What is going on with this gun?

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I have absolutely no experience with this handgun.
Which means I do not know what I am talking about!But I never let that stop me.All of the suggestions about initial clean/lube/and breakin are good.
Your intial malfunctions appear to be inadequate ejection,followed by a subsequent round being picked up.
OK,there is Extraction,and there is Ejection.There is an extractor,there is an ejector.
The extractor,draws the brass out of the chamber (1) and holds the brass on the bolt face for ejection.(2) Extractor tension and fine tuning CAN be a factor here,but,I'm a bit skeptical you would get 3 in a row.
Ejectors.Toss the brass out.You have inadequate ejection.Is it a spring loaded plunger?,or,more likely,a fixed blade ejector?
If it is a blade ejector,it COULD be a shortcoming of design,too short,or not correctly shaped.Ejector shape can cause the brass to hit the port,rather than pass out through it.

But IMO,the most likely problem,your slide is slightly short stroking.Its not smacking back quite hard enough.The ejector is not getting a chance to do its job.

A new gun has more friction.That slows the slide.Thick preservative grease can slow the slide.Brand new strong recoil spring can slow the slide.
Lower pressure ammo can slow the slide.Maybe its made for whatever they feed an UZI.White box or Blazer might not be up to speed.
And DO use a firm grip and locked wrists.
Ammunition variability is something pretty hard to produce a pistol for.If it can handle modern high performance 9mm +P+ ammo,it likely will shortstroke the bargain practice ammo in a new,tight gun

Could be as it runs in,knocks the texture off the blue on the running part,softens the recoil spring...It will work fine.
Try some zippier ammo.
I don't think you need any more replacements,you are just starting over.

We can expect whatever we want,but we might want to be realistic.
Manufacturing and production are different today than they were decades ago.

We used to revere Old Joe,"The Guy" with experience,skill,and the final tune and testfire before going out the door.

You might still get "Old Joe" with a hand fitted,semi-custom pistol.And you will pay over $1000.Maybe $2000.

Today,we have quality standards like ISO 9000.Its all about parts made to spec and assembled per the process.

They specifically DO NOT WANT "Old Joe".They don't want anyone filing any parts.When Old Joe drops dead or quits,they want the same product going out the door.
And for $400,or $500,or $600,you get something that went down an assembly line.

Like it or not,fact is,it may take a little fine tuning by a knowledgable smith to make it 100%.

This may come as a shock,but at least one prominent producer of AR type rifles,that you may proudly own due to its reputation,never gets test fired.
It is assembled and shipped.
By today's definition of "Quality",producing parts without variation is one key step.Not tampering with the parts or processes is another key step.In other words,hand fitting and tuning is not the way it is done anymore.

Hopefully,between design and uniform product,we get functionality.
 
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I picked a new replacement Jericho yesterday from my LGS. IWI really does cake on the anti rust grease on their new guns. I field-stripped it, cleaned it and lubed it. I'll be testing it out this weekend at the range...
Click to expand...

Anything that might be shipped overseas (and by ship) should be well coated to preserve it. Sea air can do nasty things to unprotected metal.

No manufacturer will guarantee their semi to run 100% right out of the box, after all, they have no idea what you will be running in it.

IF you get 100% right out of the box, consider it serendipity.

How many rounds to break it in? Depends on your standards. With an already proven gun, many people want a couple hundred flawless rounds with new ammo before they trust it with their lives.

Kahr says 200rnds for break in in the manual, for some of their guns.

Everyone has different ideas of what is enough, I ran 200rnds through one of the small Kahr .45s for a friend (he has nerve damage and can't shoot that much at once), had 3 malfunctions, all failure to fully close on a loaded round, and none in the last 50 rnds. He said that was good enough for him.

I don't think a 1% failure to eject within the first few hundred rounds is a reason to send a pistol back. Remember the gun is not just the gun, but a gun/ammo/shooter combination.

