Tower flintlock pistol. A few noobie questions.

Track of the Wolf sells a variety of round balls that will fit.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categ...atID=2&subID=25&styleID=58&PageSize=25&Page=3

Smothbores are typically loaded with balls that are about .020 smaller than the bore size along with a thicker patch like .018 - .020. When the patch is wrapped around both sides of the ball it adds about .036 - .040 to it's diameter. This smaller diameter ball allows extra room for the thick patch to be compressed as the bore gets fouled with powder residue and becomes narrower.
 
There were boatloads of cheap 'Tower' pistol not very well done replicas imported to the U.S. in the 1970-80s.
However, from your pics, yours could be an original. Hard to tell, needs expert examination.
 
Perhaps, but you guys had a good conversation going about the exact pistol. I appreciate the response. Should I score a few lines on the frizzen with a dremel before heat treating it or leave it as is (smooth)?
 
Hawg Haggen said:
Original Tower flintlocks were .69 caliber smooth bore. The soft frizzens not sparking was a problem with the Japanese imports. To make it spark it will have to be hardened, skateboard tape will not help. A .680 ball with a .010 or .015 patch. 40 grains should be a good load. You can use 2F or 3F but the pan charge needs to be 4F and don't cover the touch hole with it. The Tower doesn't mean anything on a repro. Originals were made in the London Tower armory. No they weren't nickel plated and no Colt didn't make parts for them
Click to expand...

Actually, you don't HAVE to use 4F to prime the pan. I have primed flintlocks with 3F and I could barely tell the difference.
Historically, soldiers used the same powder used for the main charge to prime the pan. 2F for the main charge and the pan.

Of course, 4F is preferred if you happen to have some and you don't have any 5F handy.
 
Edward429451 said:
The pan is to be primed first? Is that correct?
Click to expand...

Historically, the soldiers armed with flintlock muskets were drilled to tear open the paper cartridge that held a premeasured charge of 2f along with the round ball using their teeth.
First a small amount of the 2F was put in the pan, the frizzen closed, and then the rest of the charge was poured down the barrel then the ball was rammed down along with the rest of the paper cartridge which acted as an overshot wad to keep the ball from rolling out of the barrel.

Don't do it that way, it's too dangerous, you are not desperately fighting off Redcoats or Indians.
I don't even think the historical re-enactors take historical accuracy to this point.
Cannon crews also take liberties from strict historical accuracy in the interest of safety.
Priming first is also a good way to get kicked off of most shooting ranges today.

If reenactors want to be really authentic, they would have to find a way to turn themselves into 18 year old boys again.
 
What To Do

First of all, IF your pistol is made in Europe anytime in the past 500 or so years it will have PROOF MARKS somewhere on the barrel.

Therefore- If you don't see any Proof Marks on the top of the barrel, remove it from the stock and look for proof marks on the underside of the barrel.

Proof Marks changed from time to time over the centuries. So, look up the Proof Marks on the internet and from there you can determine within 30 or 50 years when the gun was made and where it was made (at least the country.)

My guess is that the gun was made within the past 60 years-cobbled together from parts, probably in Belgium and sold in the U.S. via magazine ad in the 1950's or 1960's.

Smooth bore flintlock pistols were made in both .72 and .69 caliber in the past.

Whatever you do, a decent gunsmith that is knowledgeable about muzzleloaders needs to look at the gun to determine IF it is safe to shoot.

GOOD LUCK
 
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