What 30-30 ammo do you like best?

Any factory load with 170 grain bullets.

I have used 150 grain bullets on large western mule deer and never had an exit. I like to have an exit evey time.

On the other hand I have never had a 170 stay in a deer, so I say "170 grain"
 
I really wish I shot enough to warrant reloading but I dont. As for me I like running PPU and Federal 150 -170 grain only because they seem to be the best prices I can find. As far as recoil, I have never shot a 30-30 with any recoil worth mentioning.
 
Any factory load with 170 grain bullets.

I have used 150 grain bullets on large western mule deer and never had an exit. I like to have an exit evey time.

On the other hand I have never had a 170 stay in a deer, so I say "170 grain"
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Great post, real world experience trumps a lot of supposition. Based on that 170 sounds like a better hog hunting load. What brand of ammo were you using? Ranges?
 
Per post 3 I have some HSM cowboy loads that should be good on the way.
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HSM 165gr at 1900fps, vs the Hornady 150gr at 2100fps is a negligible gain...You can plug them both into a recoil calculator and see the difference...

The other part you seem to want to ignore is that the answers to these threads may help others in the future...

Just because you do not hand load, does not mean that others that have the same question in the future do not...

Now I see you are contemplating 170gr factory loads...

Not sure logically how one can go with a 170gr factory load at 2200fps over a 150gr at 2100fps, and expect to lower 'recoil'...
 
Now I see you are contemplating 170gr factory loads...

Not sure logically how one can go with a 170gr factory load at 2200fps over a 150gr at 2100fps, and expect to lower 'recoil'...
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I don't expect lower recoil going from 150 to 170.

But if I were to hunt I can put up with more recoil for one or a few shots. For plinking where I might burn up a box or more, yes I'd rather have something lighter.
 
Kcub. I noticed something in one of your comments that I think has bearing on the recoil factor. Your rifle has more drop in the stock than the post 1964 models. I have two pre-64 M94s, a 30-30 and a .32 Win. Spl. made in the 1950's. I also have a post 64 M94 30-30 and it has noticeably less drop to the stock and recoil does feel lighter. I'm thinking what you're feeling at the shot is the upchuck of the stock due to the drop hitting your cheek or jaw.
I can understand your reluctance to handled your own ammo. I've been reloading since 1954 and I can still remember what went through my mind when I fired my first reload. WOW! The gun is still in one piece. Rifle was an 1894 Winchester 30-30 made January 2, 1911. It belonged to my Great-grandfather and yes, I still have it. I still shoot it with rather mild hand loads in deference to it's age.
Gotta love the old 30-30. it still works.
Paul B.
 
A long time a go I used to hammer out some 357 reloads with one of those Lee Loaders. In seating a primer I must have hit it a little too hard or that particular primer was a little too soft and it went bam.

Correction, it went BAM!

I am leery less of it than of me. I'm sure there are many who are less clumsy and more diligent than me and it works fine for them.

Callahan's law: A man's got to know his limitations.
 
Longest string of clean single shot kills I know of belongs to Win 150 HP. Best balance of penetration vs expansion you can ask for.
 
Getting back to the original question......

As I already mentioned, I mostly shoot reloads. But for factory ammo, for a vintage Winchester like that, I find original vintage ammo most compelling, especially in the yellow box with blue and red graphics, maybe even a grizzly bear on the front; you know, Silvertips. I will even buy old partial boxes in bad condition just for the bullets and maybe the brass if it's recoverable, and rebuild it to period correct new condition. In my observations, aluminum Silvertips from the 1970's have ball powder, while the Nickle-silver Silvertips from the box with the Grizzly Bear on it contain an extruded powder that closely resembles IMR-4895. I believe these are more period-correct for the war-time manufactured model 94's. Full boxes of the original Grizzly-box ammo in good condition can be pretty expensive when it can be found. Rebuilding compromised remnants is often more affordable. "Trust your next hunt to Silvertips." I don't much load reduced loads. I have a little, with cast bullets. But even with Cast 170 grain bullets, I usually run them up to 2100 fps or so. The original sights are intended for regular loads.
 
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Current Winchester silvertips, though the opposite of cheap, are still drop dead gorgeous in their own right. You can buy the ballistic silvertip bullets and reload those gorgeous nickel cases also.
 
Whaaat?

@ Kcub: Hmmm!
In reviewing Posts 6 & 29......Do I detect a bit of contradiction/controversy?
... "A long time ago I used to hammer out some .357 reloads with one of those Lee Loaders......" (post 29)
..."If I had somebody to show me how, I'd get into reloading....."(post 6)
No disrespect, but, care to explain?

WILL.
 
Kcub:
Reread your own posts (#6 & #29).
In post 6 you say (paraphrase) 'If you had someone to show you how, you'd get into reloading....But you don't.'
Then in post 29 you say....."A long time ago I used to hammer out some .357 loads with one of those Lee Loaders".

Contradictory at the least. Clear as day. As I asked before.....Which is it? Do you, or , do you not know how? Either you do or you don't.

WILL.
 
Do you know what a Lee loader is? I don't know if they still make them or not. It's just a small kit in a box and you use a mallet, pre-set powder scoop. Not the same complexity as a real reloading setup.

Maybe that's the confusion? Small Lee kit vs. full blown Lee bench setup?

aspects that concern me: powder measuring, primer seating, how far you screw the dies. level of force used to press everything, crimping

I wouldn't attempt it without experienced eyes coaching me every step.

Plus I don't have a workshop. I've got a Huntington hand press I bought during the last ammo crisis, haven't touched it.
 
:confused: RE: Your question; I started at the bench 40 yrs. ago (Nov. 20th '75) with a set of Lee Loader dies in .30-30 for my 336 Marlin. I still have that set, plus a half-dozen more, in both pistol and rifle calibers. From those, I went to RCBS equipment (dies and press) because of the [neck-sizing] limitation of the L L sets, and from there to LEE's presses ( both C-type and [D and O] types). The latest (and biggest/strongest/HEAVIEST) press was from Midway's [Frankfort Press]-- bigger (to me) than RCBS's Rock Chucker.

I simply do not understand why you [claim] ignorance of reloading in one post while stating [that] you reloaded certain cartridges years ago, (regardless of the type equipment used) in another post in the same thread.

Perhaps it's just me. Either way...keep at it, but be careful. Sometimes, a little trepidation is good medicine to keep one on one's toes. Complacency will oftentimes beget/result in... tragic consequences. :eek:

WILL.
 
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