What do you think of the CZ 75 Compact w/decocker?

I am soaking up all this info, as a 75B Compact is my next purchase, to join my other 9 CZ's....

The question I have is, which models will accept my 10 year old Kadet kit ? There are lots of opinions on this, some of which are probably incorrect.
 
It should.

The only problems with newer (made to work with B-model) Kadet Kits I've run into was when trying to use them with the older pre-Bs. Some of the older pre-B hammers are wider, and won't fit in the notch at the rear of the Kadet Kit slide (not allowing hammer contact with the firing pin). Later pre-Bs, which looked like the B models, would work with the kits. (There are a few, rare, pre-B Kadet Kits floating around; I doubt that your Kadet Kit is one of them -- but if it is, it should work just fine.)

If your Kadet Kit works with other "B" model CZs, it should work with this gun, too.

Some years back -- mid 90's-- I had several Compacts. The Kadet Kit worked on them.

There is an updated Kadet Kit, modified to work with Omega trogger systems, while still working with the older-style B model CZs.
 
Walt, the Omega trigger on the P-07/P-09 decocks to the half-cock notch as well. It's supposed to just be a simpler trigger system. I don't know if you can really tell any differences from these pictures or not on this shot, except for for the Omega's single trigger bar. I will try to get some better close-ups later...

P-01 (Standard CZ trigger) & P-07 (Omega trigger):
ba488d9efc99a2c5db9c8dff03e7bd22.jpg
 
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Not an owner, but I have had fairly extensive first-hand practice with the thumb safety version, the CZ-75B Compact. The only thing I don't like about it is that it's not a 1911. It's a fine pistol in just about every respect. I sort of wish I had bought the one I was using but, alas, I didn't ... and it's no longer available to me at (or near) that price.

I can't speak directly to the decocker version in terms of shooting, but I found the thumb safety version to be nicely sized, well-balanced, and easy to conceal. It isn't a pocket pistol, it wants a holster, but it is small enough that it's easy to conceal.
 
I bought the PCR because I liked the thinner front end and decocker. Absolutely love the gun, my only complaint is the serrated trigger which is irritating, literary. Have about 1,000 rounds out of it without a single hiccup and yes the trigger gets better and better with use. The amazing thing is that I find it just as accurate as my 85 combat. Gotta get rid of that trigger one of these days.
 
I bought my 75D PCR new in 2000. I selected it over a Sig P225 which was the same price, as the gun store was blowing them out due to their discontinuation. I am glad I bought the PCR instead, and have been carrying it ever since.

My Kadet Kit works perfectly on both my 75B, and PCR. Recently I acquired a LNIB full Kadet pistol which is also a joy to shoot. Wonderful pistols.
 
Snap Caps

Remember to always use a snap cap with CZs.
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Why is this?
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This was ONCE the case, but may not be necessary with newer models.

When the 75B was first introduced, the switch to a firing pin block included doing away with the firing pin STOP, a plate at the rear of the slide that retained the firing pin. CZ used a roll pin THROUGH the slide to retain the firing pin.

Repeated strikes when dry firing (which didn't impede the firing pin like a primer would) could -- but did not always -- lead to a broken firing pin retention roll pin. Back then I was a very avid CZ shooter and pooh-poohed concerns about damage; never had a problem with a 75B. But shortly after getting a 40B, I busted the firing pin retention roll pin, and became a believer. It was basically the same gun (internally) made in the same way. The replacement part cost $.75 at the hardware store; I only needed to cut a little off the end with a Dremel tool.

CZ later doubled the roll pin, and now uses a solid pin to retain the firing pin. If you have a solid pin (as is the case with the newer CZs), you can dry fire to your heart's content. If you've got a doubled pin, you probably can too. If you've got a single roll pin (easily noticed -- you can see an open spot when looking at the pin from the side), you might want to contact CZ and get a solid or doubled pin to replace it. (Or pick up some replacement roll pins at a hardware store -- which is what I did, as noted above, when I was doing CZs.)

