Timing my Remington Navy

Those are good articles but you are right he did leave out some important things. He covered getting the arbor length correct but didn't cover correctly fitting the wedge. And he didn't mention how he got through the case hardening outside and inside the frame when he Rugarized the hand spring.
 
Maybe he was working on an older Pietta. I've heard that until relatively recently they were pretty soft. The hammer on my new one is hard as glass. That's why I was not able to drill the hole in it. Maybe using a small grinding bit in the Dremel to initially grind through the hardened surface would work.
 
Another trick is to spot anneal it. Not hard to do just clamp something like vise grips over the full cock notch to act as a heat sink. Polish the area you are going to drill and heat it with a pencill torch until it goes blue. The case is only .003 to .005 deep so that is all you have to anneal.
 
The color case hardening on Pietta, Uberti and even Ruger single actions is cosmetic only. It's not real.
 
I understand that, but the parts are definitely hardened. Hopefully they are case hardened, or they run the risk of fracturing at the hardness I am experiencing. A part does not have to be color cased to be case hardened.
 
Model P. That is why you put the vise grips over the full cock notch it acts as a heat sink. You only put the heat on the small spot where you intend to drill. Best bet though if you are concerned with that process is the carbide drills although spotting with a small dremel grinding stone would work also if you don't let it get away from you.

Hawg. Sorry bud you are wrong. The case hardening on Uberti and Pietta is done with cyanide so the colors are different than Colt but they are case hardened for sure.
 
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