Thought Chamfers lasted forever
- Thread starter cw308
- Start date
FrankenMauser
New member
Standard RCBS.
Plus two Lyman 'VLD' chamfer tools. (One hand-held, one in their case prep center.)
Plus two Lyman 'VLD' chamfer tools. (One hand-held, one in their case prep center.)
I also use the RCBS chamfering tool, same as yours. I've got my original one that I've had since I started reloading over 30 years ago (same as you), and still seems to work every bit as good as it always has. It says around the girth of it, "-Made for RCBS by L.E. Wilson- 17-45" and it still has the nice polished finish on it. When not in use, it rests in the little green plastic box RCBS used to use for most all their stuff. Nice tool, with the guiding stem inside the outside chamfering fins.
A couple of years ago, I bought a new RCBS case mouth chamfering tool that says on it, "RCBS 17 to 60 Cal." I bought it for exclusive use on my .45 cal. BPCR stuff (45/70, 45/90). The outside case chambering fins for .60 cal. work really good for the .45 case mouths when comparing using the Wilson made tool. Though I only load around 500 rounds for the 45/90 for a few matches in the summer, it's not overly hard on my fingers, so I can just stick to the old school tool. I can only imagine if a guy is loading a high volume amount of ammo a year, a tool such as the RCBS 3-way cutter might be in order.
www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Pro-3-Way-Cutter.aspx
A couple of years ago, I bought a new RCBS case mouth chamfering tool that says on it, "RCBS 17 to 60 Cal." I bought it for exclusive use on my .45 cal. BPCR stuff (45/70, 45/90). The outside case chambering fins for .60 cal. work really good for the .45 case mouths when comparing using the Wilson made tool. Though I only load around 500 rounds for the 45/90 for a few matches in the summer, it's not overly hard on my fingers, so I can just stick to the old school tool. I can only imagine if a guy is loading a high volume amount of ammo a year, a tool such as the RCBS 3-way cutter might be in order.
www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Pro-3-Way-Cutter.aspx
I prefer using 3-way cutters available on some trimmers. That way one step trims, chamfers and deburrs. Mine's a Forster. RCBS makes 3-ways for their trimmer and probably other brands do too. Big time saver for me.
I still use a Trim Mate, but that's reserved for Primer pocket work......military crimps, depth uniforming, and flash hole burr removal.
I still use a Trim Mate, but that's reserved for Primer pocket work......military crimps, depth uniforming, and flash hole burr removal.
FrankenMauser
New member
That's actually a drive stub, so you can chuck it in a drill and save your hands from at least some of the abuse.
I use a countersink, 1/2x60 degree, for IDs and a Lyman tool for the outside of case necks. Since I just deburr the OD, just touch the brass against the tool, mine still works after mebbe 15 years. I don't have any idea how old my countersinks are, but when I started removing primer crimps I just reached in my tool box and pulled one out, that was in '99 or so...
I saw these on another forum and think they would be perfect for handling cases with old fingers... https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Too...MI2aH0w9q93gIVx8DACh2kdAGlEAQYAyABEgKph_D_BwE
I saw these on another forum and think they would be perfect for handling cases with old fingers... https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Too...MI2aH0w9q93gIVx8DACh2kdAGlEAQYAyABEgKph_D_BwE
Thought Chamfers lasted forever
I would guess 30 plus years is about forever. I have several laying around including Midway, RCBS and I thing I had some which say something made by someone. Several years ago my brother got me a RCBS Case Prep kit and I never looked back.
Ron
I would guess 30 plus years is about forever. I have several laying around including Midway, RCBS and I thing I had some which say something made by someone. Several years ago my brother got me a RCBS Case Prep kit and I never looked back.
Ron
Thanks Guys for getting back so soon , I like the case prep unit but for sure your shooting much more then me . I'm more of a hands on guy for the amount of shooting I do . 30 308 and 50 45acp each week .not much to do on the 45 cases , speaking about 45acp , I was thinking of ordering the Redding Competition Seating die to align the bullet better , I'm sometimes getting a bulge on one side , not often but enough to bother me . The Comp die has a sleeve and hopefully will eliminate the problem . What's your thoughts ? Thanks Again.
