Whats the best reloading press

Eppie said:
I figured that I could always use a progressive press as a single stage until I got comfortable with each step and then wanted more bullets faster. Three years later I'm glad that I chose a progressive press because once you've got the basics down it's the only way to go in my book.
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This depends on the machine. A Dillon 550, being manually indexed, is easy to use as a single-stage. The Lee Classic Turret can also be set up for manual indexing. On one that won't let you defeat automatic indexing, you have to have two stations in a row that you can move the components in or out of. Awkward on some of them.

Eppie said:
A word or warning, if you go with a progressive press, use ball powder. I got frustrated and wasted time and money trying to make stick powder work. It won't measure well and will give you grief.
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That depends on what you were expecting to have happen. Do stick powders meter to the exact tenth of a grain? Not normally, no. But the reason is the cylindrical grains can pack in different geometries, while spheres cannot. On the other hand, as stick powders pack tighter, their ignition rate decreases, so there is some self-compensation to this and if you pick the right powder for your chambering and bullet weight it can work very well. Hatcher remarked that the National Match ammunition (.30-06) he loaded one year used a long stick powder that could only be dispensed by the arsenal loading machines to an extreme spread of 1.7 grains, yet it proved to produce more accurate ammunition than another, similar burn rate powder with finer grains that he tried that could be dispensed to an extreme spread of just 0.6 grains. Competitors who pulled the ammo complained about the weight spread, but it was used to set several records that year.

I have pulled down Federal Gold Medal Match .308 Win ammunition loaded with Sierra 168 grain MatchKings and found an extreme spread of about 0.4 grains within each lot. It uses IMR 4064. I also pulled down some Winchester Supreme Match ammo made about fifteen years ago, also loaded with the 168 grain Sierra MatchKing at that time and using a charge of 748. It's charge weights had an extreme spread that was an astonishingly tiny 0.05 grains (I used a lab scale to measure that). But it never had the accuracy of the Federal load.

So this is a tricky thing. Charge weight alone is not always the determining factor. The Norma manual, for example, says a powder kept and loaded in over 80% RH will produce about 12% lower peak pressure than a sample from the same lot stored in low RH. The bulk density of the powder also increases about 1-1.5% in high RH, but that's not enough to account for the pressure change; that's down to interaction with the water.

With stick powders, if you pick the right one for your chambering and bullet weight, you can sometimes get excellent charge weight compensation by the change in ignition rate with change in packing density. This is why volumetric dispensing sometimes produces better ammunition accuracy than charge weighing.

Incidentally, if the above bothers you about stick powder, you can get both close weight and volumetric dispensing of stick powder using the specially designed JDR Quick Measure. They make an adapter that works with Dillon presses to replace the Dillon powder dispenser.

Eppie said:
I choose to go with the Hornady Lock-n-Load AP because I liked the bushing system that makes changing caliber/dies a snap. I'm not sure if you can use other maker's dies with the Dillon? If you're locked into their dies that should be a deal breaker. Many of the best dies are not made by Dillon.
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Only the Dillon Square Deal press, which is only for handgun and short, straight wall carbine ammunition, uses special dies. All the other Dillon presses have the standard 7/8×14 die threads and can use any brand of die. The Dillon pistol dies have a somewhat more generous mouth radius than some other brands, which avoids case mouths catching on them when everything is vibrating and shaking from going fast. That's the only issue I'm aware of with standard dies in the Dillon 550, 650, and 1050 presses.
 
I own no fewer than 22 presses, imagine the noise, I step out to start loading and all those presses are hollering; "pick me, pick me!". I have one press that looks like a spider doing push ups when it put it through its paces, in a review of presses in the 50 there was nothing that could be said about the press that was good. I found this press in NAPA VALLEY at a flea market, the vendor was selling used kitchen appliances and equipment. He was selling the press as a juicer for lemons and oranges etc., I could not convince him it was a reloading press and if it worked the way he described it would have to be mounted upside down and (there were so many pieces missing:confused:) he was missing the bowl and squeezer.

Before the Internet Hearter made some interesting presses, I like the 2 ram, turret and 'U' models. They also made the Super 3. they made a lot of them, there is a disadvantage to the shell holders, I know, there are adapter kits, problem, the RCBS shell holder was not designed to work/function on a Herter press.

I only have one Lee press, I do not use it because I only have one of them.

