Trouble resizing 30-06

Lee

Thanks for that correction about Lee case sizing lube.
Mostly i use the Imperial Die Wax. IIRC, Redding Die wax is the same product.

Pete
 
Spray on lube sometimes looses it's lubeability - Had 5 stuck cases in one reloading cession. Changed to Redding and Imperial wax and never looked back.
 
Tried various lubes - stuck cases once in a while. Read about the paste mink oil and swiched to that. Over 2000 rounds 223,30-06, 270, 6 Creed, 204 Ruger, 6.5 Grendel and some on the fingers with a swish into a bowl of pistol cases. No more stuck cases. Wipe excess off with a paper towel before storing. First can of mink oil is still about 75% so it lasts a long time.
 
I've reloaded 30-06 for more than 50 years and it is harder to resize than some other calibers, but over the years a friend shared a tip and recommended that I anneal the cartridges in the oven for about 10 to 20 minutes to soften the brass a little I use between 140º to 160º. But since this is only used on one rifle I don't do a full sizing just neck. What ever lube you use wipe the cartridge afterwards and you should be find. Could that you are using too much lube. Also use a Q-tip with some alcohol and clean the inside of the dies. If there are any deformities inside the die the cotton will be snagged and this could be the reason you case is getting stuck.
 
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I started loading the 30-06 in 1964. I bought my first press (RCBS Jr) in 1967. Since that time, I started using RCBS case lube with the foam pad. I can honestly say that I have never had a stuck case in a sizing die. I use it on rifle calibers from 22 Hornet up to 460 Wby. Handgun calibers from 380 ACP up to 500 S&W.

I have never had a stuck case.
 
I've reloaded 30-06 for more than 50 years and it is very hard to resize, but over the years a friend shared a tip and recommended that I anneal the cartridges in the oven for about 10 to 20 minutes to soften the brass a little I use between 140º to 160º. But since this is only used on one rifle I don't do a full sizing just neck. What ever lube you use wipe the cartridge afterwards and you should be find. Could that you are using too much lube. Also use a Q-tip with some alcohol and clean the inside of the dies. If there are any deformities inside the die the cotton will be snagged and this could be the reason you case is getting stuck.
I will give that a try. Right now all i have is once fired from my friend, but once i get it fire formed in my rifle I'm hoping to only neck size. will clean and check my die as well. i had to order a new pin, so i can do that when i replace it.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ms6852 View Post
I've reloaded 30-06 for more than 50 years and it is very hard to resize, but over the years a friend shared a tip and recommended that I anneal the cartridges in the oven for about 10 to 20 minutes to soften the brass a little I use between 140º to 160º. But since this is only used on one rifle I don't do a full sizing just neck. What ever lube you use wipe the cartridge afterwards and you should be find. Could that you are using too much lube. Also use a Q-tip with some alcohol and clean the inside of the dies. If there are any deformities inside the die the cotton will be snagged and this could be the reason you case is getting stuck.

I will give that a try. Right now all i have is once fired from my friend, but once i get it fire formed in my rifle I'm hoping to only neck size. will clean and check my die as well. i had to order a new pin, so i can do that when i replace it.

That is NOT how you anneal brass. Only the case neck is annealed, not the whole case. By annealing the whole case you are softening the case in the part of the case that has to remain hard to contain the high pressure during firing. Please do not do this.

Don
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ms6852 View Post
I've reloaded 30-06 for more than 50 years and it is very hard to resize, but over the years a friend shared a tip and recommended that I anneal the cartridges in the oven for about 10 to 20 minutes to soften the brass a little I use between 140º to 160º. But since this is only used on one rifle I don't do a full sizing just neck. What ever lube you use wipe the cartridge afterwards and you should be find. Could that you are using too much lube. Also use a Q-tip with some alcohol and clean the inside of the dies. If there are any deformities inside the die the cotton will be snagged and this could be the reason you case is getting stuck.



That is NOT how you anneal brass. Only the case neck is annealed, not the whole case. By annealing the whole case you are softening the case in the part of the case that has to remain hard to contain the high pressure during firing. Please do not do this.

