Use of Gun Wax

I think what Mike is trying to say is that, with a little care, a can of Johnson's should last you a lifetime even if you have 100 guns to wax!
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I was just waiting for an excuse to buy 86 more guns.

Thanks for the tips. I would not have thought to wax a gun.
 
I didn't see mentioned here but Renaissance Wax also doesn't take/show fingerprints easily. Not of great appearance unless you really like the idea.
 
Would the general consensus be that some form of paste wax is better than Paralketone?

I wouldn't mind finding a cheaper alternative to the Paralketone.
 
Would the general consensus be that some form of paste wax is better than Paralketone?

I wouldn't mind finding a cheaper alternative to the Paralketone.
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In my experience anything related to aircraft is going to be expensive. I've had excellent experience with Breakfree COLLECTOR and it's certainly cheaper.
 
The NRA Museum recommends Renaissance Wax.

I find it works great on most any internal part you would be told to protect with oil. Shooting or storing.

My question, that I cannot get a definitive answer for, does the I use of this product, on a Glock, constitute the prohibited use of polish on internal parts?

This polish does not remove material like flitz or Wenol. RW does not change the appearance to internal Glock parts like Wenol does. Polishing rag stays clean looking when RW is used. A Glock trigger, after the working parts are treated with RW are so smooth, it is not to be believed until you try it. It is so good, it must be a Glock violation of ones Armorer agreement somehow. lol


http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-Ren...r=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Renaissance+Wax+Polish
 
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Holy crap!

7 ounces of Ren wax is nearly $22, whereas a 1 pound can of Johnson's is about $7.

And I can use the Johnson's on my furniture and my stove and my refrigerator...

Now I know Doug Wicklund and Phil Shrier at the NRA museum are doing with my money... They're buying Ren wax! :D
 
An importand distinction in waxes. Several waxes are sold as museum wax, but they are used for two different applications. One wax is used to fasten collectables to a shelf or table, so it is not easily knocked off and damaged. I do not think that type of wax is used to preserve wood or steal.
 
There are a number of different products used by museums to fix items to display shelves, including an adhesive, non-staining wax, a putty-like material (sort of like the 3-M removeable adhesive), and one used for affixing glass, porcelain, and pottery to shelves. I THINK that one is fairly new, because when I worked at the Pennsylvania State Museum back in the early 1980s the decorative arts and housewares people used a sodium silicate solution.
 
We used Museum Wax to stick things onto shelves and to keep them from shifting in case of a tremor. If an object was large or heavy, a stiff wire rod was attached to a secured base and nylon line used to tie the object to it and that kept it from shifting or falling over in an earthquake. One thing about Museum Wax is that it is reusable and is great for curio cabinets. I sent a can to my buddy's wife. She lost a huge china collection when stuff tipped.

Mike mentioned the price difference between Johnson Paste Wax and Renaissance Wax. Huge difference. It all depends on what you're preserving. If you have a valuable family heirloom that will never be used again, use Renaissance Wax. If you have something that may be handled and fired, use Johnson or even RIG Gun Grease. Not everything is rare, scarce or museum quality. Keep things cost effective.

Remember, food, fuel and the family comes first. Object preservation is secondary.
 
If I needed to wax a gymnasium floor, that would require a lot of wax, so the price per ounce would be a factor. However, my modest gun collection I can splerge a bit and use the museum grade stuff. I have waxed a few guns, some several times (carry guns) and the can is still almost full. I would guess a can would last most people a lifetime if you dont start eating the stuff on toast.
 
I'm surprised that Johnson's hasn't marketed its product to the gun community. Heck, it could put its product in a tin 1/10th the size, paint it in cammo, charge $11.98 for it and their profit margins would skyrocket!
 
A little wax trivia. Need to turn a piece of wood into something indestructible ? Boil the wood in paraffin wax. It becomes waterproof and gets very hard. Petrified hard. Only thing is, better bolt it to where it is going, not going to be able to glue it in place. Learned that from an old man, years ago, that used to make prosthetics in a shoe repair store.
 
A bunch of the guys over at the Rohrbaugh Forum (myself included) have been using Renaissance Wax for years. Yeah, it's expensive, but I'm still on my first can after 8 yrs. Good Ol Johnson's wax drys out way before that and has to to be deep sixed. So, is Johnson's really cheaper? It sure is not better.
 
"Good Ol Johnson's wax drys out way before that and has to to be deep sixed."

Hey Reinz, would you be so kind as to tell the can of JSP that I bought in 1982 or 1983 that it's lived past its life span?

It won't listen to me, and just keeps soldiering along.

It and I did have a very nice discussion a few weeks ago when I pulled it out to wax my dresser. I enjoy reminiscing with out about the Reagan '80s. :)

Please note also that JSP can be easily revived with a splash of Ronson fluid/naptha.
 
Good Ol Johnson's wax drys out way before that and has to to be deep sixed. So, is Johnson's really cheaper? It sure is not better.
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Ha ha ha - the problem with Johnson's is THEY GIVE YOU TOO MUCH TO USE for $7.00! It wouldn't dry out if they only gave you a shoe-polish sized tin, which would still last you 5 years.:D
 
I've tried using Johnson's on wood furniture - believe me, I like real wood! But, even good furniture and wood floors are coated with some type of polyurethane coating, so it might as well be plastic!!! Plus, the wife thinks the stuff stinks (not me - I like that old gasoline smell:D)
 
BTW, the "original" wax applied to gun stocks in America was beeswax. Several gunmakers (Wallace Gusler and Gary Brumfield) would even wax the interior of the stock along the barrel channels, inlet for receiver and trigger guard, buttplate and pipes/thimbles and seal the wood that way.
 
"But, even good furniture and wood floors are coated with some type of polyurethane coating"

Not my wood furniture...

Of course, almost all of my furniture was made before polyurethan was first developed right before World War II...
 
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