To much tru oil?

Gunman45.

Inactive
I decided to jump in to finishing with tru oil without even reading up on how to apply it, like an idiot, and i put on 4 thick coats in a single day. Other people however have said you should apply 1 thin coat every 12-24 hours. Im not sure if i need to restart though because it looks fine to me and most of its dry already after a day with the exeption of a little stickyness. So what do you guys think?
 
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Give it a few days and steel wool it. If it's not good just re do it. You can use acetone or other solvents to clean it off and repeat the process. You can get a nice, bright finish with it.
 
I would let it dry for a few days and then see how it looks. Like was said you can steel wool it down. I am kinda surprised you did not get runs in it. I like using truoil. but it takes some time. I use very little and do 1 application a day until I like what I see. Last stock took me better than a month. Mostly due to filling in the grain. Here is a pic of the stock it is a 1895 Remlin guidegun in 45-70. Never would have though that stock would look that nice before I started. Looks even better in person pics don't do justice.

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Tru Oil is an oil + varnish + thinner. Just let the wood sit for up to a week and the finish will slowly polymerize and harden because it is exposed to oxygen.

All you've done is put so much finish on that the first layers are still not fully polymerized because they are being shielded slightly from the oxygen by the outer layers of finish.

You'll be able to tell how it's doing after 2-3 days by testing it. If you can find a place on the stock that is not readily visible, just take your thumb nail and push gently on the finish. If the finish is hard, there will be no indent from your nail. If it is still soft underneath, you'll be able to dent the finish slightly with your nail.

Generally, an oil / varnish finish is thinned before application. This helps the first coats penetrate the wood very slightly, but it has another effect on the finish. The thinner evaporates rapidly causing volatile compounds in the finish to be carried out of the finish and helps the finish mix with oxygen as part of the evaporation process. This promotes rapid polymerization of the finish and hardening.

You've stopped the rapid polymerization by not thinning the finish and putting many coats on top of each other. But, the finish will polymerize and harden, it's just going to take longer.

Be patient, and let the finish sit and it will harden. Don't try to hurry the process. The best thing you can do is simply set the stock aside and forget about it for a week.
 
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It's interesting, too, that the stuff makes such a wonderful finish, if that's what you are looking for. I have used it on all sorts of objects. I still wonder, though, how durable it will be.
 
I have used it.Its a good product.Yup,you might have done it different.But,you are where you are.
I would not get in a hurry.If its even a little soft,you will make a mess.You do not want steel wool fuzz dragging into the finish,or the stuff smearing like a Slo-Poke taffy bar.
If a week is good,a month might be better.
 
I use it regularly, and I let my stocks dry 48 hours between Light coats. I'd probably let that stock hand for a week or two just to make sure, the first session with steel wool will tell you if it cured enough, let it hang..
 
Thanks for the responses guys!i was worried that it would have to be took off and replied, but its only a little bit sticky now and i think it will be fine in a few days, and i am really surprised it didint make a runny mess after i did research on how to actually apply the stuff. atleast the same mistake wont be made on the next gun though XD. oh and like a dumb ass i droped it when i was showing my cousin and put a small scratch in it...fail.
 
You could also try wet sanding using 2000 and 4000 grit paper which you will find at any auto store. I've done it on furniture and it looks great.
 
droped it when i was showing my cousin and put a small scratch in it...fail.

Easy to fix. You're going to either sand or steel wool the entire stock to finish it anyway. Take some of the Tru Oil and thin it about 5% - you actually want it kind of thick for touching up.

In this instance, I would use VM&P Naptha as the thinner as you don't want to the finish to flow out too much. The naptha evaporates faster than mineral spirits and will allow you to build-up the finish faster.

You can use a small artist's brush or, if you don't have that, take a toothpick and mash the end to make a brush-like end on the toothpick. Carefully fill the scratch and let it dry.

You'll have to repeat the process until the finish is built up past the surrounding surface.

An alternate approach is to sand the entire scratch about 1/2-inch wide back to the wood, and then apply a series of finish coats only to the sanded area to build it up level with the surrounding finish. If you use this approach, thin the oil 10% with naptha and brush it on using a small, quality trim brush. Apply the finish and then "tip" it off (use the brush in one direction with only the tips of the bristles) to break any bubbles that may be in the finish. Let it sit for 24 hours and then wet sand lightly with 400 or 600 grit. Repeat the process until you have the area filled and blended.

Always put a little dish washing liquid in the water (1-2 drops in 1 quart is plenty) to use for sanding. After sanded the area dries, wipe down the entire stock with a clean damp cloth. Then apply the next coat of finish.

You have to wipe the entire stock as you have to get all of the sanding dust and other dust off of the stock before the next coat so you don't drag anything into the new finish.

Either way to repair the crack works, but without seeing the scratch and looking at it carefully it's not possible to tell you the best way to do it via the Internet.

When you have the scratch area built-up slightly above the surrounding surface, use some 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand the entire stock using the paper wet.

Once you have the stock sanded and the scratch blended, you'll have to figure out how you want to finish the stock. If you want it slightly glossy (satin) finish you could continue with wet/dry paper through 3200 grit. At that point you could buff it with a buffing compound and then wax with a wood paste wax.

