What smith solutions are viable here?

I agree with potentially counter boring the barrel. The action could probably be held in a lathe if a fixture was made to hold the receiver outside the head stock like a spider. That would make it easy to cut a concentric bore with a number of tools. But I wouldn't do anything until I saw how the gun shot. If it still groups well, I'd just keep it oiled and keep an eye on it myself. Your other option is to have it cut back slightly to a tighter and cleaner section of the bore and re crowned
 
It can be counterbored with an inside tool post grinder on a lathe. Just take about 0.002 mm at each pass and chrome plating should hold up and no lube should be needed to prevent overheating. That's going to be around 50 passes, but it's a short depth so you don't need to widen the counterbore appreciably, and so it won't take as long as you might think. A cylindrical grinding point will leave a symmetrical square crown. Its sharp edge, especially with chromium, will tend to cut cleaning patches, so you either want to have the grinding done with a conical tip point or decide you'll use pull-through cleaning from the breech.
 
Well, it seems I have some 'smith contacts and two options. Both of which I'd have to pay for....

The first is a barrel replacement. It may be possible to use a spare barrel and put it straight on but I'd lose the one I have. Straight swap.

The other is the counter bore.

The former doubtless more expensive, the latter cheaper but still the barrel has already suffered.

As explained, I'd have to pay either way.
Thoughts?
 
I have a pilotted cutter for recutting crown. If it was my rifle, I would use it. Just cut the new crown deeper (about 1mm) to remove the chipping. The only concern is the chrome. It may work as it is cutting the thin cross section.

-TL
 
As explained, I'd have to pay either way.
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It's hard to give advice without a price comparison. If I could get a new barrel for only a few dollars (Euro?) more than the counterbore, I may would go that route. If you save a good bit of money by counterboring to remove the damage, I would do that. I've shot a ton of Mosin Nagants, and a few of them had been counterbored. They seemed to shoot just as good, if not a bit better, than their full bore counterparts.
 
If you're not concerned about resale value do the counterbore...Shallow enough to have no affect on accuracy, get a precision target crown at the same time as the military crown is likely less than perfectly done/concentric.
 
If you're not concerned about resale value do the counterbore...Shallow enough to have no affect on accuracy, get a precision target crown at the same time as the military crown is likely less than perfectly done/concentric.
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I updated another threat connected to this rifle and I'm biting the bullet in that I'm going to pay the extra money to get a further rifle, transfer this one back to the shop and buy another one that they have whose rifling is not all gone. Mine was heavily worn. Net it works out at about €10 more than a counterbore and €30 over the cost of the original gun. The one I have in mind has far better rifling.

It turns out that the cost of these rifles is because they are used barrels reset in a reconditioned/new receiver. So they are barrels designed to handle full-auto which is good, but they've been shot and probably a fair bit, which is not so good.
 
^^
Surprising to me that they went to the expense of manufacturing semi-auto components (receivers, fcg's) to rebuild these for the civilian market- and did not include newly manufactured barrels as part of that process (as is most always done here in the US).

Slapping a shot-out barrel into a rebuilt firearm makes no sense.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=F1CVZ2008
 
Surprising to me that they went to the expense of manufacturing semi-auto components (receivers, fcg's) to rebuild these for the civilian market- and did not include newly manufactured barrels as part of that process (as is most always done here in the US).
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I suspect the receiver is also from original guns.
TBH, I don't know anymore.

Once I get it, I'd be happy to post pics of various bits if you give me guidance as to what to photograph to give an idea of what is used and what is not.

All I remember is that the internals looked pretty crisp with little signs of use on the rails. Then again, at the time I thought it was all new, so perhap my brain just didn't register signs of wear...:confused:

I do remember that the striker shaft had peening from the pin strikes, but it was just the shallowest of indentations. And I think that striker is aluminium as it is very light.

As for the semi-auto trigger group, there are something like 3 bits in there that they had to make, so no major expense. It clearly was financially worth it because they have been selling these off at very low prices. €330 is VERY cheap for a semi auto on the Estonian market.
 
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