

Even more so if it's not a ball.
 
In my case the only thing I don't do is manufacturing my primers.

I use my own casted ogival and ball bullets, my own powder and my own lube. I use to do it from cow grease and butter at a 10:1 ratio, and it performs well. Obviously it is black powder shooting so some sort of cleaning is needed after several shots, there is no magic...
 
When you load a ball in a revolver it shaves a ring off of it so yeah it needs to be pure or very, very close to it. Pure lead has a BHN of 5. I use lead with a BHN of 6 and it works very well but that's probably about as hard as you can go without putting undue stress on the parts.
 
I've found places online for lead, a friend is also a tire shop manager, and the father in law knows every junk yard owner in the south central Missouri area. The hardness/smelting has me perplexed I guess.
 
If you can get stick on wheel weights they're good. The clip on weights are too hard but they make good cartridge bulets. There's a lot of zinc weights out there now tho so watch out for them. If you have a bottom pour pot don't use dirty lead in it. Make clean ingots first.
 
Ok, so if I want really soft lead for my revolver then do I need tin? Most of my reading material has mentioned solder but their adding for harder bullets.
 
I've been advised to use the 98% lead 2% tin to help with fill for my cap n ball boolits.

I think Kaido casts and sells his cap n ball boolits that are 7-9 BHN.
 
In a .44 cal would someone use .451 or .454? Sorry for all of the novice questions guys but this is really sounding like an interesting and ADDICTIVE hobby.
 
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