Thinking of starting into c&b
- Thread starter PhilTheClimber
- Start date
Doc Hoy said:
That's probably me Doc since I tend to call anything that will shoot a gun (there's less typing that way!
)Looking up the definition of the word gun I see that it includes these:
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/gun
and
I'll probably end up sticking to my guns & verbiage too!
Last edited:
LeadZinger
New member
You have already gotten a lot of good information here. I can only add my own experience with getting started a couple of years ago.
First I had to decide if I wanted historically accurate revolvers or just something with which to shoot BP. Being a history buff I chose historical. The Uberti line tends to be more historically accurate, produces a quality modern product and is usually more expensive. I chose a '51 Navy Colt, steel framed, 36 cal., for my first, mainly for its looks and fact that it was in production longer than any other revolver during the percusssion era.
If you think you might want to use a conversion cylinder at some point then definetly go with a steel framed 44 cal, preferably the Remington New Army for the reason already given. This is the cheapest way, but only slightly, of shooting cartridge in a BP pistol. Keep in mind that you are limited to black powder loads and they can be both difficult and expensive to find, unless you do reloading. An alternative is buy another revolver, a cartridge factory conversion which Colt and Remington offered in the 1870's. Uberti and Pietta make them also. The advantage is that they will actually handle modern factory made ammunition. Stick with 38 Spl or 44 Spl if you go this route, although 45 cal is available. See how easy it is to start adding to your collection?
At the end of a year, if you can count your BP inventory on one hand then please do a post telling the rest of us how you avoided the addiction. It would save us all a lot of money.
First I had to decide if I wanted historically accurate revolvers or just something with which to shoot BP. Being a history buff I chose historical. The Uberti line tends to be more historically accurate, produces a quality modern product and is usually more expensive. I chose a '51 Navy Colt, steel framed, 36 cal., for my first, mainly for its looks and fact that it was in production longer than any other revolver during the percusssion era.
If you think you might want to use a conversion cylinder at some point then definetly go with a steel framed 44 cal, preferably the Remington New Army for the reason already given. This is the cheapest way, but only slightly, of shooting cartridge in a BP pistol. Keep in mind that you are limited to black powder loads and they can be both difficult and expensive to find, unless you do reloading. An alternative is buy another revolver, a cartridge factory conversion which Colt and Remington offered in the 1870's. Uberti and Pietta make them also. The advantage is that they will actually handle modern factory made ammunition. Stick with 38 Spl or 44 Spl if you go this route, although 45 cal is available. See how easy it is to start adding to your collection?
At the end of a year, if you can count your BP inventory on one hand then please do a post telling the rest of us how you avoided the addiction. It would save us all a lot of money.
PhilTheClimber
Inactive
I'll remember to call'em guns next time too
What about cimarron firearms, are they good quality?
Also, someone mentioned before about having to disassemble an 1851 w/ conversion cylinder to reload, where as this isn't the case with an 1858. Could someone point me in the direction to learn more about this?
What about cimarron firearms, are they good quality?
Also, someone mentioned before about having to disassemble an 1851 w/ conversion cylinder to reload, where as this isn't the case with an 1858. Could someone point me in the direction to learn more about this?
Fingers McGee
New member
If you are shooting in a NCOWS/CAS match where you don't have a table/shelf/bench:
Colts: Push out or remove the wedge, remove barrel, remove cylinder. You now have 3 (or maybe 4) pieces to hold while reloading the cylinder. (Frame, cylinder, barrel, and maybe wedge if it wasnt retained in the barrel)
Remington, lower loading lever, pull base pin, remove cylinder. You now only have 2 pieces to hold on to while reloading the cylinder (frame & Cylinder).
Of course, if you are just shooting for fun, off a bench, it really doesn't matter cause you can set the pieces on the bench and take your sweet time doing it.
Colts: Push out or remove the wedge, remove barrel, remove cylinder. You now have 3 (or maybe 4) pieces to hold while reloading the cylinder. (Frame, cylinder, barrel, and maybe wedge if it wasnt retained in the barrel)
Remington, lower loading lever, pull base pin, remove cylinder. You now only have 2 pieces to hold on to while reloading the cylinder (frame & Cylinder).
Of course, if you are just shooting for fun, off a bench, it really doesn't matter cause you can set the pieces on the bench and take your sweet time doing it.
LeadZinger
New member
Cimarron imports from Uberti and can be pricey. It may be just a marketing ploy but they claim to get preferential treatment from Uberti as to the quality of product shipped to them. My '51 Navy Colt is marked Cimarron but I did not buy it from them. Sometimes their dealers offer lower prices on the Uberti's from Cimarron than they do themselves. Buffalo Arms is one such that beats the Cimarron price on revolvers obtained from them. Nice people to deal with to boot. The Uberti website used to list their distributors and dealers but many don't actually keep any inventory, they order from Cimarron or Stoeger here in the US so price remains high. Buffalo Arms actually stocks and inventory and there are others.
As I said, and as Fingers described, breaking down a C & B to deal with loading a conversion cylinder, even a Remington, can be as much trouble as loading powder & ball plus cap. A factory conversion eliminates that, but does require the use of an FFL to obtain one.
As I said, and as Fingers described, breaking down a C & B to deal with loading a conversion cylinder, even a Remington, can be as much trouble as loading powder & ball plus cap. A factory conversion eliminates that, but does require the use of an FFL to obtain one.