What is *THE* snubby?
- Thread starter HKguy9
- Start date
bastiat...your bad, its got to be two tone and have 'thingee's to match...
Skunk- I think of a snubby ,as I am ol fart, as being a model 36. Blue, approx 2" bbl, wood grip, fix sight. variations include the 042 (like Irwin's) model 60 (stainless-big deal when this happened).in , 38 spl used as BUG, undercover... Plain simple basic tool that always worked.
At 47 I 've been known to still dove hunt with a single shot 12 ga too, for fun, with limits taken, so what do I know?
Skunk- I think of a snubby ,as I am ol fart, as being a model 36. Blue, approx 2" bbl, wood grip, fix sight. variations include the 042 (like Irwin's) model 60 (stainless-big deal when this happened).in , 38 spl used as BUG, undercover... Plain simple basic tool that always worked.
At 47 I 've been known to still dove hunt with a single shot 12 ga too, for fun, with limits taken, so what do I know?
Scandium info
Here is a link to an excellent little article on Scandium and its use in S&W revolvers.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/misc/airlitesc/index.html
The article also has interesting info on the S&T Airlite SC revolvers.
Rich
Here is a link to an excellent little article on Scandium and its use in S&W revolvers.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/misc/airlitesc/index.html
The article also has interesting info on the S&T Airlite SC revolvers.
Rich
If in doubt, get the basic stainless steel M60 and put a Tyler grip adapter or a set of Pachmayr, Hogue, or Uncle Mike's (now Butler Creek)"rubber" grips on it, if it doesn't already come with these.
The very lightweight Scandium/Titanium guns will carry easier in a pocket, but recoil is BAD and the dull finish isn't as pretty as is conventional stainless steel. You can add one of these later, once you have become familiar with snubs generally.
All major grip makers can furnish nice wooden, ivory, etc. grips for snubs, as they do for larger guns. I personally think that Craig Speigel (Speigle?) has the most practical and lovely. He also designed the Butler Creek revolver grips, but his own are in wood.
The M36 is fine if you want blue, and many good used ones are around. But I'd get a late model stainless one, because they're certified for Plus P ammo and they don't rust easily when carried close to the body in humid weather.
Lone Star
The very lightweight Scandium/Titanium guns will carry easier in a pocket, but recoil is BAD and the dull finish isn't as pretty as is conventional stainless steel. You can add one of these later, once you have become familiar with snubs generally.
All major grip makers can furnish nice wooden, ivory, etc. grips for snubs, as they do for larger guns. I personally think that Craig Speigel (Speigle?) has the most practical and lovely. He also designed the Butler Creek revolver grips, but his own are in wood.
The M36 is fine if you want blue, and many good used ones are around. But I'd get a late model stainless one, because they're certified for Plus P ammo and they don't rust easily when carried close to the body in humid weather.
Lone Star
Prodigalshooter
New member
We have a model 60 with the 2 1/8" barrel, but put Hogue tulipwood grips on it. Not very tactical, but you could always stick with the black rubber. These are great little revolvers, but I'd stay away from using full house .357 rounds, as they kick like a mule and have a heck of a muzzle flash. 38+p is pleasant to shoot and accurate. If you're not going to CCW, the 60 would be my reccomendation, if you are doing CCW, then go for one of the shrouded models. I personally would stay away from Scandium or Ti models, too light IMHO, the steel frame makes practice a pleasure & it's really NOT very heavy.
These are great little revolvers, but I'd stay away from using full house .357 rounds, as they kick like a mule and have a heck of a muzzle flash. 38+p is pleasant to shoot and accurate. If you're not going to CCW, the 60 would be my reccomendation, if you are doing CCW, then go for one of the shrouded models. I personally would stay away from Scandium or Ti models, too light IMHO, the steel frame makes practice a pleasure & it's really NOT very heavy.Attachments
don't shoot it's me
New member
I think skunk needs a detective speical...6 shots and the best tlooking snubbie made...
don't shoot it's me
New member
I'm with Frenchy. I like J-frames and carried them for many years and I'm currently carrying an SP101 which is also very good.
BUT-you simply can't beat a K-frame 2", particularly in smoothness of trigger pull, strength of design and grip and holster options. The only place it wins is in size. If that's not an issue, I'd go with the 2" K-frame.
Dammit, Frenchy, you need to stop showing that photo. Every time I see it, I kick myself for selling my M10 2"!!!!
Bob
BUT-you simply can't beat a K-frame 2", particularly in smoothness of trigger pull, strength of design and grip and holster options. The only place it wins is in size. If that's not an issue, I'd go with the 2" K-frame.
Dammit, Frenchy, you need to stop showing that photo. Every time I see it, I kick myself for selling my M10 2"!!!!
Bob
Coltdriver
New member
My carry gun for the past five years has been a M642 S&W. It was purchased as the ultimate for me. But while I still carry it, it isn't any longer what I consider best. I prefer the grip on a standard J frame, not the higher grip on the Centenial series (which are model numbers 042, 442, 642 and 640). The lower grip makes for easier concealment and more comfort in the appendix position which my spare tire no longer makes comfortable.
The light weight (16 oz) of the M642 is a double edged sword. Even a 19 oz. J frame is noticeably more comfortable to shoot.
For the ultimate snubnose if I could have no other, I'd buy an older, pre-.357 length cylinder, M36 in .38 Spl. and bob the hammer, buy a Tyler T grip and round the factory stocks if needed. Many of the factory stocks, at least on the guns in the 1980s were too squared off which makes for uncomfortable shooting. This would give me a balance of shootability and carryability and allow pocket or appendix carry with comfort.
If you like stainless, try the equivalent M60 in .38 special.
Having said that, those 2" M10s and M64s are calling my name.
The light weight (16 oz) of the M642 is a double edged sword. Even a 19 oz. J frame is noticeably more comfortable to shoot.
For the ultimate snubnose if I could have no other, I'd buy an older, pre-.357 length cylinder, M36 in .38 Spl. and bob the hammer, buy a Tyler T grip and round the factory stocks if needed. Many of the factory stocks, at least on the guns in the 1980s were too squared off which makes for uncomfortable shooting. This would give me a balance of shootability and carryability and allow pocket or appendix carry with comfort.
If you like stainless, try the equivalent M60 in .38 special.
Having said that, those 2" M10s and M64s are calling my name.
My ultimate snubby is a 2" S&W Model 10. I prefer it to the Model 66 because I don't like adjustable sights on a small gun and am willing to sacrifice .357 power in return. I prefer it to the Model 36 because of the better sights and larger size. I find the Chief Specials just too puny unless you put on Pachmayrs and that makes the gun a lot bigger. The Model 10 is easier to shoot with +P and a little action work (or even a set of Wolff springs) will make the gun much smoother than a 5 shot. The Colt Detective Special is another good one but I like the Model 10 or 64.
Paul
Paul
Swamp Yankee
New member
Big fan of the Colt snubbies.
My primary carry piece is a 2nd generation Colt Cobra. Detective Specials are well built too, but I prefer the light weight of the Cobra.
Take Care
My primary carry piece is a 2nd generation Colt Cobra. Detective Specials are well built too, but I prefer the light weight of the Cobra.
Take Care