What sear/disco set?

G

Gunslick

New member
So I am looking at ordering right now, I want to fit a sear and disco and hammer to my Springfield 1911 just to have the higher quality parts. So far I am thinking Harrison and Consulting. Have talked with him quite a bit via email and want to keep the factory grip safety so I am thinking of this set...
https://shop.harrisoncustom.com/hd-130-retro-ignition-set

I am sticking with the spur hammer, also have the stones on the way but he says there should be minimal fitting but I am hoping to have to fit some for the experience. I want this kit because it seems to be of very high quality.

Should I go with Cylinder and Slides ignition kit or this Harrison one, or do you have any other reccomendations and also what sear spring should I go with?

..is Harrison any good or what? Going to purchase a sear spring from him too.
 
..is Harrison any good or what? Going to purchase a sear spring from him too.
Click to expand...

Seriously...? Harrison's reputation and the length of his wait list speak for itself. His work and his parts are some of the best in the business. I personally believe they are better than C&S and I like and have used C&S in 1911 and BHP builds.

If you need to ask is Harrison any good it makes one question the questioner. ;)
 
Whoa..okay. Thanks I think. Harrison it is. Ya my stones are on the way. What is funny about that? I didn't know....hence..the question.
 
Whoa..okay. Thanks I think. Harrison it is. Ya my stones are on the way. What is funny about that? I didn't know....hence..the question.
Click to expand...

I would be very careful prepping those parts. If you unfamilar with the process. I am willing to bet they ship with better angles from Harrison then most people can put on them by hand. If you do not know what you are doing you can ruin the set. If I wanted to practice on something for the experience I would practice on the SA parts. Nothing worse than ruining a $175 set of parts during a learning experience. IMHO YMMV
 
I agree^ Use the SA parts to practice on. So long as your pin positions for the sear and hammer are correctly located, you have in the Harrison parts a good trigger job out of the box.
 
What does Harrison say:

The sear is shaped to minimize excess material, reducing weight. The standard sear nose features a polished primary angle and breakaway angle. The TR sear uses a .404" radius with an escape angle. Fully polished surfaces mean smooth operation in the points of contact between the disconnector, sear and hammer. While I don't care to use the term "drop-in" and all that it implies, these ignition sets are prepped and polished and many folks install these parts that way with satisfactory results.

Ignition Sets available in either "in the white" carbon steel, stainless steel, or coated with black IonBOND DLC with either the traditional two angle sear or the "TR" True Radius sear with tool steel disconnector.

Again, I do not advertise my parts as drop-in. There are just too many variables in dimensions and tolerances between frames and the associated parts involved to really make that claim and it be true. You should be able to obtain a satisfactory trigger pull with these parts but any or all of these standard jobs that are involved in a 1911 trigger job are to be expected and must be dealt with satisfactorily. This includes checking & adjusting the parallelism of pin holes and their squareness to the frame, checking & adjusting the diameter of sear and hammer pins and their fit to those parts, checking and adjusting for even bearing contact on both hammer hooks with sear nose, checking and adjusting for adequate engagement in the depth of sear nose to hammer hooks, adjusting correct tension setting of sear spring leaves, checking for adequate take-up resulting in correct operation of captive half-cock notch and any adjustment necessary to ensure it’s correct operation, correct operation and adjustment of over travel stop, correct operation and re-fitting of thumb safety, correct operation and re-fitting of grip safety, correct operation and adjustment of any firing pin blocking safety system.
Click to expand...

There is a lot more to getting a superb trigger on a 1911 than passing an Arkansas stone over a few surfaces. The surfaces of the Harrison parts should be good to go. I would not polish them if I was using them. They are drop in if the rest of the pistol is in spec but that is where the rub is.

The chances of the pistol being 100% in spec is almost impossible. It will be withing tolerance. Those tolerances might or might not stack in a way that will effect the trigger pull once you install the new parts. You may have to tweak the ignition system parts to get to perfection. I personally would not include running a stone on the surfaces of the Harrison parts. You really will not know until you get in there.

At this point I have to ask do you have a copy of The Colt .45 automatic: A shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen Vols I & II? Do you understand the geometry of the ignition system of the 1911? I own the manuals but am no expert and I don't do my own trigger jobs unless it is a pure fun gun! ;)
 
Then I would put the stones away and install the parts. Check their fit and their function and then adjust what needs adjusting based on the pull. Again I would be willing to bet that the surfaces will not need to be altered but that does not mean they are drop in.

