what to do when your equipment no longer matches your skills?

Powder man started the ammunition topic. I'll add to it. Hand loading opens a new door to accuracy that factory ammo will never be capable of. Neck sizing, bullet seating so on and so forth. IF you don't already reload...now might be the time to start. I'm really surprised no one has elaborated on this more.
 
There will be wind and range estimation work and the course ranges from 300 yards to 1400 yards although it sounded as though we would be limited to 1000.
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A thousand yards is too far to a 223 and a 308 is running out of gas at that distance.

If you are going to shoot off bipods and sandbags and you are going to shoot 1000 yards, you are going to need a rifle that shoots under a MOA or you will be real frustrated.
 
The journey is as important as the detination for me

I can't shoot as well today as I could when I was only forty years old. But, I still enjoy shooting and spending "quality time" pursuing the sport. So, I have grown to appreciate the hunt more than the success. Same with shooting.

Working on the "perfect load" can take endless trips to the range and hours loading, reading, planning, etc. (and consume a fortune!!!! LOL Just trying out 20 different bullets from 45 to 60 grains sucked up about $400!!!!) And, eight or ten trips to the range. Then there were countless hours prepping 100 cases and loading them with a select group of variables... Four or five different powders (out of what 20-25 possibles?)

My point is....enjoy the journey from where you are to where you want to be... Look for improvements in yourself, your equipment and your loads....enjoy that aspect, the "looking" and enjoy the finding of each "perfect" improvement. Because, once you have a perfect shooter it will be "boring" with nothing left to accomplish.
 
Buzz, I can't tell if your post is tongue in cheek self deprecating humor or a thinly veiled slap upside my head so I'll give you the benefit of the doubt on the deal. All I know is the holes in the paper are tighter with different rifles than with mine despite the fact its the same fool pressing the loud button.
The guys for the course recommended going straight to the 300 mag but 308 will do also for the breadth and depth of the course. In keeping with my lack of ego shown here, I have no problem admitting I do not enjoy the big crackenboomers. Maybe its because I don't shoot them enough to become acclimated. Maybe its because I burned thousands of rounds of 22 lr focusing on getting rid of a flinch I developed at a very young age when I was made to shoot a heavy loaded 12 gauge before I wanted to shoot it. Maybe its because I've only shot lighter weight 7 mags, 300's, etc which naturally are more punishing. I don't know. I know I gravitate towards the smaller pills with my 25-06 being the largest I shoot with any regularity. Do I expect to drop at deer at a grand? Of course not. Would I like to tap the steel at that distance? Sure!
I am looking forward to learning from some people that should be qualified to teach.
Also, for whomever mentioned reloading, I have been reloading for long enough to not blow myself up but not nearly long enough to dispense more than generalized advice.
 
Reloading is expensive and does require time. Lots of it. So considering you do roll your own and are still displeased there are many other avenues as mentioned above. Any action can be tuned and trued. Lots of barrel options out there. That's the way I would go before parting with anything. All of my firearms are special to me and I'm greedy and don't want to get rid of any. But I do understand smith work is very costly too and might not feel as right as a whole new toy. Good luck sir. Please update us!!
 
I looked at your previous posts and I am a fan of your "brand of choice" as well. I have seen a few tack driving rifles but most of them were not quite MOA on a good day. I was raised to think there was nothing but this brand, and while I still have all the faith in the world in their handguns, I have learned that there are better shooting rifles out there. However their new budget priced rifle is out-shooting their more expensive offering. If your looking for out of the box accuracy with a reasonable budget, I recomend a Savage. The older Remingtons have a great rep for accuracy but you may find the newer ones to be sort of hit and miss, literally and figuratively.
 
mdd said:
As time progressed and money became more readily available, I upgraded scopes. Then triggers. Then started fine tuning ammo.
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I'd say by that sentence the OP rolls his own. However I looked at a few of his old post as well and while he uses a durable hunting rifle, I've never heard of one being a true tack driver without a ton of work. To the OP branch out and try a different brand, but don't give up your favorites either.
 
Speaking strictly for myself if I did not have confidence that my rifle/scope combination was better than I am I would get a better rifle/scope combination.
 
@ taylor-Missed that little gem didn't I. Anyway concerning the brand I'm a big follower too and the Single shot models I've heard to be more accurate than their bolt driven brethren. My dad has one in 222mag...its a tack driver. He also did a lot of work to it. Of course by nature singles are a little more accurate though and maybe bolts are your true passion.
 
Of course by nature singles are a little more accurate
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If you are referring to a breakdown style single shot such as the #1, that is most certainly NOT true.

