Trigger reset woes for first time revolver owner

. That would be disappointing in its own right but understandable.
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Disappointing?

Learn to run the gun the way it's supposed to be run.


---edit to add---

Watched the vid. Yeah, that doesn't seem right. Call S&W.
 
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Tough crowd.

Again, the trigger should fully reset no matter how slowly you return the trigger. The OPs trigger doesn't. Watch the vid. I'll go out on a limb and predict a number of people who've chimed in with a "learn to shoot it right" nugget would likely short stroke this revolver at some point.

And once again, the innards may need a good cleaning & lubing, the rebound spring may not be strong enough for the mainspring, or the DA sear may be a wee bit long.

I DO have issues with the OPs grip and trigger pull, but that's another thread
 
ok. on mrborland suggestion I have opened a ticket with SW. I will update when they come back to me with an answer.
 
I'm with McBorland.
The revolver should reset no matter how slowly the trigger is (fully) released.
(Just went a tried/verified it on both a Model 19 and a 29)
 
pgb205 said:
on mrborland suggestion I have opened a ticket with SW
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eh…just a technicality, but I never suggested sending it to S&W. :rolleyes:

For the handy one, cleaning and lubing, and addressing any rebound spring issue is a 5 minute job. If one can't do this themselves, a local (but competent) gunsmith can do it. Heck, if you lived close to me, I'd be happy to do it.

You can certainly send the gun to S&W, of course, and if it's shipped on their dime, you might as well send it in. But as Driftwood warned, they might tell you there's nothing wrong with your gun, especially if you simply say "it doesn't return". Be sure to explain that it's sluggish on the (and even fails to) return when the trigger's slowly let out.

And if there's anything else that S&W ought to take a look at, now's a good time to have them look into it.
 
I have to let go of the trigger all the ways back before I can fire again in DA.
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If I keep moving trigger forward eventually I hear third click, this one is the softest. At this point if I pull back hammer fully rises and the shot goes off.
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If I keep moving trigger forward eventually I hear third click, this one is the softest. At this point if I pull back hammer fully rises and the shot goes off.
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Ok, I give up. See what S&W says. I don't think there is anything wrong with your revolver.
 
@driftwood johnson. Sorry to be a pain about this. Definitely sounds like you know your business with guns. Just seems to be a difference of opinion between you and MrBorland as far as I can understand. I do get your point about trigger having to return ALL the way forward for the next shot to take place. However, if you check my video you can see that I do have an instance of trigger being returned all the way forward (and as a matter of fact my finger is OFF the trigger) but then I get clank again.
 
Geez. The video PROVES that all the OP is doing is short-stroking. By his own admission, he is new to revolvers. So, perhaps he doesn't fully understand that it is what he is doing. But it IS.

Partially pulling the trigger and playing with different techniques while doing so, which is INCORRECT operation... then questioning whether the gun is working right....is merely obscuring the facts. If you do not operate the trigger correctly, then of course the gun won't function correctly. Fully pull the trigger EVERY TIME.... then fully release the trigger EVERY TIME. Period.

By the way, if you continue to screw with the trigger operation as you have done, you will eventually damage the DA sear. Then , the gun really won't function properly. That won't be anyone's fault but yours.


Case closed.
 
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pgb205 said:
Just seems to be a difference of opinion between you and MrBorland as far as I can understand
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Agreed. You've been getting a lot of advice about technique (which I agree with), but from what I see, you've also got a sluggish reset that ought to be addressed. Others disagree, haven't noticed (or simply ignored) the sluggish return, and/or don't know enough to know that it should never fail to return. I'm fussy about my revolvers running correctly, and it reminds me of the mechanic's reply:

Customer: "My car stalls when it idles".

Mechanic: "So, don't let it idle. Learn to drive, eh?"



At any rate, you've likely got all the info you need at this point. Good luck, and let us know how it gets resolved.
 
I got my 357 LCR because the original owner thought something was mechanically wrong when he was short stroking the trigger.
The dealer was happy to up trade the owner; buyer was happy; and I got a barely shot revolver.
 