A consistent problem after a "reasonable" break in period is another matter. And I think 800 rnds should be enough that it should go back, PROVIDED you aren't using crap ammo to test it.
 
I agree with you HiBC and will not be sending this gun back to Davidson's if I continue to have the same problem, three guns is enough... My next step would be to find a local gunsmith to work on the gun but hopefully I won't have to do that.
 
Regarding factory testing, my glock came with two fired shells. That means that it functioned properly for the first two rounds.

As has been well stated, it doesn't mean that every round thereafter couldn't because the test fire broke the firing pin.

Short stroking is very likely the cause, but it may still be an ejector problem.

I can't remember, have you tried 147 grain loads? Do so, and try a box of +p rounds of the same weight. That will be very high energy, and if anything will work, that should be it. I agree that you could clean and look for burrs, and maybe try seeing if some light grease, rather than thin gun oil might clarify the situation.
 
I have not tried 147 grain loads yet. So far I have been using 115 grain (speer lawman, blazer brass or Remington). I also will try Mil-comm TW25B for the slide rails instead of gun oil. I have read good things about this grease but this is the first time I will be trying it out.

I'm anxious to try out the replacement gun I received the other day. I plan on putting 100-150 rounds through it at the range and will report what happens. Thanks to everyone for their input.
 
I really believe that the 147 May help. If there just isn't enough recoil force to make it function properly you can test it by increasing the recoil energy and seeing if you still get failures. The common fix in years past if a gun wouldn't function with low recoil rounds was to get a lighter spring. Some people just clipped a single loop.

If the 147 work for a few hundred rounds, go back to 115 if you want to and you may have loosened it up.

A lot of .380 class guns are straight blowback,and mine is a retarded blowback, or recoil operated. The mechanism is just like any other larger nine.after hundreds of rounds,it still chokes on the box of Winchester"low recoil"that I bought by mistake. I get about a ten percent failure rate. My handloads are a heavier bullet, slower powder, heavier charge. That gives the slide e Gogh energy to cycle completely. They tend to be about even, half of the jams are like you are experiencing, the others vertical stovepipes. That all led me to believe th a an ammo change might be the answer.
 
Good luck. It'd be really helpful if you had access to reloading equipment. Maybe you ought to try that in the future. I could go to my shop right now and load 100 rounds of anything you would need in about the time it would take you to come over do the house, if I had the components.
 
Well I finally made it to the range today after receiving the second replacement Jericho 941 earlier this week. I'm cautiously optimistic after I put 150 rounds through the gun with no issues. I'll feel more confident with this gun if I can go a few more times without any FTE.
 
most people figure th a 2-300 straight as an indication that it's safe for carry. Myself, I'd find a reliable fmj round for concealed carry until you run a hundred rounds or so of defensive ammo through without failure.. I also suggest that you just find a bulk, non specialty :-P round so you can afford to seriously test it out. Better a solid fmj than a jam. Better a round of plain Winchester UP than a jam with a ranger. A defensive system needs reliability, all else is secondary.
 
Just went to the range and put another 150 rounds through the Jericho without any problems. Shot 100 147 grain ammo and 50 115 grain ammo. I've now put 300 rounds through the second replacement gun without any FTE's. So far so good...
 
I have an original Jericho that has the 41 AE conversion. I've had this gun for 10 years and after years of random stove piping/FTF (trial/error with every type of ammo) I've talked with many gunsmiths and replaced the (extractor/spring, recoil spring) and still the same issues.....I even called the company that still handles them in Israel and they sent me a recoil reduction spring to see if that would help. The issue is none of that, it just comes down to the ammo you are using. Regular 115 or 125 grain plinking US ammo is just not enough to get the slide back all the way to allow the extractor to do its job. 124 +P or 147 is the way to go with this guy.
 
I'm going to close this one, as the OP solved his problem back in March 2016.

Spike, feel free to open a new thread to discuss your experiences if you want.
 
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