Don
I agree with your statement. But for full sizing this is how I have done it and it is not softening it that much. As long as you are not maxing out loads I have found this to work for me. I understand your concerns but as long as you have a tight chamber I have not had issue with this method or cases rupturing from soft brass. Afterwards any annealing I do is to the neck only as it becomes hard after shooting it several times.
 
ms6852,

While this may have worked for you, this is not a procedure to recommend to someone else. Someone has the oven a bit too high and.... Kaboom!

Don
 
Another vote for both Imperial Sizing Wax and Hornady Unique Sizing Wax. Both work equally well for me and are as close to fool-proof as you can get.

A thin coat applied with the fingers, a container of each of these sizing lubes will last for many years...with great results...

Bayou
 
ms6852,

While this may have worked for you, this is not a procedure to recommend to someone else. Someone has the oven a bit too high and.... Kaboom!

Don
Totally agree and was not recommending anything, simply stating what I did, but come to thing of it in my old age I guess I forgot people would take it as a recommendation.
 
Totally agree and was not recommending anything, simply stating what I did, but come to thing of it in my old age I guess I forgot people would take it as a recommendation.
i fully understand. however i don't believe this is actual annealing, annealing starts around 500F. i suspect this just temporarily softens the metal enough to make it slightly more pliable while resizing. from what i have been reading at 600f it would take brass approximately 1hr to anneal.
 
On the topic of "semi-annealing" brass at low oven temps:

I understand someone can set up a circumstance that seems to work. OK.

But consider on an 80 deg F day,a black road can get too hot to stand on barefoot.

While your oven is heating the air temp to 140 to 150 deg, the radiant heat from the heating elements may heat your brass considerably hotter.
 
There are many people that wet tumble as well and than dry their brass in an oven or toaster oven so I don't see an issue with this or many people would not dry their brass in this manner.
 
There are many people that wet tumble as well and than dry their brass in an oven or toaster oven so I don't see an issue with this or many people would not dry their brass in this manner.

You bring up a good point. However, is there such a thing as "semi-annealing"? If I heat some lead up to 310 degrees instead of 621 degrees, is it semi-melted? Inquiring minds want to know.;)

Don
 
I will give that a try. Right now all i have is once fired from my friend, but once i get it fire formed in my rifle I'm hoping to only neck size. will clean and check my die as well. i had to order a new pin, so i can do that when i replace it.
When the 30-06 was at it's best in competition, full length sizing fired cases produced best accuracy. Case necks are well centered on the case shoulder so the bullets are better centered in the bore when fired.

Nothing has changed today.
 
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You bring up a good point. However, is there such a thing as "semi-annealing"? If I heat some lead up to 310 degrees instead of 621 degrees, is it semi-melted? Inquiring minds want to know.;)

Don
True, but I never get my temperature above 160º, which is confirmed by a oven thermometer.
 
I'm the one who used the term "semi-anneal."
I wish you hyper critics would find something better to do.

No,150 deg f does not begin to anneal anything,but MS 6852 says it made his brass size easier. So I wrote "semi-anneal"

There is a minimum temp to make any change to the brass. Its higher than 160 deg f. My point was no matter what the air temp in the oven is,radiant heat from the heating elements can get the brass hotter than the air temp.

That,I am sure of.

But what temps " I don't know. I was not there..
 
I think what makes a difference when full sizing is the type of press one has and the height of your work bench as this can add or take leverage. I have two work stations that I use for processing many large amounts of range brass. I have a very inexpensive Lee press that I use to de cap and full size 5.56 brass for my AR's and because of the height it can be harder than where I have my Forster set up inside the house. But using the Forster press makes every thing seem smoother vs the Lee press. Now I am not OCD about and don't get carried away about chasing accuracy or the lands or velocity and since my 30-06 brass goes to one rifle only and it is factory brass that I bought initially I don't see the need to full size the brass. I've been using the same rifle for more that 55 years and it still puts venison and elk on the table.

Wish I had not posted about the tip I got from a friend 1/2 a century ago as I did not expect to get so much controversy from this. But the deed is done and whether one realizes or not 30-06 cartridge is a large and hefty cartridge that does require a little more elbow grease than the .223 or 5.56. Wait till you do a .50 BMG case you will be in for a surprise.
 
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