Tips and tricks thread . . .

std7mag
I reload 30 308 cases each week. I charge all the cases then seat. There have been times when my wife will say dinner is ready . I never liked the idea of leaving the charged cases sitting in the tray for even one hour. I'm going to give your way a try.
 
If using a single stage, get a case kicker. I made my own and its surprising how much it will speed things up on a SS.

I watched the video, and I keep up the same (or even faster) tempo on my single stage Lee press without the case kicker. I hold the next case with my thumb & forefinger, and just use my middle finger to knock the previous case out as the ram is coming down. Once ya get the hang of it, you can keep feeding the press about as fast as you can pump the handle. I have thought about making a chute, but my Lee press is shaped such that I can just use a box below it & catch 99.9% of the cases anyway.

I have read methods from several seasoned reloaders over the years, and it seems everybody has their own process. But the main thing is to build double checks into your process, to prevent bad stuff.

I have never been a fan of seating a bullet immediately after dumping the powder. I've had my scale move, the powder measure move, and one time there was even a spider web in the powder funnel that was catching some powder grains, so one case was under charged and the next was over charged! I wanna get a look at the powder and compare them before seating, so I don't have to pull bullets or scrap a whole batch, even if I'm weighing every one.

Firstly, because of the above, when I start out I stick a pipe cleaner or Q-tip everywhere to make sure there's no obstructions. I keep my brass in zip-lock bags so no bugs can make a nest inside (I once read an article by a guy who blew up a .38 revolver because of this.)

I prefer to charge the cases in batches, and put them into a block as they're charged. This is check #1- empty cases are in a separate container, so I never have charged & empty casings in the same loading block. I weigh every so many cases to make sure the meter is still on target, and always weigh the last in the batch to make sure nothing has moved- check #2. I put charged cases into the block in order, so if something does go wrong I can hopefully figure out when/how it happened- check #3. Then when they're all charged, I hold the block under a desk lamp and consciously look at every one- check #4. If I have been doing anything at all that even remotely causes misgivings (like using a new powder, for example), I take this a step further. I decide ahead of time that I'm gonna pull say, 5 cases out of every batch & weigh the charges. So I'm not just looking for anything unusual, but trying to find 5 specific cases where the powder level looks different from the rest- check #5.
 
A different way to lube case necks where needed/desired, get one of those carpenter pencils from HD/Lowes, and use it to lube the case neck. Just sharpen or remove enough of the wood covering to expose the lead (aka graphite), stick the pencil in the neck and spin it bit, a lubed neck
 
I have some problems with my right arm from a prior injury, and when doing batches of 500 or more on my Lee turret press it messes up my arm. So I shortened the handle up by just loosening the clamp and repositioning the handle. Now it doesn't bother my arm any more, but I do have to use both arms when sizing due to the smaller amount of leverage.
 
Probably a dumb ? but does shortening the handle on a press reduce, increase or does not change the amount of force/pressure being a applied? This is assuming all other things are equal or do not change, such as amount of pressure applied on the down stroke of the handle, etc.
 
Probably a dumb ? but does shortening the handle on a press reduce, increase or does not change the amount of force/pressure being a applied? This is assuming all other things are equal or do not change, such as amount of pressure applied on the down stroke of the handle, etc.
It would decrease the force applied by the ram per unit of force applied by you the operator. Basic physics using fulcrum and lever. The longer the handle the more leverage you get and are able to do the same end result with less input energy by the operator

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Buy a progressive press.

Get some good overhead lights. I have an unfinished basement and have a clamp light hitting the bench from each side.

Make a dummy round for each bullet you load. Use the dummy round to set the OAL when switching from bullet to bullet. I reload a dozen different 38 special bullets and can switch from a 158 RN to 180 WFN to 125 FP bullet very quickly. I have a reloading tray full of dummy rounds for various calibers.
 
Do you set your dummy rounds for the exact OAL you want/need or set them a little long and adjust the die every time???
 
I also keep dummy rounds , use a marker on the case to write settings. I back out the seating die and adjust down to the exact setting. Also keep a log on round count , settings , bullets, primers & powders and how they all perform. Makes life easier.
 
Do you set your dummy rounds for the exact OAL you want/need or set them a little long and adjust the die every time???

It depends. Using the dummy round is a guide to get you within half a turn of the seating stem final adjustment. I usually end up tweaking the die a smidgen to get the final setting.
 
Alternative Universal Deprimer

I use a 7MM Reminton Mag Sizing die to deprime 308, 7mm08, 40SW, 38 special, 357 mag, and 9mm before vibrating brass. I do not have a 7mm Mag rifle so I had no use for the dies, so I figure this is a good use for the sizing die. It only deprimes it does not alter the brass in any other way.
 
Interesting you all talking about dummy rounds . I make dummy rounds but only to be sure that specific set up will work in a particular firearm . I've never kept them for future reference . I have my load data books for that . I keep logs of everything I load and test .

This is my load data sheet I take with me to log all relevant info from bench to range . There is the same info on the back of each sheet for a total of 4 data logs per sheet .
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I use these targets at the range for testing which have 4 individual targets on them to correspond to the 4 data logs on my data sheets .

p3pBOf.jpg


When finished both the data sheet and the target go in a binder . Binders are either firearm specific , general hand gun , general rifle or AR data . Inside each binder there are dividers separating either caliber , firearm , bullet and powder . It just depends on the quality of the load and firearm used how it's separated in the binders . Match loads often are separated by all - caliber , firearm , bullet and powder . While general plinking loads just get separated by caliber and powder .

My point to all that is I don't need a dummy round . I look at my data and load to it . All my match quality loads/dies use micrometer seating dies so the micrometer setting is logged and I just dial it to the desired seating depth . The plinking stuff I just back off the seating stem then incrementally seat the bullet until I get to the correct seating depth . If you load enough and pay attention to your equipment . You get there pretty fast because you know what a 1/4 , 1/3 or 1/2 turn does .

If anyone wants a PDF of my load data sheet I'll be glad to post a link . I just need help doing so . I did it once in a thread a couple years ago and every time I've tried since It does not work . I get prompted that I've already up loaded that data . The problem is I don't know how to find it here or attach a link in any thread .
 
I understand your points, Metalgod, but I like dummy rounds loaded with bullets I like....specially when I use several for one caliber.

Yes, I keep a record, but inserting a dummy round into a mounted seater die with the seating depth loose is a lot faster way to set the OAL than trial and error with measurements.

Of course even that is slower than having a separate preset seater die for every bullet you load with.....but there is a few of us too cheap for that. ;)
 
I guess what ever system your comfortable with is good . Reference points , I keep both , a dummy round & log book , I use a O - Ring between the top of the press & the lock ring , just makes it easier to remove the dies but when reinstalling the die you may still have to reset 1 or 2 thousands , no big deal . I also have a mark on the ring and the press to set my seated die , I'm using the Redding competition seating die . Works for me .
 
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