F. Guffey
 
I started reloading with two presses: a Dillon 550b for pistol and small rifle, and a single stage for big rifle and magnum pistol.

The Single Stage, I started with a Rock Chucker but didn't like it and sold it to a buddy to fund a Redding Big Boss II.

I like the single stage for more precision, easier to switch calibers and works great. I added an auto eject system from Inline Fab and that speeds up production to such a level that I may have skipped the Dillon had I known how fast it would be.

I do love the Dillon though. I usually load up 500 or 1000 rounds of handgun at a time. I bought extra primer tubes and fill up a bunch in advance and just go like crazy. the machine takes a little time to figure out but is worth the trouble IMO.

I use my Big Boss 80% of the time though and that's the truth.
 
I have no idea what's the best press but I started using a Dillon 550B after loading on a single stage for nearly 50 years. I load .38, .45 and 9MM on it. Still use a Lyman turret press for rifle and misc. pistol. You kinda need both. I have 3 heads with powder measures on them so change over isn't a big deal. The 550 is not as fast as a 650 with case and bullet feeder, if you're feeding cases and bullets by hand it isn't gonna be a lot faster than a 550. 550 is a much simpler machine. Check out what the case feeder and bullet feeder cost, I don't need them. I shoot about 100 to 200 rounds per week so I load 500 to 1000 of a caliber at a time( I prolly got 2000 rounds of .45 on hand. Not so many 9 and .38. Extra primer tubes help production, recently bought a primer tube filler, it's ok too. I have Dillon dies for .45 and .38, using RCBS on 9MM. If I had it to do over I'd use all RCBS. The Dillon dies are good but adjusting the bullet seating die is a pain.
My 2 cents. I'm not a big fan of Lee stuff, I've had better luck with Rcbs, Hornady and Lyman.
 
The Dillon dies are good but adjusting the bullet seating die is a pain.
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I agree! I love the consistent performance of the Dillon dies including the seater and the reversible seating stem in great but I really like a Micrometer adjustment and use Forster Competition seaters on my Dillon now for several calibers. Really a nice improvement and the consistency is even better than before.

With that and an adjustment dial on the Dillon powder measure, I am a happy reloader.
 
Guys


U do realize that the OP's question was from 2013??


Probably already purchased by now .... Probably on his second or third press.... :p
 
Probably already purchased by now .... Probably on his second or third press....
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I takes most people more than one press to decide what is the best for them. If I was to start over, I would have a Forster Co-Ax and a Dillon 650XL on the bench.

I have a 650XL and a RockChucker and I have sold a 1050 and sold or broke some Lees, Lyman and a few others over the years.

I'd probably say that a Dillon 550 is the press that will serve most people the best over the long haul.
 
Did you notice most of the presses I mentioned were made 40+ years before he asked the question?
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Ya, but where is he going to find a 40 year old press for sale? ;)
 
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I think Mr. Guffey already gave an example. Estate sales are another. In the main, these presses are way overbuilt to keep them dimensionally rigid and not because they have to be that strong, so they don't often wear out.

I suppose I should mention my favorite press for rifle is the Forster Co-ax press.
 
What is the best press?
The answer is different depending on your use, your wallet, and your desire.
If you want to make a lot of ammo that is great for punching paper at the local rand or popping tin cans up at your favorite camping site; have a nearly inexhaustible pocket book and you use a moderate number of different cartridges then a Dillon might be what you want. Here is the good and bad about the Dillon presses:
bad;
1. They are expensive to buy and expensive to change calibers.
2. They are more complicated to set up.
3. They use an aluminum base that is weaker than the rest of the press -I have seen failures.
4. Auto feed devices for primers cases and powder charging limit accuracy and sometime the functionality of ammo.
good;
1. They have a fault free warranty - the cracked base will be replaced.
2. They can produce a lot of ammo in a short period of time.
3. The come with prestige. They are sold as the best and carry that reputation.