Chris
Chris
I use the Giraud off the shoulder trimmer if possible, not with the 7.5 Swiss so went with the Trim it II for that one.
Chucked up in a drill, upside down and clamped in a vice with it locked on it's just like the Giraud motorized unit.
Trim, chamfer all in one operation. I can do 500 in under 30 minutes.
Chucked up in a drill, upside down and clamped in a vice with it locked on it's just like the Giraud motorized unit.
Trim, chamfer all in one operation. I can do 500 in under 30 minutes.
Cw308,
I've not tried the Redding Comp Dies for anything but rifle bullet seating, but I would expect they are good tools. Before you go there, though, look at the Lyman M die or their Multi-expander (handles all common pistol calibers plus allows through-expander powder dispensing). The little step they put in below the flare of the case mouth will let you set the bullet straight up in the case. A bullet that starts in straight tends to stay very straight during seating because it never contacts the seating ram on its angled interior sides, which is what tilts the bullet. That's all I've needed to clear the uneven seating angle with short ogive pistol bullets. It works very well with rifle bullets, too, though the Redding die edges it out by also aligning the case.
I've not tried the Redding Comp Dies for anything but rifle bullet seating, but I would expect they are good tools. Before you go there, though, look at the Lyman M die or their Multi-expander (handles all common pistol calibers plus allows through-expander powder dispensing). The little step they put in below the flare of the case mouth will let you set the bullet straight up in the case. A bullet that starts in straight tends to stay very straight during seating because it never contacts the seating ram on its angled interior sides, which is what tilts the bullet. That's all I've needed to clear the uneven seating angle with short ogive pistol bullets. It works very well with rifle bullets, too, though the Redding die edges it out by also aligning the case.
I've found that some soft metals, like brass, can wear on cutting tools almost as quickly as ferrous metals. Some have a tendency to abrade, rub on the tool without being clean cutting, and dull it. Cartridge brass is close to this action on steel, but high speed steel and carbide are not affected...
I thought chamfer/deburr tools lasted forever too.
Until I bought a new one after about 20 years with the old one, just for the heck of it. Wow, what a difference. Yes, they do dull.
BTW, pasta dies wear out too. And they just have dough pushing through them. Water has been known to wear down things too
Until I bought a new one after about 20 years with the old one, just for the heck of it. Wow, what a difference. Yes, they do dull.
BTW, pasta dies wear out too. And they just have dough pushing through them. Water has been known to wear down things too
Unclenick
As usual those diagrams are great . To cover all bases , the dies I have are the 45ACP Carbide 3 die taper crimp set . Well use the sizing die to size , the Lyman M expander die to expand and flare , Hornady sleeved die to seat without the crimp set and go back to the RCBS seating die to remove the flare . Seems to cover all bases , I don't mind changing dies to make perfect reloads .
Chris
As usual those diagrams are great . To cover all bases , the dies I have are the 45ACP Carbide 3 die taper crimp set . Well use the sizing die to size , the Lyman M expander die to expand and flare , Hornady sleeved die to seat without the crimp set and go back to the RCBS seating die to remove the flare . Seems to cover all bases , I don't mind changing dies to make perfect reloads .
Chris
I'd be very surprised if a steel chamfering/deburring tool dulled after even 30
I can not remember when I did not have aircraft countersinks; I do not know about stock removal and I know I have got them hot. When case forming I use the man tool (hacksaw) to trim cases because the hack saw last as long as tootsie rolls. With the pilot on the aircraft counter sink it is easy to guide the cutter through the top of the case and leave a bevel on on the inside of the case neck. And then there is the flair left on the outside of the neck, it seems like magic but when the case is lowered the flair snaps off. And then there is the back up plan, if none of this works there is always the file.
Point? The chamfer and or bevel at the end of the neck does not last long around here.
And then one day I used a bevel type tool for trimming after forming; it did not have a cutting surface, all it had was a bevel with a guide. After forming the case I ran the pilot into the case and used the bevel to flare the neck above the forming die. When I lowered the case the neck popped off at the flare at the top of the die. And then
I finished by annealing.
