walmart remington 700

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was at walmart yesterday and saw a remington 700 with a super crappy scope for around 400$. what makes this different from a real remington 700? is it just furniture and finish? is it the same action as remongton 700's 3x the cost?
i am just wondering if this would make a good rifle to build a decent ranged rifle from, or is this just totally different than the ever famously accurate 700's. thanks
 
Same action, but missing the bottom metal it is what they call an ADL rifle. Also realize Wal-Mart has buying power that a lot of stores don't have, and can offer things at a discount. Awhile back they were blowing out camouflage ADL's with the "crappy" scope in .243 Win, .270 Win, and .30-06 for $297 + tax, I wish I had bought a dozen of them.

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Sorry for the "crappy" cell phone pick through the display case. :D
 
Its still a 700. Some people think that everyone wants/needs to get the SPS, CDL, Sendero, or what ever other sub-model there is for it to be a "real 700". The ADL's are still good rifles just a lot cheaper than the others. The same aftermarket parts will fit as well.
 
thanks for the replies. my main and only concern is the action. i would like a suitable 700 action to add new barrel, stock etc to. i put my very first bolt-action rifle on layaway today. already shopping for shilen barrels. very excited.

p.s. not sure if a mosin counts as a true bolt-action rifle, but you know what i mean.
 
Criterion has a Remage barrel---fits on the 700 action, and has a nut just like the Savage barrels. Unless you are a smithy, doing your own barrel is not for most of us. But with these pre-fit drop in barrels then us average Joes can do a barrel replacement.

Good luck with your project! Sounds like fun----I am kinda jealous.
 
have always wanted a 308 700, but thought that these budget models had to be a different rifle for some reason. since the "good" 700's run close to 7-800$. i never wanted to drop that kind of coin because i knew i would want a new longer match barrel, a chasis system and the works. so i had bee shopping just bare 700 action or svage 10 actions and they are all 400$ or more. if i had known these had the same 700 action i would have boght one long ago. wifewont be happy about this one, need to keep this one under the radar for awhile.

thanks for the input. so what's better? kreiger, criterion or shilen? kreiger appears to be the priciest and shilen the most economical. does that tell me my answer right there?

i see the criterion also does the barrel nut, but it's not of super importance, i prefer accuracy over convenience. does the barrel nut type diminish accuracy at all? seems like it may not be as solid as screwed dirctly ion the reciever.
 
that's very true

anways, i could dream and drool all night. i should probably just wait until it's in my hands and pick out what kind of stock i want to sap it into first, then get as much trigger time as i can before deciding on barrel swaps.

so......besides something in the accuracy inernational price ranges. whats a good stock platform for outdoor, proned distance shooting? is the new magpul stock as good as they claim? also, i know ATI isn't known for setting records or anything, but my archangel on my mosin nagant is an incredibly stable rig and not cheap for the 700(well, not expensive either at a little oevr 300). i just wnt something solid and stable enough for 800 and hopefully 1000yard shooting in the future w/o breaking the bank. i understand it's a difficult goal, but i have become extremely proficient shooting 600's with a 14x and a .223, can hit the 20x20 steel without fail everytime, so i am thinking 800 with a .308 and a good 20x glass might not be dreaming too big with lots of load devlopment and practice. so, any good stocks,er....i mean "chassis" for under 400$ that;ll help get me there? i promise i'll stop asking about parts for a rifle i don't own yet after this. you know how excited we get when we have something new coming along.
 
unfortuneatly the trigger locks were on at walmart. how's the trigger on the budget 700's? ned changing or workable?
 
Change it. Go with a Shilen, Jewell, or Timney. I'm only mentioning those 3 because thats what I have in my 3 700's. Worlds of difference between the factory trigger and those aftermarket ones.
 
math teacher said:
The barrel nut system seems to work great for Savage.
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The barrel nut doesn't help any with.accuracy it's just a cheaper and easier way to install a rifle barrel. The floating bolt head is probably the largest contributing factor to Savage's accuracy. It makes everything line up without having to true the action. I wouldn't use a Rem-age barrel unless the OP plans on changing cartridges a lot.

Question to the OP, what is the rifle you bought chambered in? You might want to try shooting if stock for awhile. The reason I say this is you actually don't know what you actually need yet. Buy a quality scope and a good set of rings and bases and go shoot it for awhile. Slow down your plans and be patient study and learn the difference between what is needed for your rifle and what isn't to make your plans a reality.

