What Can I do to make a model 7 more accurate?
- Thread starter steveNChunter
- Start date
I helped a neighbor buy a used Rem Model 7 in 7mm-08. On checking it out, I found the stock was cracked longitudinally at the front screw, so I decided to pillar/epoxy bed it, with crack repaired. For the crack fix, I used a piece of 3/16" bolt, set into a slot I made near the front screw, covered with JB Weld.
Pillars were made from 1/2" steel tubing from Home Depot, the stock routed out with a dremel to about 1/16" depth and roughened to give the JB Weld epoxy better grip. The barrel was generously free-floated and I shortened the stock and refitted the original pad.
Results were no less than outstanding!! The rifle loved 140 grain Rem. Core-Loct factory ammo, producing 100 yard, perfect three-shot cloverleaf with all three touching. It was then the neighbor's turn. She shot it well and still loves it after three years!!!
Pillars were made from 1/2" steel tubing from Home Depot, the stock routed out with a dremel to about 1/16" depth and roughened to give the JB Weld epoxy better grip. The barrel was generously free-floated and I shortened the stock and refitted the original pad.
Results were no less than outstanding!! The rifle loved 140 grain Rem. Core-Loct factory ammo, producing 100 yard, perfect three-shot cloverleaf with all three touching. It was then the neighbor's turn. She shot it well and still loves it after three years!!!
reynolds357
New member
I agree Doyle. I learned how to deer hunt with a bolt action, and my father would only give me one round. I plan on teaching my son with a single shot 7-30 Waters.
allaroundhunter
New member
+1
Over Christmas I had a night where I let 6 shots go at 5 separate pigs... I only missed one and 5 pigs were on the ground within about 15 seconds.....
But I was cheating and using an AR
With my Model 70 .243 the best I have done is to take 2 shots at separate pigs in the same hunt.... Only found one
No ! Floating the pencil barrel generally will NOT improve things. Been there, done that. The M7, as much as I like it, is a compromise. The pencil barrel is there to reduce weight, but the down side is that it heats up really fast....and WILL produce some stringing. Floating the barrel will actually make it WORSE. The up side is that the barrel cools fast. So, if practicing with the 7 at the range, shoot short strings, no more than 5 rounds at a run....then allow the barrel to cool. The 7 is really only intended to be a hunting rifle - and it does very well at that - but it's not a target gun.
As to improving on 2 moa accuracy, it can be done. Hand loads ARE the answer.
You could TRY the old trick of varying the amount of upward pressure on the barrel, but adding shims to the pressure pads in the forend....but I never was able to get an improvement that way. I tried bedding the action, floating the barrel, adding uplift at the forend, etc. In the end, I found the best results with some pressure on the barrel, probably about the same as from the factory. I then tuned my loads for the rifle - that gave me the most improvement. In the end, my M7 (.308) would do about 1 moa or so, but only for about 4 rounds. The 5th in a string would always step out a bit, unless I let the barrel cool after 4 rounds.
Another obvious solution would be to rebarrel the 7 with a standard weight barrel, as from a Rem. 700. That would do nicely. But, short of that....handloading is your best bet.
As I said, the M7 is compromised toward a hunting rig - not a target rifle.
As to improving on 2 moa accuracy, it can be done. Hand loads ARE the answer.
You could TRY the old trick of varying the amount of upward pressure on the barrel, but adding shims to the pressure pads in the forend....but I never was able to get an improvement that way. I tried bedding the action, floating the barrel, adding uplift at the forend, etc. In the end, I found the best results with some pressure on the barrel, probably about the same as from the factory. I then tuned my loads for the rifle - that gave me the most improvement. In the end, my M7 (.308) would do about 1 moa or so, but only for about 4 rounds. The 5th in a string would always step out a bit, unless I let the barrel cool after 4 rounds.
Another obvious solution would be to rebarrel the 7 with a standard weight barrel, as from a Rem. 700. That would do nicely. But, short of that....handloading is your best bet.
As I said, the M7 is compromised toward a hunting rig - not a target rifle.
WildBill45
New member
My Model 7 custom KS in 350 Rem mag with custom loads is a tack driver. I have not changed the scope setting in ten or more years, probably more...
steveNChunter
New member
wpsdlrg- I am teeter tottering on the fence of whether or not to float the barrel. I am afraid of making things worse but if it will make even the first two shots from a cold barrel group better, I believe it is worth doing for a hunting rifle. How did your M7 do on the first two shots when it was floated?
reynolds357
New member
Measure the amount of pressure before you float. That way if floating does make it worse you can re create the pressure point.
Steven.....OK you live in a single wide with little room for reloading or so you think. I used to C clamp a RCBS press to a $10.00 table I bought at a yard sale after I got caught by the wife using her table. I kept everything in their org boxes and it took up little storage space. It’s gratifying when you find the fodder your grumpy rifle likes.
bigalshootmupper
New member
I free floated my model 7 6mm Rem and it made a huge difference. Mine has an 18" pencil barrel. It was shooting 3-4" at 100 yards with all ammos, even with reloads. I then free floated the barrel and it will sometimes do 1" at 100 yards.
I am not saying you should free float yours. I would try at least 6 different ammos before trying it. If all 6 shoot bad, I doubt free floating will make it worse. If it will shoot 1-2", then that may be all she will do.
I am not saying you should free float yours. I would try at least 6 different ammos before trying it. If all 6 shoot bad, I doubt free floating will make it worse. If it will shoot 1-2", then that may be all she will do.
steveNChunter
New member
big al- I wish I couldve found one chambered 6mm instead of .243. One of the best calibers ever to be killed.
Picher- I read it, and I believe it. I just hope if I float mine it will turn out as well as yours did.
Picher- I read it, and I believe it. I just hope if I float mine it will turn out as well as yours did.
reynolds357
New member
Picher, every rifle is different.
Floating without good action bedding can make accuracy worse. Actions must be bedded correctly, preferably pillar-bedded, to achieve consistency.
Two of the "musts": 1. masking tape under, both sides, and ahead of the recoil shield. Remove it after hardening/removal. This prevents the action from "rocking" on the epoxy.
2. After hardening/removal, be sure that any blind receiver screw holes aren't filled with epoxy, preventing the action from being adequately tightened into the bedding.
Done right, I've never seen a bolt-action rifle shoot worse after bedding.
Two of the "musts": 1. masking tape under, both sides, and ahead of the recoil shield. Remove it after hardening/removal. This prevents the action from "rocking" on the epoxy.
2. After hardening/removal, be sure that any blind receiver screw holes aren't filled with epoxy, preventing the action from being adequately tightened into the bedding.
Done right, I've never seen a bolt-action rifle shoot worse after bedding.