While a mediocre bolt action may not shoot as good an exceptional single shot, generally speaking the bolt action is a more accurate design than a breakdown single. Thats not just my opinion, its proven fact.

But in the case of a single shot bolt action, I could agree with your statement.
 
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Steven what do you mean when you say break down. I wasn't aware the #1s were of that nature. Because the barrel mates to the receiver via threads? The fact that I do know is the one I've had the most experience with is very accurate. And my experience through life of firearms has proved most any single loading falling or otherwise hinged breech block weapon was more accurate than most bolts I've ever encountered. Just my experience.
 
I'll recant a bit I do agree that the bolt style action has the ability to be more accurate. 90% of all match rifles you see are bolts. The lock up and lock times are superior. But again my experience has been different. I will be humble and say I've never had the opportunity to compare a hot rod bolt to an equivalent single. The two singles I've had most experience with a very custom #1 and very custom low wall punch ragged holes all day. But I was forgetting about my sako L46...(which is regarded as one of the most accurate tools of all time) which might out do both on a bad day. So after some thought I must agree. Just don't overlook them
 
Sorry, forgot the #1 is indeed a falling block and not a breakdown or "hinged" style single shot. Never owned one and been awhile since I've been around one. But as far as single shots go the falling block is the most accurate design. And just to clarify I think the #1's are fine rifles, but there's a reason most benchrest target rifles are a bolt action single.
 
No biggie Steven I was trying hard to relate breakdown to the #1 ha ha. Yes the couple I've have experience with are very very accurate. But I wasn't thinking about the fine details of a bolt. Again I will have to end up agreeing with the notion. Like you said it isn't opinion its fact. Lock up is usually tighter and lock times shorter. I do have a huge soft spot for a falling block action though they are just super slick. And when I said hinged I was referring to the likes of a martini. Not a break open or anything similar. I have the pleasure to tinker with one of those regularly as well. Talk about sweet. I load for my brothers in 357 mag. Very accurate as well.
 
Regardless of which way I go, it will be stainless and synthetic. Also it will be a sporter contour barrel at least 22" but maybe 24" chambered for 22-250
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Savage offers the Weather Warrior model 116 in 22-250 with a 22" barrel.

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http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/models/
 
What Powderman said...

There are multiple parts of a weapon system that affect accuracy, and it can be all of them, some of them, or just one of them, that can affect accuracy from just a "teeny" bit each, to a whole bunch....

If your action is moving in the stock, it matters not how consistent your ammo is...or the precision of the fit of the components of the action, or the barrel itself. It's gonna shoot like crap...

There could be barrel issues, not visible without a borescope.

Some variables are easier to isolate and evaluate than others.
Is the action properly epoxy bedded into the stock, with pillars, and the barrel free-floated? If not, I'd certainly start there...

Production barrels vary widely in consistency and accuracy. If all else checks out, that's a common reason for not being able to achieve at least minute of angle accuracy with a factory rifle.

It takes major issues with an action for a rifle that's properly set up otherwise not to shoot moa or better with handloads- so that's not where I'd start. Blueprinting an action helps, but it's more fine-tuning.

Some rifles will shoot just about anything accurately, others will be pickier than a two-year old about it. But handloading is the cheapest (you're gonna buy ammo, anyway) way to rule out being "picky" about ammo as a cause of inaccuracy.

Of course, you'd have to be able to buy powder, primers, and bullets...
 
As I've grown more manure, and two cervical discs make their case for recoil reduction, I've had my epiphany. Reduce recoil. I can still shoot my '06 class rifles to 2MOA; however, I can shoot my 223 and 260 into less than 1/2MOA. Same goes with pistols. 357, 41, 44mags are ok. 44spl and 45LC and ACP are superb. Like SteveNCHunter, I love my Savage WW in 260.
 
I appreciate all of the helpful replies. I did not in any way post this to be self-congratulatory because I am not pleased about what all of this means. I have carried these rifles since I first started carrying a rifle. I am comfortable with their operation to a level that only comes after years of use. I knew by posting on this site that some would scoff at what I am saying. All I know is that the proof is printed on the targets and the proof tells me to look at other options whether it be training or "gadgets" as some referred to. Are there other facets to be worked on? Always. Range estimation, wind estimation, shooting from various field positions, etc etc etc. None of those, however, address the issue that I posted about originally which is a significant reduction in group sizes printed by a different brand of rifle when compared to my preferred brand. I mentioned signing up for a precision rifle clinic. Unfortunately I do not have the required caliber of rifle for the clinic. I don't own a 308, 300 mag, 338 lapua, or the like. So to take a class, I have to obtain more of the dreaded gadgets. Scope, rings, bases, and rifle will set me back a lot. Is it worth it? I don't know.
 
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