Uberti Walker

As Willie says:
The wedge is to hold the barrel in place. It is not to adjust cylinder barrel gap. Adjust the arbor length and you can flatten the wedge driving it in and not change the cylinder/barrel gap.
This is far more common on the Ubertis than the Piettas.
Only problem is that Pietta does not make a Walker.
My first BP revolver was a Remington as was my second, third and fourth. It was only after I tried an 1860 for the first time did I sell all of my Remingtons.
I bought both Uberti and Pietta 1860s until I ran across the arbor problem. I now have a bunch of 1860s and they are all Piettas.
Current favorites are 5.5" barrel sweethearts. Polished up, cleaned up, new springs as appropriate and latest, Slix nipples (Hot Shot variation).
 
latch

no. I have lightly filed the rounded part of the latch so it is flatter and engages the loading lever better.
I also took a piece of thin leather and cut it to slip over barrel and lever.
Mine would drop when new with only 40 grn.
Now it pretty much stays with 50 gr. The leather is just added insurance when doing a timed shoot.

Haven't shot the new Walker in a match yet, but if it is as good as my old one I'll be ticked!
 
walkerholsters001.jpg


I discovered 60 grains is fun but not accurate, 50 grains and some corn meal was just as much fun, made more smoke and was a little more accurate. I get less smoke but any charge between 35 and 45 gr of FFFg Goex is accurate. I'm not trying to shoot bison or marauding bandido's so that is my load. I gets my fun hearing or seeing the target get hit where I want it hit.
 
robhof

I've found from 25 to 40 with filler gets a lot more shots down range during a session. When I 1st got mine I tried the 50 and 60gr loads and didn't hit the target; a 2'by 3' sign board, dropped to 40 and had a nice group and could figure where to hold and start backing up the target, now I can place it out to 50' and still get a group til my arms tire of holding that monster up. I usually switch to my 31cal or 36 cal to finish my round.:D:)
 
wedges.

Willie, not arguing with you, just presenting a different point of view / opinion, based on my experiences in alligning a lot of rotating connecting power drive shafts.

actually if the wedge holes and the wedge are properly machined.
Meaning the wedge holes in the arbor and the barrel assembly are in
perfect alignment with each other and are cut square to each other, And the wedge is properly shaped with the same taper from heel to toe on both sides, Then as long as the arbor does not bottom out in the arbor hole, then theoretically it would not matter how tight you press the wedge.
The muzzle side of wedge will push assembly one way, and the cylinder side an equal amount the other way, balancing out.

Now if the wedge does not have an equal taper, or the holes are not square or in perfect alignment, then yes, the wedge could / would cause the gap to change. It will get tighter at the top because the frame will give at the top somewhat because of no rigid topstrap,

Since Colt does not have a topstrap we have a weak point that can give if excess pressure is applied, if the above alignments are not perfect, and they rarely are,
In both my old walker (about 3 yrs) and the new one.
finger pressure alone I can engage the wedge until the spring on the toe end just pops up to lock.
The cylinder spins freely,and I can NOT slip a .002 inch feeler gauge between cylinder face and the forcing cone, even pulling back on the cylinder.
however, on both I did need to do a little dressing up of the hole and wedge to get this.
Before I dressed the holes and wedge, I could not press hard enough with fingers to lock the spring. I used a tapping hammer. And when it locked, I could not spin the cylinder.
Now moderate finger pressure can lock and unlock the wedge.
But the arbor being too short in and of itself doesnot matter. If the wedge and wedge holes are equally shaped. Matter of fact the arbor should not bottom out tight in the arbor hole.
That could cause the wedge holes to be out of alignment in reverse. They need 2 to 4 thousandths float.
I base this on being a machine works tech for 20 some years, where I had to align and assemble various rotating assemblies in different production plants. If mating holes weren't in perfect alinment along a shaft length, and they rarely were, then you needed to have some end play to make the alignment.
 
I just got my new gun. I was getting it disassembled tonight and realized I don't have a wrench that fits the nipples on this revolver. Is there anything that will work to remove the nipples until I can get a proper wrench ordered?

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk 2
 
If you set your gun up so that the arbor is floating free and the only support is the wedge, then the life of the wedge will be severely limited. The wedge is designed to hold the arbor and the barrel in contact to provide a solid connection throughout. If the arbor bottoms out at the same time as the lower portion of the barrel contacts the frame then your gun is as solid as it can be made to be.
 
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