F. Guffey
I can not remember when I did not have aircraft countersinks; I do not know about stock removal and I know I have got them hot. When case forming I use the man tool (hacksaw) to trim cases because the hack saw last as long as tootsie rolls. With the pilot on the aircraft counter sink it is easy to guide the cutter through the top of the case and leave a bevel on on the inside of the case neck. And then there is the flair left on the outside of the neck, it seems like magic but when the case is lowered the flair snaps off. And then there is the back up plan, if none of this works there is always the file.
Point? The chamfer and or bevel at the end of the neck does not last long around here.
And then one day I used a bevel type tool for trimming after forming; it did not have a cutting surface, all it had was a bevel with a guide. After forming the case I ran the pilot into the case and used the bevel to flare the neck above the forming die. When I lowered the case the neck popped off at the flare at the top of the die. And then
I finished by annealing.F. Guffey
That reminds me, a few folks have been using very sharp flush mouth trim as-is. For example, folks using the Dillon trimmer or the WFT just leaving the cut square without chamfering and deburring. I find the sharp inside edge scrapes copper off bullets, but if you simply burnish the inside of the mouth, that stops, and the crimping die will burnish and blunt the outside of the case mouth. Most commercial cases, with exceptions like Lapua, are not chamfered coming out of the box, but rather are just dulled by tumbling and the commercial makers load them that way.
A burnishing tool recommended by Bart B. is an EZ-Out. I took one and polished the outside smooth, just to minimize friction removal of brass. It has a left-hand spiral thread, so when you chuck it in a drill it does an nice, non-grabbing burnishing of the inside edge. I even use is on chamfered case mouths to prevent copper scraping. Works just fine and doesn't mar the brass the way a smooth tapered cone can when spinning.
A burnishing tool recommended by Bart B. is an EZ-Out. I took one and polished the outside smooth, just to minimize friction removal of brass. It has a left-hand spiral thread, so when you chuck it in a drill it does an nice, non-grabbing burnishing of the inside edge. I even use is on chamfered case mouths to prevent copper scraping. Works just fine and doesn't mar the brass the way a smooth tapered cone can when spinning.
F.Guffey
I was surprised too . What I've been doing each shooting season , for me that's from end of April to whenever it gets colder then 50 , getting soft in my older years I guess , anyway I use 3 lots of 30 cases and rotate each range trip . I trim each firing which is more like a cleanup then a trim . I an preparing the next 90 cases for next season and the trim in the beginning is a real trim , I trim my 308 cases to 2.010 and keep them there . So it could be I'm not use to the feel of a real trim or my thumbs are getting weaker . The outside edge is the problem it just doesn't bevel off . I ordered a Hornady four pronged chamfer tool . I kind of go overboard prepping my brass being I'm only doing 30 each week , I'll chamfer inside and out and then with a lower caliber cleaning brush chucked in a drill press wrapped will 0000 steel wool to polish the inside and outer edge . I don't have anywhere near your background with machinery but try my best with what I have . Thanks for answering my post .
Chris
I was surprised too . What I've been doing each shooting season , for me that's from end of April to whenever it gets colder then 50 , getting soft in my older years I guess , anyway I use 3 lots of 30 cases and rotate each range trip . I trim each firing which is more like a cleanup then a trim . I an preparing the next 90 cases for next season and the trim in the beginning is a real trim , I trim my 308 cases to 2.010 and keep them there . So it could be I'm not use to the feel of a real trim or my thumbs are getting weaker . The outside edge is the problem it just doesn't bevel off . I ordered a Hornady four pronged chamfer tool . I kind of go overboard prepping my brass being I'm only doing 30 each week , I'll chamfer inside and out and then with a lower caliber cleaning brush chucked in a drill press wrapped will 0000 steel wool to polish the inside and outer edge . I don't have anywhere near your background with machinery but try my best with what I have . Thanks for answering my post .
Chris
Unclenick
I ordered the Lyman new dimension expander M die and the Hornady sleeved seating die . Like I posted before , using the RCBS Carbide taper die set of three worked well but every once an awhile one would bulge at the base of the bullet on the case , functioned well but just didn't like it . Will see if this change eliminates the problem .
I ordered the Lyman new dimension expander M die and the Hornady sleeved seating die . Like I posted before , using the RCBS Carbide taper die set of three worked well but every once an awhile one would bulge at the base of the bullet on the case , functioned well but just didn't like it . Will see if this change eliminates the problem .