Uberti 1851 Colt Navy Conversion....Parts Needed?

My Thoughts

Dark...a good question and it is not a criticism at all!

I really am enjoying getting more into black powder as the fun for me is the "technical" end of it. Understanding how all the components go together, determining the correct arbor length, learning cylinder/bolt timing, etc. have been a good and fun experience. Also, I have reloaded many different calibers/types of smokeless cartridges for over 36 years now and getting into black powder loading is a totally new area for me.

Cast bullets, "best" lube to use, sizing, etc. are all part of this education and a lot of fun as I get more into black powder. I guess you could say what I enjoy is the "tinkering" part of this sport.

So, in this case, learning about cartridge conversion pistols is a natural lead-in to reloading black powder cartridges...and at my local range there are very, very few people who are into black powder. Yes, I could clearly achieve a lot of this (and cheaper, too) by just buying an 1851 Navy which comes from the factory already converted...but that takes all the fun out of it for me.

Over the years this tinkering has allowed me to learn parkerizing, powder painting, rust bluing, motorcycle restoration, woodwork, etc.

Finally, I guess this all started because of Jimmy Carter! I soldiered in the Army for 30 years and my first unit was in Germany with the 3rd Infantry Division. Back in the early 1980's our units did not have sufficient funding to obtain maintenance parts but Army regs said our self-propelled M109 howitzers and M113 APC's were required to have their monthly, quarterly and annual services. Well, what to do when the regs demand services be conducted but no funds are available to actually buy the parts through the maintenance system? You pass the hat among the junior officers and go out onto the local economy with a lot of Deutschmarks to buy oil, filters, gaskets, and a lot of other items. I found a Mannesmann tractor air filter could easily be modified to fit a M113....diesel engine oil goes into a M109 howitzer, metric gasket material could be cut to replicate Army gaskets, etc.

Likewise, each year all the Commanders at Bn, Bde and Div had their annual "Commander's Trophy" shooting competition with 1911 pistols. These pistols were totally worn out and rattled like rocks in a tin can if you shook them. My Bn Cdr was determined to win in the summer of 1980 and noticed that I was pretty good at tinkering. He told me to build him a winning pistol or else!

I had the armorers from all five batteries bring me every 1911 in the Bn and for a very long weekend sat with them all in pieces and hand fitted every possible combination of parts. By late Sunday evening I had one pistol cobbled together which was really tight. A slight peening of the frame/slide channel and then moderate hand fitting with Clover fine grinding paste got it done.

The Bn Cdr won the Trophy that summer and also in the summer of 1981, too. The new Bn Cdr then won in the summer of 1982...and I had fitted the pistols for all three years.

So....long answer to a very good/short question!

Head Tomcat

PS: Also, I have fired darn near everything in our military inventory...from 8" and 155mm howitzers...to 152mm main guns on the old M60A2 tank...TOW missiles, 4.2"/81mm mortars, every smallarm from M2 .50cal down to 9mm and .45ACP M3 greasegun...and even called in an AC130 airstrike south of Baghdad in March 2003. Of all these, learning black powder has brought back my smile again..ha ha ha!
 
Head Tomcat, you have a short arbor (it's Uberti, it just is). Just drop a very small flat washer down the arbor hole and assemble the revolver (there's your proof, the "swing the barrel down to meet the frame" doesn't mean a thing (not any more)) hmmmmm. The arbor IS the head space "adjustment". Drive the wedge in (the " re-assembly on Colts disassembly instructions) and you'll find the cylinder will be locked up. Spacing of the arbor will accomplish an "end shake" (barrel/cylinder clearance). A bbl/cyl clearance as small as .002" - .003" seems to be perfect and the "self cleaning" aspect of the open top (kissing the barrel each time the action is cycled) is a nice (even if accidental) feature!! With a conversion set-up a .0015" is an acceptable measure. You can "adjust" (face) the C&B cyl to accommodate if/as needed.

Mike
 
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Tomcat:
that takes all the fun out of it for me.
The fun factor......i suspected as much. That is all the reason you need. Enjoy the process and the result.
Interestingly, the first BP cartridges that I loaded were .38 Specials. I could not get them to shoot accurately......until i put a Walter’s Wad between the bullet and the BP charge. Then they worked.
Pete
 
Sigh....It Was Short - 45 Dragoon Was Correct

Guys (and especially 45 Dragoon),

I got back home from visiting my family and came out to the shop this morning to more carefully look over the Uberti Colt Navy London I recently picked up from Taylor's...specifically the arbor length.

Turns out it is short...and here is how I found out.

I took a 27/64" drill bit and ran the chuck side (no flutes) down into the barrel arbor channel to make sure it would slide in. It did with minimal clearance...so I then reversed it and slowly by hand fed in the fluted side with Do Drill coating the cutting edges. I felt a few burrs on the way in around the wedge slot and after a few seconds it bottomed out.

I then carefully removed the drill bit and cleaned out the entire arbor channel, and could see 2-3 small burrs had been removed. The hole had not been lengthened any, just the burrs removed.

Then I slid the barrel back on at 90 degrees to the frame until it bottomed out in the arbor channel - and rotated the barrel back into position. It hit the frame and overlapped it by about .015-.020". This is about the thickness of two business cards.

So, 45 Dragoon was correct...it is an Uberti and the arbor is short. Time to take care of this!

Head Tomcat (who learned something)
 
Hey Tomcat!! Fortunately it's an easy enough fix. I like to leave the arbor alone and put a stainles spacer in the arbor hole to fill up the space and give the arbor a nice big surface to but up against.

Mike
 
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