tight holster

How tight is it?

I dont use to many leather holsters for carry anymore, but when I did, if it was overly snug, I just broke it in doing dry fire presentations until I was comfortable with it. Helps get the "creak" out of it too.

Might take a little effort and work, but its well worth the effort all around, and you wont end up with a holster thats to lose.
 
Arronhgraham knows what he is talking about. His method works and works well. I've a few more years than he messing around with leather and that's been my basic method. Al Stholman developed this but he used waxed bread wrappers around the gun because saran wrap probably hadn't even been thought of back when he wrote the book on all things concerned with leather working.
 
This thread proves that there are always a few differing ways to accomplish the same goal.

The one thing I want to reiterate is,,,
There is never a need to soak a holster.

Aarond

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There is never a need to soak a holster.

And you would be wrong. I make leather holsters. Any formed leather holster you buy has been wet molded after being soaked in water between about 120-140 degrees. This temperature range, along with being soaked in water, relaxes the collagen bonds and allows them to be re-aligned in a new shape. The leather will retain this shape. Much hotter and the collagen bonds are destroyed. Any cooler and the holster will not hold its shape. Mind you this requires water and temperature, merely warming a holster up will not do it.

And it depends on your definition of “soak” I suppose. You don’t need to soak a holster for hours to reshape it. You do need to soak it in appropriately warm water long enough for the holster to be wet through and through and to warm up enough so collagen bonds to relax, which I find 5 minutes or so about ideal.

Mind you, if you are soaking an already finished holster to reshape it it will never be quite the same. It’s already been dyed and sealed, and you will have some of that dye bleed in places and the sealant will never “seal” as it originally would again. Some dies are added pre-molding in holster production, some post. Some holster makers use the dye solutions as the hot water baths needed to relax collagen bonds. Almost always, the sealant has been applied post wet molding.


OP if I were you, I would wrap the pistol in several layers of Saran Wrap and holster. Work in and out. Work up to wrapping the pistol in a thread bare old cotton t-shirt and holstering if possible. This SHOULD do the trick and will be the least invasive method for your holsters finish. If this doesn’t work, and you aren’t overly concerned about the finish/sealant, you can soak the holster for a couple 3 minutes in the hot tap water. Wrap your pistol in Saran Wrap, then holster it and wiggle it to stretch the holster out a smidge.

thread is not smooth and I would like to know if there is a remedy

If by thread you mean leather grain is not smooth, some melted beeswax can help some with this. Hard to apply once the holster is already made. And help SOME is the key takeaway. It won’t make it completely smooth. Leather grain has a mind if it’s own.
 
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Thanks to all who replied. This is how the problem was handled, the tagua holster was ordered for a Taurus G3c with a laser but did not fit at all but when I tried my SR9c it was very close so working with the advise from this site I wrapped the SR9c in one layer of old jean material and forced the gun down into the holster and 2 days later when I took it out and removed the material the gun comes out smoothly but still is not loose in the holster. Rather than buy another holster for the Taurus I decided to make one (for aiwb) and it came out rather well. After getting it made and sewn together I dampened with warm water the front side of the holster, wrapped the gun in 3 layers of walmart bag and left the gun firmly placed in the holster for 3 days until dry when I took the gun out of the holster removed the plastic everything fit "as if it had been made for it". Thanks again for all the help.
 
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