Please don't take this the wrong way but it seems like you are a problem looking for a solution when it comes to your 1911. Some of your improvements and upgrades have not seemed to improve your pistol. One has to ask why you think you need to swap out the ignition parts? Is the trigger sub-standard? What do you believe the Harrison parts are going to get you that the SA parts are not providing. Honest question. LOL :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
Pardon me for speaking up. Gunslick is the only one that can really answer your question but there’s lots of folk viewing these threads and butting in is kind of what we do.

I think he would like to be able to speak knowledgeably about all the different options, add in parts and replacement parts from experience and not just from ‘what he’s heard’. In another thread he’s mentioned a possibility of becoming a gunsmith and doing high end custom work. As a potential customer I’d applaud his willingness to do his trial and error stuff on his own gun before he does any work on mine.

I have a philosophical disagreement with his methods in that he doesn’t see much use in formal gunsmith classes whereas if I was younger that is certainly the way I would go.

The following has been brought up in different threads (thanks to WVsig) and if I were younger and has some spare cash I think it would be a hoot and a half to do this:

Garthwaite's pistol class.

http://www.garthwaite.com/services/classes.php

For $3650.00 you get the following. You will end up with a pistol you built that will be Garthwaite quality. If you are not familiar with Mr Garthwaite he is one of the best pistol smiths alive. 2004 Pistolsmith of the year and on the board of the APG, American Pistol Guild.
Click to expand...
Once again though I realize I’m speaking out of turn.
 
DaleA you and me both want to take that class. He knows how to built a custom pistol. It is not a 1911 but you can see the quality of his work. There is a lot to doing custom work right. IMHO







 
WVSig

To WVSig. I actually really like the pull my stock ignition parts give me. Its the "MIM" thing I was trying to get away from, I have already purchased a few sears and hammers and DISCONNECTORS to work on my self the Harrison kit I was going to drop in and see how it functions then go from there, along with the sear spring he sells on his website. I am only looking for a 4-5lb trigger pull because this is my EDC. I want high quality in everything I do as far as hobbies go especially the one that could save my life some day, god forbid that situation ever come about. I would take that class but am thinking of taking Larry Vicker's class if he even still does it. I have taken the Rifle Dynamics Ak class but already knew how to build those, but I did learn a lot and it was worth every penny. Yes I am going to be a gunsmith someday soon, have been building and working on my own guns ever since I could pull a trigger. I seem to be bugging some of you with my continuous questions and some seem to understand me a little better. I mean well I am just seeking information from real people who have been there and have done that. I am the kinda guy who HAS to do it himself first-maybe many times, just to learn the HOW-TO. This forum has been of great help and is probably one of the best out there. The b.s. is minimal if at all here and I like it.
 
Good, purchased retro ignition set, extreme duty hammer strut, wolff sear spring. Should be good to go and done after this.
 
Gunslick, how much did you pay for your pistol? And you're looking at throwing $200 worth of parts at it just to remove parts that will last for tens (if not hundreds) of thousands of rounds? Doesn't make sense. But ...

It's your money to spend as you wish. Your link doesn't take us to one Harrison product, it takes us to a list of products. Which specific set are you looking at? Are you looking for the 2-angle sear or the true radius sear? If you don't know the difference, you don't "understand the system."
 
The TR sear is the one I am after and it comes with the Retro Ignition set. What is all this crap about MIM then being straight garbage and not a good fit for ignition parts for a 1911?
 
Ordered Parts

Okay so I ordered the Retro ignition set with TR sear, Extreme duty thumb safety to fit to the new ignition set, colt sear spring, Extreme duty hammer strut and pin, and Extreme service Trigger from Harrison Consulting. I know some of you are unsure about my decisions but my Stainless Springfield 1911A1 will be one bad ass 1911 when I am complete my project. Looking to get a 4-5 lb pull because it is my carry piece, also ordered 1000 rounds to run the new ignition set and check for malfunctions. No more MIM after this!...not that MIM is all that bad..

Look forward to all comments.
 
Your money spend as you wish. I think the factory MIM parts would have last you years . The bad MIM is more internet bull. Than real truth.
Of course you could have passed all this extra expense and bought a Colt. To start with:D
 
You seem cyclical. Your first posts were related to concerns about MIM. Then members here told you it wasn't the issue you thought, if I remember correctly you had a friend that was a machinist that even examined the MIM parts including for hardness and said they were surprisingly good, and now we're back to, "No more MIM after this!" I get doing things yourself. I get trying to learn. What I don't get are people accepting evidence and then contradicting themselves.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top