If you want a press that will last several lifespans and aren't concerned about making more than 400 rounds a week, are meticulous about weighing powder charges or checking each step of the process then one of the top of the line single stage presses might be the one you want. Honady, Lyman and RCBS make some of the best in the $300 to $500 dollar range for the kit or $150 to $350 dollar range for just the press.
I will talk about the RCBS but it fits the others as well:
bad;
1. The priming mechanism on the press is not worth using - buy a hand primer with a tray so you don't have to handle primers.
2. Catching spent primers is poorly engineered. Keep a cardboard box under the press to keep them off the floor.
3. It is only moderately fast in making cartridges. Speed is more dependent on the routine you use than on the press. 20,000 to 30,000 cartridges a year is not hard in 4 to 6 hours a week.
Good;
1. You can load anything you want with the possible exception of 50 BMG.
2. It only costs the price of a new set of dies to change calibers with the addition of a shell holder sometimes.
3. The price is in the moderate range and affordable for most people. Occasionally you can find prices under $50 for used presses.
4. The RCBS is made of iron and steel. It will outlast most families.
5. It has a no fault warranty and customer service is supreme.
6. It takes up little bench space.
7. You can form brass and swage lead bullets with it if you want.
8. Very low maintenance.

The low cost presses. Every manufacturer has these. Some are made of iron and steel and some are made of aluminum and steel. Some are better made to last and others have enough slop built in to them that they are barely usable.
Typically these are limited by size as to what you can load on them. Some are a good value and others are just a cheap way to get into reloading. I have my prejudices and opinions but I won't share them here. The least expensive way to get into reloading for a single cartridge is the Lee Loader in a box. It comes with everything needed to reload one cartridge except the brass, bullets, powder and primers. You need a mallet or a small arbor press to make it work. For a price about the same as a set of dies you can make usable ammo. The loads you can choose are listed on a paper card that comes with the kit.
 
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UncleNick wrote:
Estate sales are another
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Three ways to find a 40+ year old press...

1. Troll the garage sales in the greater Napa Valley area, a blossoming hotbed of closet ammo reloader's. Apparently they must be building up a supply to trim the herd of hippies that frequent the downtown Napa veteran's park.

or

2. Hang around outside Uncle Nicks residence for a few years and wait for the black hearse to show up; wait another two weeks, then look for the estate sale signs.

or

3. Call Mike Wolfe: (563) 265-3939
 
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I second the Forster Co-ax. I have a Rock Chucker Supreme from the 70's I bought as my first and that would be my second favorite. It needs to find a new home......
 
I have been trying to get reloaders on reloading forums to push them self's away from the key board and crawl under the reloading bench to watch the RCBS press lock up, go into a bind etc. I can not get them to measure the amount of cam over they claim the Rock Chucker has; no luck.

I let myself be know as a collector, I collect anything, pots, pans tools, pictures, guns, books, records, coffee grinders, old stuff that goes in the kitchen, etc.. One day I was in Louisiana when one of the local fishermen informed me he heard I was a collector; I did not deny it so he instructed me to back up to a pile of stuff that was covered with a canvas. I am glad I did because now I am a collector of anchors, little Mar-shun looking things that are used to pull boats, barges and docks together.

Reloading press? Same thing; the reloader must push himself away from the key board and look, garage sales? I went to one garage sale that had reloading equipment, if there was anything there it was gone within one hour of opening. I did find an implement/tractor type jack that was original for $10.00, that made the effort worth the trip.

F. Guffey
 
I go with the what works.

Forster definitely would be my first choice starting out, but I have two Chuckers (one given) and Junior and happy enough with that.

But then I am a single press kind of guy, what works for me is not the same for someone else.
 
I have a CoAx and love it. It's what I started with and the only press I've reloading on. I can't imagine starting on a progressive. Those who do, and work it through successfully, are clearly better than me. I'll gladly admit that and give them their due. Kudos.

I enjoy the process so much and would hate to mechanize it to the point where it was merely a "factory" in my home. I feel every primer to make sure it was seated correctly, hand dip every charge using a scale, and do the plunk test/case gauge to check every round. Overkill? Yup, no doubt and I would be guilty if someone accused me of wasting time.

It's relaxing and I like doing it.
 
I've only been reloading for a bit over three years, so I won't try to tell anyone what is the best press. I will say that I started on a Lee single stage, and pretty much outgrew it in less than a year. However, once I established a procedure, I could easily produce 200-250 pistol rounds per hour on that press. Using a beam scale, no less. About half that number of rifle rounds.

I would respectfully suggest the OP look at turret presses. Again I can't really speak to which turret is better than another, but I started using a Redding T-7 about two years ago, and all I can say is, "wow! What a difference quality makes!" My suggestion is to do your best to test drive a few presses; a quality press can really make a difference in more than just the quality of the ammo made. It can influence how much you want to reload, and your overall enjoyment of the exercise. If you don't enjoy it, I promise you that you won't be reloading for very long.
 
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