It's only a concern with older 75Bs (and related models); less a concern with newer ones. But using snap caps never hurts anything. You can also use a rubber washer/grommet, also available at the hardware store. Find one that is about the proper diameter and thick, and insert it in the notch at the rear of the slide -- and that will keep the hammer from hitting the firing pin... Snap cap or grommet -- but with the older 75Bs, an ounce of prevention is worth a TON of cure, is cheap and a lot less aggravating.

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P01 and PCR have both ALWAYS been forged. I am a CZ fan but not a decocker fan. I sold a PCR and 2 P01s and purchased a Canik which is basically a PCR with a safety. Also sold 97BD for a 97B which I ultimately traded to a Sar K2 in 45 for more capacity.

IMO you can't go wrong with a CZ.
 
Don't own one but I loved the look and feel of the Cz compact d last I saw one. Wanted it real bad but all I had was a trade in and some cash and he wanted 300$ on top of my trade.
 
LarryFlew said:
P01 and PCR have both ALWAYS been forged.
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Don't think they've both ALWAYS been forged, but agree that both are now forged.

CZ never talked about forged frames until the introduction of the P-01, and only LATER added "forged" to their on-site specifications for current PCR production. There have been some minor changes to the PCR design, mentioned below, which makes me think there may have been other subtle changes as well. (Don't know that it makes much difference, as the alloy-framed guns seem to be pretty hardy.)

At the time of the P-01 introduction, CZ also announced a number of manufacturing changes. CZ says that the improved production methods (introduced with the the P-01 and later spread to other models) makes all parts of the P-01 and P-06 frames and internal component absolutely interchangeable with no need of fitting. I suspect that the PCR was "upgraded" at that time or soon afterwards.

If the PCR mag release is NOW reversible (it was NOT originally), that's probably a sign that the frame was also modified to be closer to the P-01 design. The beavertail on the PCR frame looks different, now, too -- more extended (not cut off) than was the case with the earliest PCRs.

A number of changes, like the extended beavertail and reversible mag releases have been introduced with some of the newer variants of the basic CZ design, as have ambidextrous safeties on some models.

The PCR frame is noticeably different than the steel Compact frame. as can be seen in the CZ-USA site photos.

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Quote:
Quote:
Remember to always use a snap cap with CZs.
Why is this?
This was ONCE the case, but may not be necessary with newer models.

When the 75B was first introduced, the switch to a firing pin block included doing away with the firing pin STOP, a plate at the rear of the slide that retained the firing pin. CZ used a roll pin THROUGH the slide to retain the firing pin.

Repeated strikes when dry firing (which didn't impede the firing pin like a primer would) could -- but did not always -- lead to a broken firing pin retention roll pin. Back then I was a very avid CZ shooter and pooh-poohed concerns about damage; never had a problem with a 75B. But shortly after getting a 40B, I busted the firing pin retention roll pin, and became a believer. It was basically the same gun (internally) made in the same way. The replacement part cost $.75 at the hardware store; I only needed to cut a little off the end with a Dremel tool.

CZ later doubled the roll pin, and now uses a solid pin to retain the firing pin. If you have a solid pin (as is the case with the newer CZs), you can dry fire to your heart's content. If you've got a doubled pin, you probably can too. If you've got a single roll pin (easily noticed -- you can see an open spot when looking at the pin from the side), you might want to contact CZ and get a solid or doubled pin to replace it. (Or pick up some replacement roll pins at a hardware store -- which is what I did, as noted above, when I was doing CZs.)

It's only a concern with older 75Bs (and related models); less a concern with newer ones. But using snap caps never hurts anything. You can also use a rubber washer/grommet, also available at the hardware store. Find one that is about the proper diameter and thick, and insert it in the notch at the rear of the slide -- and that will keep the hammer from hitting the firing pin... Snap cap or grommet -- but with the older 75Bs, an ounce of prevention is worth a TON of cure, is cheap and a lot less aggravating.
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Thank you SO MUCH!. People like you are what make this Forum great.
 
