Wet tumble without de-capping first.

Shadow9mm said:
I thought salt and vinegar made a weak form of sulphuric acid.

Neither salt nor vinegar has sulfur atoms in them so, short of a nuclear reaction, that would not be possible. BUT, even if it were possible, pickling brass in sulfuric acid is done. Obliquely related, sulfamic acid is what was in some commercial liquid cartridge brass cleaners in the past.
 
So to report. I processed approximately 5000, 1 5gal bucket full, of 223 casings without depriming first. I left the bucket open let it air dry for about 1 week. After that I put in a 2lb safe sized silica gel canister. I recharged it once a week for 3 weeks. It got the humidity in the bucket down to about 15% so I would say its dry.

Yes it took about 4 weeks total to dry. However it did save me several hours of de-priming and letting it sit and dry was pretty much zero work.
 
I like to keep things simple, and just finished 20K 9's, using a Dillon 1050 to process. Size and decap, swage, add a Lyman M die to bell, then clean in ss media, dry overnight, and they are ready to go. It is easy to run at about 1800/hr., getting them ready to clean. Dawn, lemishine, cold water rinse, and that is it. They look like jewelry.
 
I reduced my miss-fire / hang-fire count from 3 per 10000 rounds to less than 1 per 10000 rounds after I started wet tumbling with primer out and after I switched from Winchester to CCI primers. I cannot say for certain which change made the difference. Purely from a case inspection standpoint, I have never had to ream a primer pocket clean after the change to wet tumbling with primers out. I have never had a primer " fall out " but have heard of it happening to others. I attribute that, in part, to spent primer residue holding a loose primer in when, if you had a perfectly clean case, you'd have noticed it whilst reloading and rejected the round. Some focus on speed and reload counts. I tend to focus on quality and reliability. My rounds are designed for the defense of me & mine. I do not distinguish between a carry round and a plinking round as I make them all equally good. Consider those points when coming to your process decision.
 
Don't let wet tumbled brass sit around for long with fired primers in the pocket ...
the moisture in the primer pocket and primer residue will cause corrosion between primer and case ... when you go to decap them the bottom of the primer will push out and leave a corroded cup ring stuck in the pocket ...and trust me , they are a devil to get out .

I used to pick up outdoor range brass , rain caused the primers to corrode in place in no time ... so be careful when wet tumbling cases with fired primers ...don't let them corrode on you .
Gary
 
...the moisture in the primer pocket and primer residue will cause corrosion between primer and case ... when you go to decap them the bottom of the primer will push out and leave a corroded cup ring stuck in the pocket ...

Yep! Bought some brass that did just that. Trying to get the sides of the primer out of the primer pocket was more trouble than it was worth - tossed those cases.

Don
 
Personally, I'd recommend against leaving the primers in while wet tumbling. I've had great results using a Universal Decapping Die to knock out the primers, wet tumbling, then processing. If water gets trapped in that primer pocket, it won't be a good thing. Plus getting the water out adds an additional step anyway, so why do it?
 
Personally, I'd recommend against leaving the primers in while wet tumbling. I've had great results using a Universal Decapping Die to knock out the primers, wet tumbling, then processing. If water gets trapped in that primer pocket, it won't be a good thing. Plus getting the water out adds an additional step anyway, so why do it?
because it saves time? In my case about 5 hours of it...
 
Wet tumbling with pins leads to a slippery slope. . .

If you tumble straight from the range, your brass will be clean, but the primer pockets won't. Clean primer pockets is one of the biggest advantages of wet tumbling with pins (I realize clean primer pockets aren't essential; but it's important to me). And worse, those primer pockets are now wet - trapping water, the potential for corrosion, etc. Decapping wet primers are more of a mess too. IMO, I just believe wet tumbling in pins should be done after decapping.

I have noticed that powder residue acts as a lubricant when flairing the case. When the case is squeaky clean, there is a very noticable "galling" feel when flairing. To me, that just doesn't feel right, so I prefer to flair before wet tumbling.

So now, I prep the brass before tumbling - resize/decap, and flair. Then tumble. And since I know I'm going to wet tumble, I figure I might as well give the brass a quick spray with lube before processing (because the tumble will clean off the lube). Makes sense?

At this point, I have turned the reloading process into two discrete steps at the press. The "case reconditioning" step; followed by the actual reloading step; with wet tumbling in between.

Like I said, slippery slope.

All of this makes perfect sense to me - it's a perfectly logical thought process. Whenever anybody questions a step in the process, I instantly have a logical answer as to why I do it the way I do (and not the way they are suggesting).

We all have our way of doing things; and I'm sure every method imaginable is somebody's "normal" process. This is mine.

To me, the only other method that makes sense to me is to just vibra-tumble in corn cob from the range (which I do, btw); and then go straight to a full progressive reload process - complete with priming and powder charging on-press (which I do off-press, btw) - one trip to the press from start to finish. This seems logical to me for those whose main interest is to bang out lots of range fodder.
 
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