wet tumble chemicals?

Citric Acid is a chelator that binds the lead into an organic molecule that has very low reactivity and toxicity. Just as chelating blood is used to address heavy metal poisoning, this renders the lead safe to flush down a drain.
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I did not know that, one of the things that made me uneasy about wet tumbling was where to dump the water from it. Good to know.
 
Shadow9mm said:
Been using the Frankford packets, but they are $1 each and 223 needs 2 washes



Not sure how I feel about a wash n wax. I know the wax should not interact with the powder or gum up the chamber. Has anyone used the wash'n wax stuff and stored long term?



Bought some stuff at the store today to try



finish booster 90-100% citric acid (no lemishine)

dawn (common, figured my wife can use it if I dont)

simple green (not seen much on people using it, seemed like a good idea)

mcguires utimate wash n wax (carnuba, no turtle zip)



Any thoughts? I know I should use the booster since I have hard water, and to help neutrilize any lead.



What have you guys tried other than dawn and lemi shine?
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You might want to rethink Simple Green for brass cleaning. About 20 years ago, the military and aviation industry started having aircraft failures from parts cleaned with Simple Green, due to hydrogen embrittlement. Matter of fact, SG came up with a special cleaner for aircraft called Extreme Simple Green.

I don't know if this would be an issue for brass, as I'm not a chemist, but I would be wary of using it.

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Old_School tanks for the tip, learned something new. Apparently the acids are the culprit in the process. Simple Green has only a minute amount of citric in in it compared to the citric we all use to make the cases shiny. While I have never had or heard of anyone else having a problem with this we may all need to rethink using Lemishine or any other acids when cleaning.

from this link - https://www.futurecleansystems.com/how-corrosion-relates-to-cleaning/

Hydrogen Embrittlement Caused by Acid Cleaning
It is quite common to use acid solutions to clean metal surfaces, either as paint or coating preparation, water scale removal or cleaning protein-based soiling. In these circumstances these acids work exceptionally well, nevertheless, acids in solution dissociated releasing hydrogen ions (H+) which are particularly aggressive. Incidentally the common measure of the acidity (or alkalinity) of a solution is the concentration of the hydrogen ions. The hydrogen ions can penetrate the protective surface film and are even small enough to absorb into the metal lattice, where they are reduced to hydrogen. The absorbed hydrogen starts to exert an influence to the metal lattice, although the mechanism is not fully understood, it is likely that hydrogen creates pressure leading to microscopic deformation of the metal lattice. If the metal is under stress, these deformation can lead to the propagation of cracks, eventually leading to complete failure.
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With a pH of 9, Simple Green is alkaline, not acid. That's why I warned about it neutralizing your citric acid in enough quantity. As I also mentioned, citric acid was a government arsenal approved brass cleaner and is used as a pre-storage brass treatment commercially. It will not have a deleterious effect on your brass.

Duda Diesel is where I bought the citric acid I have now. This page lets you see the sizes for comparison. Currently, however, my wife has us signed up with Amazon Prime, and its free shipping feature makes Amazon slightly cheaper for me in 10 lb quantity. On the other hand, I'll probably support the smaller business (Duda) when I get it again.
 
Hummh, hot water, some baking soda, and some vinegar will clean as well as hot water. But, the fizzing is entertaining. If we are talking about mixing chemicals, chloxxxe and amxxxia will kill a gopher in its hole, but only mix them in the hole.
 
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