You do whatever makes you happy.
I own and know how to use hand held power tools. I do not own a Dremel.
I have handpieces from 1/4 in collet 10,000 RPM 1/2 hp version of a "Foredom type" tool to a true dentist 90 deg 175,000 rpm tool.That includes conventional Foredoms and a delightful 65,000 rpm air pencil grinder.
For good measure,I also own and know how to use a 0-14,000 stroke per minute reciprocating DME Jiffy Profiler.
I have spent a lot of professional time with those tools in my hands.
One difference from a Dremel is quality of spindle bearings and rigidity.
The higher end tools run the wheel true. Once you dress your stone,you do not get the vibration,bounce,skitter,and the MOST fun with the dremel,when the cutter gets "Traction",bites in,and runs across your work.
I'm not condemning the Dremel,its just that once you have used better tools...
The other thing is the difference between surface finish and form and dimension. Usually what the desired result is? better surface finish with minimal alteration of form and dimension. That end is not necessarily best pursued with a 27,000 rpm semi-controllable tool.
The goal is to knockoff and flatten the high friction peaks of the surface finish without deepening the valleys. Many hobbyist techniques ,like a soft buff,cut the valleys and the peaks at the same time.Eventually,all definition is washed out.There is a better way.
Hand held mold polishing stones,such as Gesswein,come in a variety of grits and hardnesses. They can be dressed on a belt sander or bench grinder to the rough shape of the feed ramp or contoured part,ot left flat for flat surfaces.
They break down to conform to the steel and remain sharp.
They have the definition to only cut the peaks,and span over the valleys.
As you "Drawstone"perhaps in the direction of travel,as in up a feed ramp,your microscopic grit lines are direction of travel.Lower friction.
Your eyes see the progress as the toolmarks diminish.You stop working the spots that are good.
I don't worry about the low spots. They hold lube and trap dirt.So I take approximately 1/2 the depth of tool finish off to leave "plateau" to slide on.
Usually.The real key is just floating off the high spots.
I seldom pursue mirror shine. Why?
If you want to keep part dimension and geometry true,(function) remove minimal material . The "peaks"
You will find the definition and control in a stone that your hands power.
Any power tool buffing is to knock the peaks of your fine stone finish.
That is done in seconds with a brush or felt and diamond compound or aluminum oxide lapping compound about 900 grit or finer.
Flat parts? Cheaper than a Dremel you can get a 9 by 12 in granite surface plate. You can use wet/dry paper. I prefer Mylar lapping sheets.
Flat will stay flat.
Sear notches,etc? Just plain "NO!" to soft buffs and unguided hand work in general. Surface grinder or sear jig! Only.
Don't get me wrong. A Dremel is a great,useful tool. The cutoff wheels alone are worth a lot. You CAN shape,blend,and polish with a Dremel.
But a lot of 1911 frames have been ruined by an ill guided Dremel on a feed ramp. Shiny,though.