TunnelRat said:
To make it even more confusing, I recently saw a CZ 75 Compact slide on a P-01 frame (the slide was lacking the P-01 marking). I went back twice because it struck me as odd. A Google search found it's not too uncommon.
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I had one of those. My understanding is that it's the nomenclature used in the European market; it is a P-01.
 
The Compact slide on a P-01 probably looked a little strange. For while the slides are similar, the Compact slide has a narrower nose than the P-01 slide (which is wider near the front sight to match the contours of the wider dustcover of the P-01). Both use the same sights, I think, and neither has the Loaded Chamber indicator of the PCR.

RE: P-01 Tests for NATO...

An earlier response mentioned that the P-01 passed strenuous NATO tests. That came from misreading an earlier press releases: There Aren't any NATO tests -- just standards/specs that weapons are expected to meet.

The tests mentioned were tests that CZ did to meet the standards of the Czech National Police. What caused the confusion was that those tests were mentioned in the same press release way back several years ago. I suspect the news release is still on the CZ site.

CZ, last year (or the year before), made some changes to the P-01, and no longer mentions NATO specs. They've arguably changed something. It's NOT an important point -- and never was: many countries use weapons made in factories in their country, or built by companies headquartered in their country. NATO would be hard pressed to get these countries to use something else. With NATO's hand-held weapons, the big focus is on ammo specs -- and potential interoperability between units in the field.
 
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You can also use a rubber washer/grommet, also available at the hardware store. Find one that is about the proper diameter and thick, and insert it in the notch at the rear of the slide -- and that will keep the hammer from hitting the firing pin...
Click to expand...

+1

I now have these on all of my hammer-fired pistols. A no-brainer for $.25-.50 each. Some washers will stay in until you remove them (1911, Beretta, Sig), and others need to be readjusted every dozen shots or so. My CZ required such readjusting.

Think of it as a "silenced snap cap" - no more amplified hollow pong. My wife used to complain about all of that "clicking" she would hear at night. With the rubber washers, dry fires are now a muted whisper.
 
To the OP - I carried the P-01 as my EDC for may years, have one of the first P-01s in country. I've been accused of having a trigger job done on it, but it's just thousands of rounds down range, factory and hand loaded. It's always done me right, and I replaced the recoil spring at 10K rounds, (or so, wasn't quite sure), just because.
I've carried it in a few different rigs, but the niftiest one is this Double Jeopardy from High Noon Holsters. Shown here with P-01 and RAMI BD.



Alternatively, if you are on a budget, the Bianchi M-100 for the Glock 19 fits well.
 
I have about 5000 rounds through my P-01 and it's one of my favorite handguns. I've used it through training classes and it's always done well for me. I have replaced a few of the internals with parts from Cajun Gun Works (CGW) which have really improved the guns performance. I'm getting about a 9lb DA pull and a 4lb SA pull. For me that works well and I think you'd be hard pressed to find a gun with such nice ergos.
 
CZ 75D with a rail?

I just bought a new 75D and was so excited to find it! I thought this was the PCR, but when I got home and started to play with it I realized it has a rail on it, and doesn't look like the other PCR photos I have seen. The guy at the shop told me it was a PCR. The box says it is a CZ Compact P-01? Is this a hybrid version? Either way I cant wait to get to the range!!
 
The differences between the PCR and P-01 are minor... but there are differences. Both now have forged alloy frames.

If yours has the accessory rail and a full-length dustcover AND doesn't have the NOVAK style rear sight or loaded chamber indicator, it's a P-01. I suspect the box info/ID is correct.

If you really want a PCR, take it back to the dealer and have the dealer make it right!! The retail price of the P-01 (according to the CZ website) is about $30 more than the PCR... Find out which price you paid; if you paid the P-01 price, you should have paid the PCR price. You ought to get THAT difference back if you don't return the gun.

One difference will be finding a holster -- they take slightly different ones; the PCR will fit in a fitted P-01 holster, but not vice versa.
 
My PCR fits perfectly in holsters designed for the Sig P228/P229 (without rail). In fact it fits BETTER in my P228 holster than my P228 does!
 
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