Thoughts on pistol brass canneluring -

3. Modify a Lee FCD to create a stab crimp.
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That is what I did, but it closes about 359 degrees and gives just one ring cannelure all the way around, not the individual stab marks seen on some foreign ammo and some crimped primers. Works fine, there is no setting back with hand effort.

I am also going by what Black Hills does instead of what the Internet says and putting on a noticeable crimp.
 
Question - have any of you dealt with seating or trying to crimp into a thicker than usual annealed brass jacket? Because that's why standard crimps aren't doing anything for me.

If some of you want to try your ideas on my JHP's message me your addresses and I'd be happy to send you ten rounds of my .40 S&W JHP's to play with.
 
Had problems with bullet setback in a .40 HP, which has an unusually stout recoil spring. These were factory power 155 plated bullets. Immediately stopped using any Rem brass, and segregated all the other .40 brass by brand. Bought Lee undersize die (for additional neck sizing step), general mouth expander and Redding comp seater so could seat bullets straight with min to no setback. Also use a very slight LFC, just to insure no flare left on case mouth. No more set back. Have a preference for the Win or Fed brass, but keep them segregated.

Have never tried canneluring brass, but have used corbin tool to cannelure bullets. Have noticed over the years that some manufactures actually crimp their case mouths into the bullets slightly for semi auto rounds. And it appears some manufacturers have started canneluring/crimping their semi auto hp bullets.
 
As I said earlier, I have no 40 S&W case on hand, but the others have their thickening tapers start at 0.8 calibers into the case. If the 40 S&W are also at 0.8 calibers, then you can't seat deeper than about 0.320" into the case before it will start the bulge in your image. So these bullets are too long for the COL you are using. The solution is to cut off the rim.

Using jacketed bullets on lead fouling irons the lead into the bore rather than removing it. Allan Jones reported seeing a number of bulged barrels result from this practice. Your best bet for lead fouling is a conventional cleaning.

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I'm annealing the 9mm pistol brass to soften it. This makes the case trimmer blade last longer and also helps ease the nose formation pressure needed in the swage press and the BTsniper die. I use a butane torch to bring the shell cases to a glowing orange and then let them air cool. Another consideration is that the projectile will need less energy to open on impact if the brass is softer.
 
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