Maybe I am seeing it wrong, but it looks to me that around the 20 second mark of the video, he is starting with his finger completely off the trigger and getting the same result (an incomplete double action cycle of the hammer) as when he short strokes it.
 
I just watched it again. At the 20 second mark he does not completely remove his finger from the trigger, he still has contact with it. More importantly, he is restricting the free movement of the trigger by releasing the trigger so slowly. If there is a burr or some other reason the trigger is not resetting, the problem would go away if he would allow the trigger to snap back briskly as it supposed to.
 
at around 20 seconds I remove and put my finger on the trigger twice, just to emphasize that my trigger is definitely off the trigger at some point.
 
Yeah, but if you wouldn't restrict the trigger return like that, I'll bet everything would be fine. Allow it to snap back like it is supposed to.

Granted, there might be a burr someplace that is causing a problem when the trigger is released slowly. So if you send it to S&W they can answer that question. But if you get used to allowing the trigger to snap back the way it is supposed to, I'll bet you a donut your problem will go away.
 
Driftwood Johnson said:
But if you get used to allowing the trigger to snap back the way it is supposed to, I'll bet you a donut your problem will go away.
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Maybe. Maybe not. As I mentioned, most revolver shooters are unaware they ride the trigger on the return - and that likely includes posters here who've lectured us on "proper form". I don't disagree with "proper form", but simply have to note that most don't likely adhere to it as strictly as they believe.

Also, a sluggish return means the return is on the edge of reliability. There's no margin for error, and additional crud or dryness can cause issues even if the trigger's returned quickly.

Why's it matter? First, as mentioned, a return that's on the edge of reliability is exactly that. There's no room for dirt, or lube or technique issues.

Also, when things speed up, trigger riders are likely to short-stroke the DA trigger if the return's sluggish for any reason. A lot of competitive revolver shooters want that uber-light DA, but immediately find themselves short-stroking the trigger. That's a real killer in competition. I admit to this myself, and one reason I don't go uber-light on my match revolvers.

And check out the great Jerry Miculek short-stroking a Python (@ 3:18). JM uses a stronger-than-stock rebound spring, and it's been my strong suspicion he rides the trigger on the return. As a result, he immediately locks up a stock Python.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cbVl3cDMTY



If this is a range gun, and all you'll ever do is shoot nice and slowly at a paper target, you don't likely have to do anything, other than what's been advised - get off the trigger fully and let the trigger reset quickly. But if speed and/or no-excuses reliability is important to you, I'd look into that sluggish reset.
 
And check out the great Jerry Miculek short-stroking a Python (@ 3:18). JM uses a stronger-than-stock rebound spring, and it's been my strong suspicion he rides the trigger on the return. As a result, he immediately locks up a stock Python.
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I recall watching video where the description Jerry M gave leads me to believe that perhaps you are correct. I can't find it now though. Interesting.

Thinking about it, I do it to an extent. As you said, most of us do.

Hmmm, something to go work on. Thank you Mr. B!
 
Just got my revolver back from SAW and wanted to update everyone

On the attached work order gunsmith diagnosed the issue as

Trigger Creep, Fails to return

and Performed Service as:
Replace Sear/Replace Sear Spring.

I have attempted dry firing the revolver several time and so far
looks like the trigger resets as expected.
 
1. Trigger all the way back, bang.

2. Trigger partially forward, short stroke and "jam."

3. Trigger halfway, and this can be repeated, shooter
can cycle cylinder without firing, hammer block now
in place but cylinder stop has dropped.

4. Trigger all the way forward, reset and ready to fire.

OP should learn to move his finger slightly off trigger or
just have finger lightly on it so trigger snaps forward
briskly after firing.

The rebound spring will supply the snap forward on the trigger
and the hammer spring with trigger all the way back will
slam the hammer.

I think OP has played with autos. I see a lot of guys
always holding auto trigger and working the slide, then seeing
just how little the reset is. And auto guys love short, short
and quick resets.

Above post before I saw OP got his revolver back.
 
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