What kind of knife set will I need to hunt?
- Thread starter brockgl
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MeekAndMild
New member
Dish soap and somebody else's toothbrush.
I always carry a leatherman tool at work, and in the field. The last new tool I bought has a guthook, and a bone saw on it. Bone saw works perfect for cutting through the brisket on deer, and the guthook is awesome. I own countless knives, but the leatherman is the only one I carry every day. You do not need a huge knife to field dress deer. What you need is a SHARP knife!
Case, buck, gerber, puma, all make good blades with good steel, it is just like guns, you can do the same thing with a ruger, that you can with a weatherby.
Case, buck, gerber, puma, all make good blades with good steel, it is just like guns, you can do the same thing with a ruger, that you can with a weatherby.
W. C. Quantrill
New member
Turkeyhead
Yes all the CRKT knives are made in Taiwan. I know Rod Bremer personally, and have been to their plant in Portland as well as Benchmade and Lone Wolf. I used to write for a couple knife magazines in a previous life. Rod spends quite a bit of time in China overseeing the Quality Control on his knives, and making sure that the heat treats are proper.
My every day carry is a CRKT Carson M21-14. It isnt designed the way I'd like for a hunting knife but it opens faster than a switchblade and it is a good all around general knife. Sometimes I carry a large Benchmade AFO auto. It is handy for a one handed knife, but captures the attention of the fish and game nazis.
I have handled most of the knives of the name brands, and for the money spent there isnt a better deal out there than the CRKT knives.
The most versatile, and comfortable knife in the hunting camp is the CRKT Bwana, a large folder by Russ Kommer. It has the drop point, it is an open frame design and all the crap goes on thru and drops out. It has proper sweep to skin and enough straight edge to slice. It is a high carbon 420J stainless and will do a complete butchering job with little touchup.
http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_purpose/hunting/crkt_kommer_alaska_bwana.html
Several have asked about getting the gunk out of a folder. That is simple. Dont buy a closed back folder. I love the Case Sod Buster, but it is closed back and traps stuff in it. The Buck 110 is probably the design that got the folder craze going, but it is closed, and it has that nasty clip point. The new knives are open designs. There is no spring along the spine, it is open. Stuff doesnt collect in there. When ya get home, rinse it out and you are good to go.
Another feature I like about the CRKT knives, especially the Kommer designs are the hollow ground blades. The hollow grind does not drag in the meat like a flat grind. Did I mention that I do not see a clip point knife having any practical use in a hunting camp as far as field dressing is concerned? A clip point is a sharp up turned point. Its only function is to poke holes in guts and fill your body cavity with digested $#!t, and ruin your meat. Select a good main knife and a back up and you dont need a knife system.
Sharpeners are one thing not mentioned here. In this arena there are two sharpeners, the CRKT and the Lansky that are worth mentioning. They will form up your cutting edge at the proper angle and hone it smoothe enough to hold it. They are also light. Weight is a main factor on all that you do in and around the hunting camp.
Yes all the CRKT knives are made in Taiwan. I know Rod Bremer personally, and have been to their plant in Portland as well as Benchmade and Lone Wolf. I used to write for a couple knife magazines in a previous life. Rod spends quite a bit of time in China overseeing the Quality Control on his knives, and making sure that the heat treats are proper.
My every day carry is a CRKT Carson M21-14. It isnt designed the way I'd like for a hunting knife but it opens faster than a switchblade and it is a good all around general knife. Sometimes I carry a large Benchmade AFO auto. It is handy for a one handed knife, but captures the attention of the fish and game nazis.
I have handled most of the knives of the name brands, and for the money spent there isnt a better deal out there than the CRKT knives.
The most versatile, and comfortable knife in the hunting camp is the CRKT Bwana, a large folder by Russ Kommer. It has the drop point, it is an open frame design and all the crap goes on thru and drops out. It has proper sweep to skin and enough straight edge to slice. It is a high carbon 420J stainless and will do a complete butchering job with little touchup.
http://www.agrussell.com/knives/by_purpose/hunting/crkt_kommer_alaska_bwana.html
Several have asked about getting the gunk out of a folder. That is simple. Dont buy a closed back folder. I love the Case Sod Buster, but it is closed back and traps stuff in it. The Buck 110 is probably the design that got the folder craze going, but it is closed, and it has that nasty clip point. The new knives are open designs. There is no spring along the spine, it is open. Stuff doesnt collect in there. When ya get home, rinse it out and you are good to go.