The trigger on the M700 is going to feel like a vast improvement over your Mosin, so you may not feel the need to replace it right away. The replacement triggers suggested are all good ones. Depending on which one you choose they might be nearly as expensive as your rifle to buy.

As far as stocks/chases go I'd look to a Bell & Carlson Medalist they have a stock in your price range. The bad thing is whatever you build won't be as cheap as what you could buy. If you really wanted a chassis system check out Ruger's new Precision Rifle for around $1000 you might get really close to what you want.
 
thanks for the replies. my main and only concern is the action. i would like a suitable 700 action to add new barrel, stock etc to. i put my very first bolt-action rifle on layaway today. already shopping for shilen barrels. very excited.
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A lot of ADL's are sold at Wally World with exactly this in mind. You can recoup some $$ for the barrel- unfired, as well as little bit for the stock perhaps.
 
taylorce1. it's .308. i already have the timney on my mosin, so i will probably want a decent trigger one day. but i think i will start with a stock job and then a barrel before i get into comfort things like triggers etc. the min reason i have never delved into a real rifle that can shoot great distances is i knew that a great piece of glass is going to be a big investment. but lately i have been seeing folks hitting 1000's with Muellers offerings, which i persoally find very clear, high quality and way better priced than the nightforce/vortex/millet counters. this will be a long term project for me, i want to just do this once and do it right, not saying money won't be an abject, but i will not be cutting corners like i do on some of my rifles. a 700 has always been a dream of mine, or a model 10, and i had no clue that it was acheiveable. i thought for sure that these "budget 700's were somethng completely different than the high priced ones. thanks for the input guys. this may be my first and last bolt-actionfor a really long time, and will be taking it slow. maybe this time next year i will be able to look appreciably towards it and have what i really want. i will absolutely shoot this barrel a good bit while i hone my bolt skills, something i haven't ever really taken too seriously in my past. i am glad to be, hopefully, stepping up to a more mature and quality firarm rather than my AR's and levers etc. i am unexplainabley happy.

sorry, no spell check on my tab for some reason
 
One of my 700s is a wlly world 30-06. I adjusted the trigger and cleaned it very well. It is very nice and consistent. Thats what matters most to me is that my pull is repeatable. I know there is a lot of controversy over the 700 trigger and it has been beat to death but this particular trigger works very well and is better than my accutriggers adjusted all the way down. Not that the savage triggers are match grade. However, even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while. :rolleyes:
 
When you re-barrel, go with a short action 6.5mm like the creedmoor. It's like cheating compared to a 308w. 308 is a great cartridge and fun to shoot, but if this will be your one precision bolt gun, get in a better suited cartridge.

I have a creedmoor on the exact action you're talking about. Bought the rifle at Wally World and sent it to AO in Winder.
 
A walmart near me has a 700, 7mm rem mag, in that matte black finish. $377.00
Thats a decent deal, with some elbow grease a fellar could make a super shooting hunting rifle that would do a lifetime of deer and elk hunting.m
 
In regards to barrels

Here is an interesting article I found a while back. I'm not completely familiar with the Precision Rifle Series, but they seem to cover a lot of the different veins of shooting long range. I asked a question on here about 2 weeks ago you might could pull up.

What the Pros Use:
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2014/11/18/rifle-barrels-what-the-pros-use/

I bought a Shilen in 260 Rem to put on my Savage and have been extremely happy with it considering its cost. I'm not a competition shooter that needs that extra .002" shaved off my group to be competitive, so I was more than happy to try the cheaper Shilen.
 
A lot of ADL's are sold at Wally World with exactly this in mind. You can recoup some $$ for the barrel- unfired, as well as little bit for the stock perhaps.
Click to expand...

I did that. Ended up getting $80 for the take-off barrel, nobody wanted the stock and metal.

You normally need the BDL trigger guard, which I got from Brownells, I think it is about $100.
 
You may not have the money to get a new stock right away, so you can try a trick that has served me well to improve those injection-molded factory ones.

Just buy some relatively cheap epoxy and fill the barrel channel of a floppy stock to stiffen it. It's absolutely amazing how stiff you can make it with a quarter-inch to a half-inch of epoxy, depending on the void. Sand out the channel to achieve a good barrel free-float before filling the forend and make sure to keep the epoxy fill at least 1/16" below the barrel.

You may also want to pillar-bed it, but that's a bit more advanced work.

JP
 
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