Want to get a revolver, S&W 19 or...?

HK_Flo

New member
I'm looking to buy my 1st revolver. Have a few autos and want something different. A little wood and metal to class up the plastic guns.

I *think* I want a Smith 19, but I don't know much about them.

S3u1s4E.jpg


They look amazing though.

Anything I should look for? - revisions to avoid? Any other guns that are similar I should compare to?
 
Great gun!! I have the stainless cousin known as the model 66.

A few things I think you may want to consider:

I would take a look at the 586 (assuming you want a blued revolver). Main difference between the two is the 19 is a K frame (smaller) and the 586 is an L frame (larger).

If you go with the 19 I would only recommend shooting heavier .357 rounds like a 158 grain, while avoiding the lighter rounds like the 125 grain. The reason being is that there have been documented cases that the lighter round will actually cause flame cutting on the forcing cone on the K frames. This doesn't seem to be an issue for the L frame revolvers.
 
Great choice! That's what I wanted for the first revolver. I ended up with Model 66, which is same exact gun, but in stainless steel. Look it up, you may like it even better. It doesn't have a classic dark blue color, but the up side is that it's a little easier to take care of due to to stainless.

Overall Model 19 use to come with 2.5", 4" and 6" barrels. That's the first choice to make. On the picture it looks like 4" barrel though. Also earlier versions have pinned barrels and recessed cylinder which considered to be more desirable even though there is no proof that they are any better from the stand point of design. However they usually fetch premium. So chances are you can get a non-pinned & recessed model for less and it's going to be a newer gun. If you need it for shooting, it makes no difference. If you are looking for a collectable piece, then pinned & recessed will probably be a better choice.

You will soon hear how K-Frame Magnums (especially Model 19 and somewhat Model 66) have a forcing cone cracking "problem" under a lot of Magnum loads. I am not in the mood to explain this problem in details, as this will take an entire page. The bottom line is that this issue is so rare and negligent that it should not turn you away form Model 19, which is one of the classiest S&W revolvers.
 
If you can find one they are great. I had a 19 and I currently have a 66. They just plain feel good in your hand. Shooting IDPA I see allot of 19/66. Those guys shoot allot and they hold up, (though mostly 38spl.)
 
I was also considering the 586 "classic" model new.

I didn't realize that that is a bigger frame size. I probably do need to go down and see if they have some to rent at the local range.
 
A few random thoughts...

The L frame was purposefully designed to duplicate the dimensions of the K frame through the trigger and grip area. The N frame has a slightly larger span between the backstrap and trigger, which can be uncomfortable for shooters with smaller hands; OTOH the smaller K/L grip can be made to feel larger with custom wraparound grips.

The K frames are the lightest with equal barrel lengths, which renders them more "pointable" at the cost of more severe recoil. The L and N frames generally have similar (heavier) weights with equal length barrels, although the L frame will usually be more muzzle-heavy. The reason for this is that most L frame variants have full barrel underlugs, which generally offset the slightly smaller frame and cylinder.

Don't ignore fixed-sight guns; they are arguably more carry-friendly, and generally cost less than the adjustable-sight versions. The fixed-sight K frame equivalents of the M19 and M66 were the M13 and M65 respectively.

The M13/65 seems to have sold better with a 3" barrel than the M19/66, and the 3" barrel is the shortest length that allows a full-length ejector rod capable of positively pushing a .357Mag case fully clear of the cylinder. The more common 2-1/2" guns have a "shorty" rod that can't push a stuck case all the way out- a rare problem if you use good reloading technique, but a potential problem nonetheless.

The SS version of the M586 is (logically) the M686. However, unlike the fixed-sight equivalents of the K frame guns, the fixed-sight L frames- the M581/681- are quite uncommon due to abbreviated production runs. S&W had the misfortune to offer these guns right when many LE agencies started to switch to high-capacity semi-auto "wonder nines" and lose interest in less-expensive fixed-sight .357s. :(
 
The marks on the rear of the cylinder where the case rims would sit? I saw those but was not sure if that is normal or not.
 
