Vaquero or Cimarron P?

I had a set of custom grips made..which with what they charged, made me learn how to make my own. This again, is a great shooter, and very well made..this Cimmaron is my keeper..
 
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And another thing: As to being able to do more to a Ruger than a Uberti, as far as alterations are concerned, this Colt is typical of what can be done with a Colt, Uberti or other simnilar Single Action:

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This gun is a Colt, but could just as well been a Uberti. The backstrap is from a Colt 1851 Navy, the rear sight is Smith & Wesson N-Frame, the front sight is a Ruger Blackhawk. The one-piece grips I made myself.

In addition, the Uberti-made trigger guard and backstrap from an 1860 Army replica can be fitted fairly easily. And, anyone handy with metal working can use a Uberti made grip straps from a Bisley to make up a No. 5 Keith type design.

Bob Wright
 
L_Killkenny wrote:

You guys that do still driving 1965 Fords as your daily drivers? Bettin not. Bet your driving newer, better trucks/cars.

A 1965 Ford is a forty seven year old auto. An Uberti is an 1873 design that was made in 2012.

Better? It still puts the bullet where I want it. Which, after all is said and done, is the bottom line.

Bob Wright
 
pistle

i like my valquero it shhot great it is the older model with the larger grip .
 

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I handled a Stampede at the Shot Show in January and must admit that it felt really good and had the 'clicks'...

That said:
I have both a New Vaquero and original Vaquero - both in 45LC.
I've also got a stainless Ruger Blackhawk Flattop in 45LC/45ACP.

Love all three and especially like the New Vaquero.
It has fixed sights, but at 20yds I can easily shoot out the bullseye on targets and it shoots EXACTLY to point of aim.

Even though I shoot Rugers, I still do the load one, skip one, load four, cock and drop the hammer on the empty chamber.

My recommendation:
Try them both at your local range or at least handle them in a store.

To that point:
I cannot buy any SAA type revolver in .357/.38Spl. The bore is too small and the barrel too thick. The balance feels very forward biased.
Whether with a 4 3/8"bbl or the 5 1/2"bbl, the 45LC feels perfect to me.
So, definitely handle them and see what you like best then BUY IT! :D

Regards,
Mike
 
Flash, why cock the hammer on a Ruger New Model? When we load 'em with five rounds per SASS rules, the drill is:

Open the loading gate;

Load one,

Skip one,

Load four,

Close the gate,

Rotate the cylinder until it stops.

Voila! Empty chamber is under the hammer.
 
Hi Crunchy,

I was taught that with Vaqueros or Blackhawks, if you close the loading gate and then rotate the cylinder, then the cylinder stop (or whatever that little locking notch is called) will drag against the cylinder and that's how you get those drag line scratches on the cylinder between the notches.

If you close the loading gate and cock the hammer, the cylinder stop retracts, the cylinder rotates, you can safely ease the hammer down on the empty chamber using the trigger and nothing scrapes against the cylinder.

Have you found that to NOT be the case if you just rotate the cylinder until it stops???

Regards,
Mike
 
You have me there. I'll take a look the next time I have them out.

I know at one point I tried rotating the cylinder to line up the empty chamber with the barrel before closing the gate, but too often I did not time it right, causing it to miss locking up at the desired point.

I know that the "drill" for Colt style single actions is to pull the hammer to full cock before lowering on the empty chamber. If you let the hammer down from half cock it causes the bolt to drag on the cylinder.
 
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