Uberti 1851 London

Well, the biggest difference is the surface contact. A 1/4" set screw has less area to contact the barrel assy compared to the circumference of the chamfered end of the arbor. Kinda like the difference between 18 gage wire and 10 gage wire. (Lamp cord vs jumper cables).

Pluse, if I use the set screw for the arbor length correction, it does away with the adjustable forward wedge bearing. I like having options.

(Good move using the shims! It looks better than junk glued to the end of the arbor!! Lol)

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
Pluse, if I use the set screw for the arbor length correction, it does away with the adjustable forward wedge bearing. I like having options.
Click to expand...

Just my dinky little opinion and not trying to start anything but I don't see that as a needed thing.
 
Oh Hawg!! I know you're not starting something!! Lol!

I found early on that making the arbor correction with shims in the arbor hole was a much neater way to do it (my opinion of course!) Then, when "fine tuning" of the barrel/cyl clearance was done (shim stack .003"-.005" too thick), I will dress the end of the arbor to arrive at .0025" (+ or - .0005"). This opens the wedge keyway enough (in some cases) to allow the wedge to be more than half its length through. On some used revolvers, the wedge would be too narrow and a new one wouldn't be a whole lot better. ( I am not in the wedge replacement or wedge making business! Lol). So, the adjustable front bearing was born which removes the need to ever replace the wedge. Not only that, as mentioned already, the user can decide what position the wedge placement suites him or her best. Again, options rule.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
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