VictorLouis
New member
You may be right, as far as Cor-Bon goes, but that would be the only one that I can think of. I've shot much of Rem. and Winchester in that weight, and none of it comes close to the mack-daddy 125s in velocity.
Use of .38 special or .357 magnum?? Answer needed, please!
- Thread starter hjm
- Start date
You may be right, as far as Cor-Bon goes, but that would be the only one that I can think of. I've shot much of Rem. and Winchester in that weight, and none of it comes close to the mack-daddy 125s in velocity.
Neal Bloom, J Newell, Victor Lewis (and others) . . .
Permit me to attempt a different approach to Neal's question: "Can someone explain to me why a 125 grain round is harder on a gun than a 158 grain round? Is this specific to Smiths or is it true of all manufacturers?"
If we go back to basic physics -- Newton's Laws -- we shall remember that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Thus, forward energy vectors must create equal, rearward loads to be absorbed.
Since:
1) Energy varies with the square of the speed (E=MVV/2)
2) Lighter projectiles/bullets will have greater initial velocity (given the same propellant) and much greater muzzle energy, due to the exponential nature of E=MVV/2
Therefore, the firearm -- and the person holding it, for that matter -- will necessarily have to absorb more "reactive energy" from a lighter, faster projectile than from a heavier, slower bullet.
Permit me to attempt a different approach to Neal's question: "Can someone explain to me why a 125 grain round is harder on a gun than a 158 grain round? Is this specific to Smiths or is it true of all manufacturers?"
If we go back to basic physics -- Newton's Laws -- we shall remember that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Thus, forward energy vectors must create equal, rearward loads to be absorbed.
Since:
1) Energy varies with the square of the speed (E=MVV/2)
2) Lighter projectiles/bullets will have greater initial velocity (given the same propellant) and much greater muzzle energy, due to the exponential nature of E=MVV/2
Therefore, the firearm -- and the person holding it, for that matter -- will necessarily have to absorb more "reactive energy" from a lighter, faster projectile than from a heavier, slower bullet.
Don Mallard
New member
crawl first
HJM,
You have a very deep well of information to absorb concerning the recommendations they are presenting you.
If we (me plus all the other members) were to figure all collective years of experience we have in 'dealing' with the broad question you posed then we would have a very thick book of information.
I have read 'between-the lines' concerning you and I think I have 'ONE' major suggestion to you. At this point --where you are concerned ----I am not in agreement or in line with the other posts ---because-- I think if you should purchase some quality brand ammo reload equipment and learn to load 38 special wadcutter target ammunition. If that does not appeal to you at this point then I highly suggest you purchase a 1000 round case of wadcutters. Shoot them in your fine md 66 which you indicated you have.
Go to a Law Enforcment firearms training facility and ask them to tell you how to begin practice with your revolver with the target ammo.
Write down their simple instructions
The best place to start-anything- is at the beginning.-- More especially with a handgun.
Firearms are hard to master
A handgun is the hardest firearm of them all to master.
Start at the 7 yd line and slow draw and fire unaimed shots at a standard B-27 Target.
When you have fired 1000 rounds at the first stage of the handgun training exercise and you can draw and fire and hit the 2" center of the target with every shot then you are in a position to proceed to the next stage. If you really want to master your handgun I know how to teach you -even in the cyber world-
I am willing to give my three decades of handgun knowledge away ---if you want to learn.
Just crawl before you walk and thenyou attempt to run.
It takes a lot of time and practice with your handgun. You should not start off with +P ammo or full power magnums.
I highly suggest you start off slow and then you can concern yourself with the various 'types' of ammo later.
I am here to help if you want it.
DonMallard
HJM,
You have a very deep well of information to absorb concerning the recommendations they are presenting you.
If we (me plus all the other members) were to figure all collective years of experience we have in 'dealing' with the broad question you posed then we would have a very thick book of information.
I have read 'between-the lines' concerning you and I think I have 'ONE' major suggestion to you. At this point --where you are concerned ----I am not in agreement or in line with the other posts ---because-- I think if you should purchase some quality brand ammo reload equipment and learn to load 38 special wadcutter target ammunition. If that does not appeal to you at this point then I highly suggest you purchase a 1000 round case of wadcutters. Shoot them in your fine md 66 which you indicated you have.
Go to a Law Enforcment firearms training facility and ask them to tell you how to begin practice with your revolver with the target ammo.
Write down their simple instructions
The best place to start-anything- is at the beginning.-- More especially with a handgun.
Firearms are hard to master
A handgun is the hardest firearm of them all to master.
Start at the 7 yd line and slow draw and fire unaimed shots at a standard B-27 Target.
When you have fired 1000 rounds at the first stage of the handgun training exercise and you can draw and fire and hit the 2" center of the target with every shot then you are in a position to proceed to the next stage. If you really want to master your handgun I know how to teach you -even in the cyber world-
I am willing to give my three decades of handgun knowledge away ---if you want to learn.
Just crawl before you walk and thenyou attempt to run.
It takes a lot of time and practice with your handgun. You should not start off with +P ammo or full power magnums.
I highly suggest you start off slow and then you can concern yourself with the various 'types' of ammo later.
I am here to help if you want it.
DonMallard
Here's an easy way to understand it: a .357 is built to withstand the magnum load... and the engine in my car is designed to rev to 6,000 before it blows. I choose not to drive my car near redline frequently, and choosing to not shoot magnums in a .357 all the time is a similar choice. Why buy a .357 and shoot .38 +p all the time? Because you get a much sturdier gun that is nearly the same cost and weight compared to ".38 spcl" versions.
Ed Brunner
New member
I agree that you have received a lot of good info here. Learning how to shoot double action with a Model 66 is what got me into reloading almost 30 years ago. The idea of using .38Spl ammo didn't appeal to me. I ended up with a slew of .38Spl brass so I loaded a pretty hot +P load with a very hard 158 gr SWC. I don't remember the powder I used, but I shot thousands of them and the leading wasn't bad. It worked pretty well.