Or, after you finish sanding with the 1200 grit, you could simply take #0000 steel wool and buff the entire stock to a matte finish and then wax with a wood paste wax.

If you wanted to add a little more depth to the finish, you could use colored Briwax in either Tudor Brown or Dark Brown. The addition of the colored wax can be used to accent areas on the stock and will give the finish a more 3D appearance.
 
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hmm, turns out the stock and forgrip both have huge run marks and hazy spots on them after close inspection, so i believe i have 100% screwed this up. Im hoping for a fairly glossy finish, so do you guys think i could redo this with about a quarter of the bottle left? (god i used way to much XD) this time i plan on doing it the right way and also do i need to just wipe the tru oil away with citristrip or is there any further steps i need to remove it? and once again thank you guys for helping me out on this, mabye with the help of you guys i can pull off not ruining a gift from my grandfather lol.
 
Ouch...
As was said, I'm surprised you could get 4 coats-thick ones at that- on in one day. Two, is usually about it, depending on temp and humidity.

When you re-apply, put on a thin latex glove and use just your index and middle fingertips to lay it on. Keep a "wet edge"- it tacks up fairly quickly (again, dependent on environment). Bright side-lighting really helps in getting even coverage and avoiding holidays, and laying it on too heavily.
Wipe each coat on evenly- not too thin, because you'll end up with holidays- and not too thick because it will run as you found out.

Two coats per day max- I usually do one in the morning, and the second at night. Don't push it more than that, one per day is fine. 4 coats isn't "too much", as long as the time between coats is adhered to.

You need another bottle. If you used 3/4 and only have 1/4 left (I'm assuming you have the small bottle)you may not have enough, even allowing that you put it on too heavily. The risk is, you can't stop in the middle of a coat- you'll ruin it again and be right back where you are now. Make sure you have enough, before you start.


I can't stress the lighting issue too much- as you just found out- because you didn't notice it earlier- a fault in an early coat in particular that's not seen just gets gone over with additional coats. Much time and effort later, when the job is "complete", it's "Oh crap...". Apply it with bright side lighting available- meaning, the light shining down the side of the stock, as you look at it from the opposite side. "Straight-on" lighting from above, will not highlight defects and make them visible.

Acetone or MEK should take it off. You're going to need to re-sand down to at least 220 grit after removing the old finish and then wipe with a tack cloth before starting.
 
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Slow and easy, wins this race !!!

I have had many successful outcomes, using Tru-Oil and yes, at first a couple of super flops. When I start a project, I allow 24-hrs. of curing time to allow the solvents/thinner to evaporate. Depending on what the wood is communicating, I apply 7-11 coats. Then I let is sit for between 3 to 6-months and finish it off by making it semi-glass. I can use the firearm as I wish during those months. ...... ;)

If this was my project and it's not, I would start over again or at least take it down to remove the runs. Looks like you have a Birch wood stock so yes, you might just be able to make it on a half bottle. .... :confused:

Good luck and;
Be Safe !!!
 
Tru Oil is thinned with mineral spirits, you can try wiping the excess off with a rag wet, but not dripping, with mineral spirits.
"...have 100% screwed this up..." Probably not as horrible as you think.
 
There are grades of Scotchbrite that have no abrasive grit,they are just fiber.
I used some pieces cut from a red floor buffer pad,such as a custodian might use.
With it,I used turpentine.

Using this,I was able to strip off the accumulation of finish on an old Krag stock.

The Scotchbrite does not cut the wood,but it will scrub off softened finish.
TheScotchbrite won't clog up like sandpaper will.

It also does not shed strings and particles like steel wool does.

In any case,it won't hurt anything.Good luck!
 
well i striped it off and restarted the process and applied the first coat earlier today, its mostly dry except for one tacky spot that was to thick, should i just rub that spot down with the steel wool?
 
Keep going

should i just rub that spot down with the steel wool?
As long as you don't see any runs, you should be okay. Any following applications will blend in just fine and eventually you won't see a difference. ... :)

Be Safe !!!
 
I don't know how to tell you to fix a thick sticky spot.
I don't do it like putting on a coat of varnish.
I do it more like rubbing in a little linseed oil..Use just a little and rub it.Rub it into the wood,as far and thin and smooth as it will go.Into the wood,not ON the wood.
Then let it dry HARD.It has to be CUT by the steel wool,not gummed,smeared,and stuck to the steel wool.
Lightly wool it smooth.Wiped the dust off.
Then put just a few drops at a time on your hands and rub it in,rub it out thin.
Then let I dry hard,and wool it again.
You will develop a filled,sealed surface IN the wood.
Later,it can skin over to a gloss,if you want.by using less oil,rubbed thinner because the wood is filled and sealed.
 
The magic for Tru oil is Armor All

apply Tru oil in very thin coats a few drops on your fingers and rub it in hard using your fingers and the palm of your hand let stand a few minutes and spray a heavy coat of armor-all and then rub that in with your hands wipe off with a soft cloth and its dry right then repeat the process you can put several coats in a afternoon alternating true oil and armor oil (armor oil acts as a drying agent for the true oil) and the out come of the finish is very nice you can sand or steel wool between coats until you get the grain filled then build it up as thick and glossy as you please. Without the Armor -all it can take a long time to dry.
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