Another feature I like about the CRKT knives, especially the Kommer designs are the hollow ground blades. The hollow grind does not drag in the meat like a flat grind. Did I mention that I do not see a clip point knife having any practical use in a hunting camp as far as field dressing is concerned? A clip point is a sharp up turned point. Its only function is to poke holes in guts and fill your body cavity with digested $#!t, and ruin your meat. Select a good main knife and a back up and you dont need a knife system.
Sharpeners are one thing not mentioned here. In this arena there are two sharpeners, the CRKT and the Lansky that are worth mentioning. They will form up your cutting edge at the proper angle and hone it smoothe enough to hold it. They are also light. Weight is a main factor on all that you do in and around the hunting camp.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Bits and pieces: The quality of a knife's steel oughta let you field dress the deer and get it at least halfway skinned before you notice any degradation of the edge. Ever notice how fast cutting paper takes the edge off a knife? Deer hair is much the same. Javelina is worse. Get the blade under the skin and cut from the inside out, as much as possible. Don't saw through the hair if you can avoid that.
Anyhow, a semi-fine stone for a touch-up oughta let you get the job done.
The Lansky sharpener is a Good Thing, particularly when setting up the angles on blades. I use 30 degrees for a field knife. 20 degrees for fine work.
Ever watch a butcher use a steel on his carving knife? That backing-and-forthing rounds the edge area, which is fine for a while, but the angle gets bigger. You wind up eventurally with a sharp wedge, not a sharp knife. Periodically I go back to the Lansky to re-shape.
My personal opinion is that a lotta folks worry too much about knives. One guy I know, quite often doesn't bother. He hunts where there is a lot of chert. Kill a buck, pop a couple of rocks together--and he has a flint knife. Works good. Sorta awesome to watch. Helps to know what you're doing, of course, but after fifty years...
Anyhow, a semi-fine stone for a touch-up oughta let you get the job done.
The Lansky sharpener is a Good Thing, particularly when setting up the angles on blades. I use 30 degrees for a field knife. 20 degrees for fine work.
Ever watch a butcher use a steel on his carving knife? That backing-and-forthing rounds the edge area, which is fine for a while, but the angle gets bigger. You wind up eventurally with a sharp wedge, not a sharp knife. Periodically I go back to the Lansky to re-shape.
My personal opinion is that a lotta folks worry too much about knives. One guy I know, quite often doesn't bother. He hunts where there is a lot of chert. Kill a buck, pop a couple of rocks together--and he has a flint knife. Works good. Sorta awesome to watch. Helps to know what you're doing, of course, but after fifty years...
The gunk in my Buck 110 is no problem. I just wrap a thin/thread bare dish towel on the end of a butter knife and wash it with soapy suds. Once home I give 'er a dunkin' in a bleach and water solution than rinse in hot water one more time. The only food poisoning issues I ever had were from eating restaurant food!:barf:
Brent
Brent
Do you have to floss your knives when you're done, too?
I used to use 2-bladed folding hunters or SodBusters, but no stainless steel blades. My main knife has always been a 4" fixed blade made from spring steel. You can get almost the same thing by getting a mid-sized caping knife or any small fixed blade knife. Grohmann makes real knives designed and used by professionals, and they use good steel. Queen Cutlery knives are outstanding. If you can find one of the carbon steel Old Timers, they are pretty good.
Actually, it straightens the edge and work hardens it. And yes, it will have to be resharpened, but a lot less than you would think. Butchers, meat cutters, and slaughterhouse workers keep their knives razor sharp with a steel, and they work all day long with the same blade.
BrunoNorway
New member
You will need a good allaround knife that is both sharp and havy, and even to hunt with, if it comes to that...
this is a Native-Norwegian knife.
It is specialy developed for the Norwegian Costal Rangers and it is also used for CQ self-defence.
It is perfect for meat...
this is a Native-Norwegian knife.
It is specialy developed for the Norwegian Costal Rangers and it is also used for CQ self-defence.
It is perfect for meat...
