WD-40 is not the firearm Cure-All

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WHen I use WD-40 on a firearm I make sure it can drain properly, then I use a spray. Like so many things, use WD-40 in the way it was intended and it works fine.
 
I take a can of WD-40 hunting in case I get stuck in a heavy rain. Then I'll soak the guns down in the evening until I can give them a proper cleaning. I'll use CLP or One Shot cleaner/dry lube after I get things cleaned up, but I use very little and only put it where it needs to go. I've learned with duty guns, comp guns and hunting rifles it takes very little to do the job right and even the best lube is no substitute for cleaning.
 
In my past life I have been a rep for both LPS and CRC. If you just want to displace water get some LPS 1 or CRC 2-26. The stuff is very thin and leaves practically no residue.
 
My first exposure to gun cleaning didn't come until I was 18 and at MCRD San Diego. They gave me CLP. I still use it. I still use patches, Q-tips and pipecleaners too. I've added gunscrubber as a shortcut but I still use CLP afterwards.

I've heard of people using WD40 but I wouldn't use it myself unless there was no CLP and it was a necessity. I've heard of people using 10W-30 for that matter. I'm sure it would work but once again, why use it if other purpose built lube like CLP is available.

I've bought a few gun cleaning kits over the years. At least a couple have contained Hoppes no. 9. I've used it interchangeably with CLP. It seems to work fine but I still buy CLP.

Once I went to a relatives vacation home in another state. It was off season and the house was closed up for the winter. I was in the area for a work training trip and they let me spend a weekend. I found my late uncle's shotgun rusting in the front hall closet. I scoured the house for some type of cleaning kit but never found one. I improvised with some rags, paper towels, Q-tips and my aunts sewing machine oil. It was either that or the food grade mineral oil I found under the bathroom sink. I chose the sewing machine oil.
 
Have a shooting friend who loves his Model 42's, some are 70 years old or older - he only uses WD-40 and then wonders why he always seems to have vigorously slam the pump action open to extract his empties - factory fresh or reloaded - but you can't tell him - he's one of the "I've been using this stuff for 50 years" type

so I just walk away and chuckle as he misses another target when the gun sticks
 
and my aunts sewing machine oil.
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Don't knock it. I used 3 in 1 oil on an A5 when I was a young man. I would souse it good and blow the residue out with an air compressor. I never remember the gun jamming even one time. And, that included several of those four and five box dove hunts where I killed four or five doves.:)
 
I thought awhile back the folks that make WD 40 changed their formula slightly so it no longer leaves the sticky film it use to leave.
 
stinks too much to use on hunting guns and evaporates too fast to be a good lubricant. I do use it to wipe down my non hunting guns and I do run a wd40 patch down my barrel to simulate a fouling shot on a clean barrel. I have never seen it gum up or varnish.
 
Hello, everyone. When I was heavy into shooting percussion revolvers, I used WD-40 after water-wash & oven drying. Never had any rust problems.
Later, I used it on a Shilo 1863 percussion military rifle..after sitting unused for a few years, I tried to open lever..wouldn't budge..thought linkage was broken..sprayed some WD-40 between face of breech-block & breech & it popped open..stuff had turned to varnish.
Now days, I use it to clean bullet lube off lubesizers & dies. Very light spray on paper towel for cleaning up bullet bases. Also, good for cleaning hands of heavy grease.
It did get me going after driving thru flooded road & engine got wet.
 
I have a clue. I rust blued for years and if somebody wanted a gun hot blued I shipped it out in parts. The people I dealt with wanted customers to coat the parts in WD-40 and let them sit a day or two to dry. This was better than having oil soaking the package. The WD-40 set up like Elmer's Glue.
 
WD-40 works quite well for what is is designed to do. Penetrate and displace moisture. If a firearm has been sitting around for a couple of years, it works great to loosen up the oils and lubes before cleaning. I usually remove the firearm from the stock and disassemble into major groups. Then I apply a liberal amount of WD-40 to the metal parts and let soak for about 20 minutes or so. After soaking, I use Brake Kleen and thoroughly rinse all parts and let dry. From there I use normal gun cleaning solutions and gun oil to lubricate. I also use a little bit of STP on some surfaces such as slides and areas where the bolt slides against the action.

BTW, If you happen to get a little road tar on your car, it works well to remove it. Spray it on, let set a couple of minutes, wipe off with cloth and depending on how much is on the car this may have to be done several times. When almost all gone, some dish soap and water will finish the job and then rinse with water.
 
I use WD40 quite a bit, but not on firearms except to loosen up old guns prior to a good cleaning, and as a wipe down after being out in the rain, such as a day in the wet deer woods. It does work well for that. A proper cleaning follows later.
 
Have used WD-40 as part of my cleaning/maintenance routine on all types of guns, and fishing reels, for many years. Never a problem.

I use it primarily as a cleaner/flusher, not as a final coat of lubricant.

If you leave enough lube/cleaner, regardless of type or brand, to drip down through the firing pin hole onto ammo, it's your negligence, not a fault of the lube. If you overlube an action and soak the stock over time, it's your negligence, not a fault of the lube. Any lube will affect wood over time.

Agree with #14 post above.
 
Seems we've been down this road before. I found back in the day that if you leave it on anything it will gum up eventually.
WD 40 never touches any of my firearms anymore. I'll use motor oil before WD 40.
 
I have used WD 40 professionally for almost 40 years- as a jeweler, gunsmith, engraver, engineer, cutler, and musician.
WD 40 is a tool. If you learn to use it as such-within the parameters of it's design, it is a very good tool. I have never been able to get WD 40 to "gum" badly, even though I have tried. It's lubricant is a light mineral oil. There are better lubricants for specific purposes. It's great for water displacement, rust protection (even in spots you can't get to,) lubricating SOME things, conditioning guitar strings, as a cutting fluid, and as a cleaner.
 
In a pinch it can work as wasp killer. The new can with the fold-down nozzle will spray about 6' and give you room to retreat. It's a slow death for them and they are determined to make a last stand.
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BEST USE EVER

I had a serious problem with yellow jackets last summer, and FINALLY got rid of them using WD40.
 
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