What BUG should I get?

T

TheNocturnus

New member
I am probably opening a can of worms here. I have had bad luck with my choices of a BUG. Some say that I will never need one, i'm crazy for carrying a BUG or one BUG is not enough. I feel safer carrying a BUG so I will just leave it at that.

I have had a Ruger LCP, Kel Tec P-11, Taurus PT-22 and a Taurus PT111 all as a BUG at one time.
Here's why I got rid of each:

Ruger LCP: Recoil was really bad in this very small gun, the sights were very poor.

Kel Tec P-11: Horrible trigger, when firing I would often misfire the next shot because the trigger would not reset before I fired again.

Taurus PT-22: Jam-o-matic, light strikes a plenty. Wouldn't trust my life to this junker.

Taurus PT111: Broken Ejector, Unreliable, When it did fire properly, after the recoil follow through I would hit the mag release and drop the magazine.

I am not opposed to any caliber. I am leaning towards a revolver of some fashion as my next BUG. I am not wealthy, I will have about $300, after I return my PT111 once it gets fixed. I am looking at a NAA mini revolver or a Rock Island 38 special revolver. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

I also want to add that this site is so awesome, thanks guys for your valuable input and for making such a great online community.
 
Save up another $100 and get a S&W J frame, like a 637. S&W's quality and customer service are both second to none. In the end you'll be glad you did. Stay away from the cheap stuff. Like the saying goes "the cheap comes out expensive".

Good luck.
 
Last edited:
The problem with the Kel-Tec P11 sounds like you were trying to only release the trigger to the reset point. According to Todd Jarrett, "The key thing is never try to go to reset when shooting any type of mechanical trigger. You will find that you will be able to shoot any product on the market built today or tomorrow. " The video of his lesson used to be on Shooting USA's website but they don't have it up anymore. Jarrett recommends always taking your finger all the way forward in the trigger guard so it comes off the trigger then back on. It's a great technique and it lets you shoot any gun without worrying about false resets. It's also better under stress because there is no way you can gauge a reset point when your fine motor control is gone. He's a 9 time world champ so he knows what he is talking about and what he does works. Once you practice this way dryfiring for a bit it is completely natural and fast.
 
The problem with the Kel-Tec P11 sounds like you were trying to only release the trigger to the reset point. According to Todd Jarrett, "The key thing is never try to go to reset when shooting any type of mechanical trigger. You will find that you will be able to shoot any product on the market built today or tomorrow. " The video of his lesson used to be on Shooting USA's website but they don't have it up anymore. Jarrett recommends always taking your finger all the way forward in the trigger guard so it comes off the trigger then back on. It's a great technique and it lets you shoot any gun without worrying about false resets. It's also better under stress because there is no way you can gauge a reset point when your fine motor control is gone. He's a 9 time world champ so he knows what he is talking about and what he does works. Once you practice this way dryfiring for a bit it is completely natural and fast.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. I would fire it and with the recoil my finger would move through the trigger guard thus placing the middle of my finger on the trigger instead of the tip. When I tried to do a follow up shot I would have to either try with a bad finger placement or move my finger back in place. It was also uncomfortable to shoot.
 
My 642 is equipped with an Express standard dot front sight and CT laser. The CT grips for the J-Frame handle recoil nicely. CorBon +P DPX is easy to handle in that gun. The Speer load is manageable, also.

I, too, have an LCR. I do like it, but the CT's don't handle recoil as well as the originals. Now, there are even more grips available for the LCR. But I haven't tried them. Rumor has it that CT is looking at different laser grips that manage recoil better than the current.

If I were to buy another LCR, I'd get the .357 which is a little heavier. I'd still carry only +P .38's.

The LCR is a good little gun, but I wouldn't be trading in my proven S&W J-frames any time soon. We'll see if the LCR is made to last or if it has a limited life span.:cool:

The S&W is a BUG, but if I, say, visit the Dr. I can secure my primary in the car lock box and carry the 642 (which has become my primary) in a vest or pants pocket so I'm still armed.
 
Last edited:
BUG Kel Tec 380

Its my wife's primary and my BUG/light carry.

At close range will poke a 10" hole in someone.

Shoots like sh_t, bad trigger. I gave up shooting it at the range. No point to it in my opinion. You just can not get good with it.

It is the lightest carry gun I could find in a caliber I find borderline acceptable.

My main carry is a glock .40.

If Ruger had been making a .380 at the time, I would have bought that instead but I have had no mechanical problems with the kel-tecs.
 
If you're not completely soured on Ruger, might I suggest the SP-101? It's my BUG of choice for the last several years, no complaints.
 
If you find the recoil to sharp with the LCP, may I suggest an older S&W in either Model 60 or 36. I carried a 36 for years when still working, still have it even after being retired for 23 years. The reason I suggest an older model is the way the interal workings go. Years ago when 90% of LEOs carried wheel guns I was fortunate to go to the S&W Armours School in Springfield. Got to build 3 revolvers during the school. Still work on Smiths at my friends gunsmithing shop and personally don't care for the internal parts they put int o them now.
 
My BUG ( and sometime only carry depending on what I'm wearing) is a S&W 642 in a Nemesis superfly pocket holster. Stays in place, no print, smooth draw, and very comfortable carry( for me at lest).
 
If you don't like the recoil of the LCP, you probably won't like a S&W Airweight revolver. However, I have to agree, a S&W model 36 or 60 would be a good choice loaded with non +P ammo. You can find one in the $300-$350 range if you look around a bit.
 
so what's the verdict?
Click to expand...

Haven't decided yet. I have plenty of time until my gun gets back fom Taurus so I can return it to my LGS. I really want a NAA Mini revolver, but as a BUG i'm not sure it is potent enough for me. I have handled some Airweights and just did not like the feeling of them, they were sooooo light. I want my gun to have some weight to it. I don't mind "knowing" it's there when I carry it.

I do like the Ruger SP101 but it is a little more than I can afford right now, in the future I could always trade up to it. I could probably save up some money and get the most expensive, "best" gun out there but I feel naked without my BUG and would like to get another very soon.
 
Last edited:
might want to try a masterpiece arms protecter 380. but it does have heavy recoil
Click to expand...

That's one of the reasons I got rid of the LCP. .380 is not a super powerful load but in a gun that weighs next to nothing it recoils like crazy. I like having the ability for quick follow up shots. I would love to find a used .357/.38 special S&W revolver for about $250-300.
 
For $300 get the NAA Pug and never look back. It's completely concealable, reliable, and the .22 Mag is no slouch, roughly equal in power to .32 ACP.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top