Straight from Cabelas' website although the pic didn't come through. This kit is pretty much the bee's knees. A friend of mine has it and I plan to buy one. Has a standard fixed knife, caping knife, and compact saw in one well made scabbard. I don't think you would be unhappy.Look it up!
elkman06
Outdoor Edge Kodi Skinner and Kodi-Pak
The complete system for field dressing, skinning, caping and quartering of big game animals. These precision knives includes a deep-bellied skinning knife with a 4-1/2" blade and gut hook, a caping knife with a 2-1/2" blade and a 6" T-handle diamond-cut saw. Each has non-slip Kraton® handles and shaving-sharp chrome-moly 8A stainless steel blades for excellent edge retention and performance. All fit into a full-grain leather belt sheath. The Kodi Skinner and Kodi Caper also are available separately.
elkman06
Outdoor Edge Kodi Skinner and Kodi-Pak
The complete system for field dressing, skinning, caping and quartering of big game animals. These precision knives includes a deep-bellied skinning knife with a 4-1/2" blade and gut hook, a caping knife with a 2-1/2" blade and a 6" T-handle diamond-cut saw. Each has non-slip Kraton® handles and shaving-sharp chrome-moly 8A stainless steel blades for excellent edge retention and performance. All fit into a full-grain leather belt sheath. The Kodi Skinner and Kodi Caper also are available separately.
armedandsafe
New member
I carried a Western or Case clip point, 5 1/2" hump back until I saved enough money to get what I wanted. I modified one of Bo's early designs and he made me this in the early 60s. I've been told it was the last custom he made by himself. Dunno about that, but I've used this one for everything since then and love it.
Four inch blade, swept belly, straight back edge, radiused (sharpened) point, hump back, left-handed. I've done everything from Crappie to PolarBear with it.
Pops
Four inch blade, swept belly, straight back edge, radiused (sharpened) point, hump back, left-handed. I've done everything from Crappie to PolarBear with it.
Pops
oneounceload
Moderator
Check out the knives at A.G.Russell - he has a lot of info on blade steel, etc...440 will hold an OK edge, but is much easier to resharpen than a long-edge holding steel like A2 or D2 or ATS34 - so there is a tradeoff to consider....make sure you get a good sharpener to resharpen it in the field - get one that won't mess up the blade angle.
I have many folders, use a small lockback pocket for fine trimming, but prefer an old US-made Schrade fixed blade about 3-3-1/2" long - easier to clean
I have many folders, use a small lockback pocket for fine trimming, but prefer an old US-made Schrade fixed blade about 3-3-1/2" long - easier to clean
I doesn't have to cost a fortune. I have made several knives as gifts, out of sawblades and files. My skinning knife is home-made. My Daughter's knife and hatchet are home-made (4-H project). My own hunting knife was found in a drawer at my grandparents house- I used it to scrape paint ther as a kid. It is hard to sharpen, but holds an edge really well. I'm sure it has been used to gut more deer than I have ever seen.
What do you NEED? IMHO, all you really need is a straight bladed knife with a sturdy enough blade to be driven through the seam in the pelvic bone (Note: this seam fuses on older bucks, and a hatchet becomes a nice thing to have..... ) of a deer. It has to hold an edge long enough to field dress the deer. Stopping to sharpen your blade when you are up to your elbows in blood in freezing temps is not a good thing! That said, it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to field dress a deer...The blade does not need to be longer than 4 inches. Big "Bowie" knives are awkward to use inside the body cavity.
Other than your hunting knife, a hatchet is nice to have, as is a skinning knife, if you plan on skinning your own deer. A good butcher/boning knife and steel is necessary if you plan on doing your own processing, as is a large hacksaw (I use a fine toothed blade on my Sawsall, as Power Tools Rule!).
What do you NEED? IMHO, all you really need is a straight bladed knife with a sturdy enough blade to be driven through the seam in the pelvic bone (Note: this seam fuses on older bucks, and a hatchet becomes a nice thing to have..... ) of a deer. It has to hold an edge long enough to field dress the deer. Stopping to sharpen your blade when you are up to your elbows in blood in freezing temps is not a good thing! That said, it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to field dress a deer...The blade does not need to be longer than 4 inches. Big "Bowie" knives are awkward to use inside the body cavity.
Other than your hunting knife, a hatchet is nice to have, as is a skinning knife, if you plan on skinning your own deer. A good butcher/boning knife and steel is necessary if you plan on doing your own processing, as is a large hacksaw (I use a fine toothed blade on my Sawsall, as Power Tools Rule!).