I have seen the M-19 (I have 2) described as a "38 that can shoot 357s" while the N-frames are true 357s. The L frame was S&W's attempt to compete with Colt's Python. Some have recommend avoiding the lighter jacketed rounds in it, citing problems of flame cutting, I have found that ye Olde Standby of a 158gr SWC provides ots of shooting pleasure and is easier on the barrel.
 
I still have my model 19 4" from the early 70's and will never part with it, its a great shooting gun and a pleasure to shoot. Very accurate.
You can't go wrong with a model 19 4" for a great all around gun.
 
S&W 19 or...........all the rest. 19's are tack driving accurate, reliable, well made and look good doing all that.

Nothing nicer than a good 19. Everything you need in a revolver and nothing you don't. Made during a time when that famous logo meant something.

Good luck with your decision. Regards 18DAI
 
The gun in the picture has a barrel pin and, I assumed recessed chambers. That's a pretty desirable configuration if you can find it. Smith changed that in the 80s which diminished the collector's value somewhat, but still was a fine firearm. I only own one S&W revolver that is not pinned and recessed, but it's a fine gun.

Whatever revolver you buy, familiarize yourself with the thread I've linked. It was very thoughtfully written for anyone contemplating buying a used revolver.

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57816
 
The marks on the rear of the cylinder where the case rims would sit? I saw those but was not sure if that is normal or not.
They're normal on a blued gun that has been carried extensively. The cartridge cases slow rub off the finish as they rattle around.

OTOH I think that the apparent marks on the gun in the GB auction are actually something else- perhaps just irregular lighting. I find that cartridge rub marks are usually accompanied by pronounced holster wear. It's unusual to see one without the other.
 
You need to see what fits your hands the best ....first thing....so get to a range where you can rent and shoot K, L and N frame S&W's in .357 mag...

I have some of each frame size and like them all ...but the N frame fits my hands the best / question is, what fits yours the best..?? You're also going to have to figure out whether you prefer the Square Butt or the Round Butt frames...( I like the SQ Butt - fills my hands better )...but what fits yours ??

I'm not a big fan, esthetically, of the internal frame safety ( small round hole on left side of gun - you lock and unlock )...but if that doesn't bother you - then new is ok.

At different points in each models history S&W went to some MIM parts, internal locks, etc.....and in model 19's that happened in 1997 during the model 19-7 series. Model 19's were made from 1957 thru 1999. I like the model 19 a lot ...but I prefer it in Nickel over blued / finish holds up better in and out of holster.

If I carry a revolver its either a model 19 or 66 ( both K frames ) in a 4"...the 4", for me, is much easier to shoot accurately ---where I find the 2" or 2 1/2" with the shorter sight plane is harder to shoot accurately. If it was a range gun....I'd go with a 6"...
 
You need to see what fits your hands the best ....first thing....so get to a range where you can rent and shoot K, L and N frame S&W's in .357 mag...

That's a very sound advice!

I was quick to vouch for Model 19/66 in the beginning of this tread and I love the way mine looks and feels. But before I bought it I went to a few different ranges and rented J, K and L frames in S&W as well as SP and GP Rugers. After trying all of them and annoying the hell out of older member of the forum with a whole bunch of questions I came to a conclusion that K-Frame fits me best.

Even though I still maintain my case that Model 19 is the prettiest in the bunch, you owe to yourself to try all other available sizes/models before you settle for it. :)
 
I think the 19/66 is a solid choice. They once dominated the LEO departments due to their size and aesthetics. I think you get the best of both worlds with the k-frame. A great service revolver for carry and good accuracy.
 
A man can't live with just one revolver..../ well ok, I could, but I'd be unhappy ....:(

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85935&d=1357929955
(pair of model 19's Nickel 4" at lower right / pair of model 66's 4" at upper right / blued gun is a model 27 N frame / and L frame model 686 6" top left

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85934&d=1357929854 model 66's 2 1/2" and 4"... ( round butt on 2 1/2" ...)

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=82010&d=1339790943 - a single action Freedom Arms.../ I had made in .357 mag as well ...

( I'm a .357 Mag addict ...all but one are S&W --- and I Like It !! )....
 
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